- Maintainence of the GT drivetrain is identical to the CloneVX
- Drivetrain comparison of the VX and GT in the Photos Section.
akt22, on 13 April 2012 - 10:05 AM, said:
Just a heads up on future gt users buying NIB from the factory.
There have been some reports on firing/veolicity issues as a result of the break in period.
If your velocity decreases after leaving it aired up, just slowly increase the hpr until it returns to normal. Eventually as it breaks in, it won't become an issue anymore.
That said, I haven't experienced anything like it right now.
akt22, on 04 August 2011 - 05:37 PM, said:
How to maintain you clone/clone VX drivetrain
A lot of people think clones are extremely high maintainence markers that are difficult to service. That can't be further from the truth. There are only a few o-rings that you have to maintain and you don't have to constantly lube them after day's worth of play. Macdev recommends you maintain it after 10,000 shots, which is like 5 cases worth of paint.
A few things to know before we start:
1. READ YOUR MANUAL
- A portion of the problems you encounter can be solved by looking at.it. Also PAY
attention to the drivetrain diagram. It shows the exact order of the parts to put it back together as well as how those parts should look when putting it back. If you can't put it back, check the diagram to make sure.
2. DO NOT OVERLUBE THE DRIVETRAIN
- This is probably where most people go wrong. There are 2 reasons why you don't want to overlube: one, it's extra work you don't need to do and two, it affects the drivetrain performance. There are some places you could lube more, which I'll mention later, but the general rule of thumb is to make sure what you lube looks wet. If you can see extra lube, you know you've gone too far.
So without further ado, let's begin.
This is your drivetrain:
Mines is the VX drivetrain, which is the latest version at this time. Earlier versions might look different but the essential oring components are still the same.
These are the parts that have the important orings for service.
They are from top to bottom, left to right: Bolt Keg, Bolt, Spacer, Valve, Powertube. Again forgive the quality but I couldn't get the right lighting.
Bolt Keg Orings
See that oring on the inside of the bolt keg? That's the only oring you should worry about maintaining. It's a standard size 17 BN70 oring that you can get at most oring places like oringmonkey. If you're leaking in the front, this is probably the cause. Don't worry about the other orings as they are immobile; they will rarely wear out unless your lucky, or unlucky in this case. Macdev also recommends you slightly lube the inside of the bolt keg as well.
Basically the most important oring is the one smack dab in the center of the bolt. It's called the bolt switch oring and is 16 BN70 standard size. If your having leaks near the solenoid this is probably the main culprit. This along with the orings from the valve and powertube will cause like 90% of the problems with the drivetrain, so make sure you keep a good eye on it. Macdev also mentions to lube the bolt in addition to the oring.
There are only 2 orings on the spacer. Both are 17 BN70 and both require lubrication from time to time. I've heard someone had inconsistant velocity drops during high rates of fire because they lack one of these orings, so it would be best not to ignore them.
Ok now we're going to the heart of the matter. In the bolt section, I mentioned 3 things that cause 90% of the problems: the bolt switch oring, valve and powertube. Of those 3, a good portion of that 90% will come from something happening to the valve, especially the middle oring. If you see any wear in that middle oring or the other rings: REPLACE THEM IMMEDIATELY. Your efficiency is mostly tied to those orings and they tend to receive most of the wear and tear. These orings wearing and tearing are one of the main reasons why there are so many versions of the clone; Macdev had to update the valve as well as the valve keg because of the frequency these orings were wearing out. While the VX drive solved that from happening too frequently, those orings will still wear out quicker than most in the drivetrain. PAY ATTENTION TO THEM. If you ever have a problem with performance, this is the first place I'd check. If you ever want to use more lube in a macdev marker, this would be the place to start. The orings in the middle and the side of the valve toward the spacer are 17X1 BN70 metric orings and the oring on the side closer to the powertube is a 15X1 BN70 metric as well. Macdev also recommends you lube the inside of both the valve and valve keg as well.
The second most cause of problems next to the valve. If the valve is ok and you still have problems or leaks, this is the next place to check. The reason is that most of the air passes through the powertube, which causes it to blew away most of the lube on the rings and wearing them out quickly. Because of how air constaintly passes through you want to lube the rings as heavily as the valve, maybe even moreso. Again if your problems are not caused by the valve, it's probably this instead. The 2 orings you have to lube are the mid oring, which is a 10X1 BN70 metric oring and the tip oring, which is 11 BN70 standard size. The tip oring is the one that get's dry the most, so concentrate most of the lubing efforts into that oring.
Once you've done that,congratulations as you have maintained your drivetrain. Be sure to put it back and get ready to mow some people at the field.
dhunt91, on 05 August 2011 - 02:36 PM, said:
This post has been edited by Hebiki: 17 April 2012 - 12:29 AM