Odyssey RPM Overhaul A blast from the past that I'm very excited about!
Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:20 PM
Maybe I'll make a pillow bolt for it too, I'd like to, but that would be much later in the build
So far, I took the crappy brass barb out from under the body and plugged the hole with a hex screw
That barb used to take the HPR pressure to drive the ram, but now I'm rerouting the plumbing for the LPR using the stock lower tube cap
Also got the Vertical ASA to fit flush with the bottom of the RPM
Detent holes have also been enlarged and now fit the steel bearings I have
Got the plug tapped and ready to go!
Got the magnet installed, and I'l loving the way the trigger feels besides its horrible side to side slop
Also I found that the closest Spyder trigger that could work would be the VS Series triggers, but they are too long and the stop screw is a bit too high up to use with this marker. If I ever feel like going all out (which maybe soon since I like the way the CP triggers feel), I may pickup a CP trigger and mod it to work with the RPM.
And with everything assembled, she actually looks pretty nice if I do say so myself
J&J Edge Elite Barrel Kit (fits with the LPR in place!)
Upgrade Bolt (or so the interweb says?)
Modded for Ball Bearing Detents
LPR Mod with WGP Bullet LPR
Dye Hyper2 Reg
Magnetic Trigger Return
Soon I'll go out and get some air to try her out and hopefully get her tuned
Posted 20 May 2012 - 10:48 AM
I eventually want to get the CP trigger for it, but I'll have to wait for payday (I start my summer job tomorrow)
And if I don't somehow mod the bolt to pillow bolt style, than I'll radius the inner edge since the bolt is just completely flat on the front
Posted 30 June 2012 - 09:23 PM
So when trying to install the CP trigger for a test fit, I came across a few problems.
The CP VS/Azodin trigger have an area in front of the travel adjustment screw that will not let it sit in the frame
Remove the nub
The stock trigger was very wide, and the width of the trigger itself prevented it from going into the slot cut into the trigger frame where the micoswitch is mounted. The CP trigger is much thinner, and is actually just the right width to get wedged into the slot.
Take a small file to the frame and remove metal
CP Trigger test fit with supplied screws and stuff
Will be getting conical screws to mount this trigger soon, and the frame has been tapped and is ready to go
You might be able to see that the trigger stop screw does not contact anything and is basically unusable as it is.
My easy fix will be to screw a nut onto the stop screw!
Posted 30 June 2012 - 11:16 PM
I'll have to tinker with them some more, but I do like them, especially since they make a fun project that is very cheap to get started (i.e. CP trigger costs about as much as the marker itself)
Posted 11 July 2012 - 06:49 PM
If you can see, I actually removed the trigger stop set screw! The trigger is long enough to actually hit the bottom of the trigger frame, but won't get stuck, so I think that's good enough
Also have the REX Type-R valve in there (nylon seal for the valve pin), and I just need one more thing for the pillow bolt modification and to ramp the bolt inlet.
The bolt inlet is surprisingly strange. It's recessed all the way back where the bolt pin hole is, so there's a gap that the air could potentially travel backwards in. Will be fixing that as soon as I get the pillow bolt mod all sorted out!
This post has been edited by TheAznInvazn: 11 July 2012 - 06:51 PM