The Ultimate Vibe/SP1 Troubleshooter All your problems solved!
#41
Posted 28 June 2011 - 05:54 PM
Glad you got your marker up and working shockwave!
#42
Posted 05 July 2011 - 12:08 PM
These are very simple guns to work on. Usually about 98% of the problems are batteries. Just keep it cleaned and lubed and no problems.
Later,
Blackrain:)
This post has been edited by blackrain: 22 July 2012 - 05:25 PM
#43
Posted 07 July 2011 - 08:37 PM
If you have the time take a look at my techt bolt thread for the vibe/sp-1/g1/envy/ionxe/extcy. I compare dwell values and pressure with and without the bolt. Maybe you can add some knowledge in there with the orange bolt:
http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=143725
This post has been edited by Danny D: 07 July 2011 - 08:38 PM
#44
Posted 10 July 2011 - 12:51 AM
Later,
Blackrain:)
#45
Posted 10 July 2011 - 10:43 PM
Stock board only that has been reflashed or comes with these modes:
1..Disconnect battery
2..Hold trigger while Re-connecting battery.
led will flash every time this is done..
single flash =
Select fire mode (single shot,three shot burst,full auto)Tapping the power button while the marker is powered on cycles through the firing modes, each indicated by the rate at which the power LED blinks.
double flash =
PSP mode..The marker will fire one shot per trigger pull until the trigger is pulled 3 or more times rapidly in quick succession, at which point it will fire additional shots per trigger pull up to a maximum of 10 shots per second. If the trigger is inactive for a brief time, the marker will revert to the
beginning of the sequence, firing one shot per trigger pull
triple flash =
Locked Semi-Automatic mode.. one shot per trigger pull, and cannot
be changed without using tools to open the grip.
four flashes =
Billy ball ..limited semi auto fire rate, not allowing players to shoot more then once every two seconds.. (help encourage movement and not to rely on the spray and pray method so much)
also to toggle between HPA use and Co2 use for the sp1 you can disconnect the battery,this time pressing the power button while re connecting the battery again.. one flash is Co2 two flashes is Hpa.
Later,
Blackrain:)
#46
Posted 23 July 2011 - 10:25 PM
I just got a SP1 from ebay. I fiddled around the velocity screw a bit and then I plugged in my CO2 tank and next thing I know I hear a "pop" and the noid just blew up... The gun is on the way to GOG now.
My question is how do I know how much pressure is going into the reg using CO2 without an inline tester. Or is there a way to turn up the velocity as close to limit as possible without destroy the noid?
I know you guys will tell me to go HPA but I don't have that kind of money and the friends I play with have their own CO2 tank.
I'd appreciate any answers!
#47
Posted 01 November 2011 - 07:07 PM
Vincent M, on 23 July 2011 - 10:25 PM, said:
I just got a SP1 from ebay. I fiddled around the velocity screw a bit and then I plugged in my CO2 tank and next thing I know I hear a "pop" and the noid just blew up... The gun is on the way to GOG now.
My question is how do I know how much pressure is going into the reg using CO2 without an inline tester. Or is there a way to turn up the velocity as close to limit as possible without destroy the noid?
I know you guys will tell me to go HPA but I don't have that kind of money and the friends I play with have their own CO2 tank.
I'd appreciate any answers!
HPA isn't that expensive and is better for the gun.
If your talking outlaw/farmball and they have a fill station it's differant
back Up A5 72/30 Pure energy JJ custom barrel
We Killed Humans FOR WE ARE BORG!!!!! RIP In the great PB field in the sky man YOU will BE MISSED!!
#49
Posted 31 December 2011 - 11:46 AM
#50
Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:33 PM
Calvayne, on 31 December 2011 - 11:46 AM, said:
The safety relief valve is doing one of two things:
1. Its doing its job protecting the intermals. The piston seals will need to be inspected. Especially the cup seal on it for wear, dirt or grime. It can be flipped to use the other side.
2. The relief valve is faulty, and will need inspection and cleaning of the 006 o-ring at the top of the reg after removing the safety relief assembly with an allen key.
A new reg is not needed. All parts are servicable and will be cheaper and of equal or greater quality than any other regulator. In this case you might just need to clean, or flip the cup seal, or replace the 006 o-ring. All $0-$1 fixes.
#51
Posted 11 February 2012 - 09:40 PM
Any tips? In noob talk
#52
Posted 19 February 2012 - 02:29 PM
What is the piece called and can you buy it separately? I'll post pics in a bit
#53
Posted 19 February 2012 - 04:26 PM
The trigger when pressed pushes against a microswitch. It sort of looks like this, but is attached to the board:

The "metal peice" or the spring steel lever used to trip the switch is good for millions of cycles. It should still be there. If it is not and somehow got sheared off from misuse (first time I heard this happening) you will need to have the whole microswitch replaced.
You will need to find out the part number, buy the part from an electronics supply place and have it soldered in place. If you are good with this the process can happen easily and cheaply, especially if you can acquire the part and solder yourself. Otherwise, I would call gog and ask for a quote for repair - say the lever fell off. They may be able to do it for free, but seeing that your warantee is up, dont count on it. If the repair cost too much you may just want to get a blackheart board.
If the metal lever to the microswitch is still there and operating, then there might be an obstruction when attaching the grip frame preventing the trigger from depressing the microswitch.
#54
Posted 20 February 2012 - 12:50 AM

Picture of the trigger:

I aired it up (there were leaks coming from steel line, I'll replace it soon with all new things) and I touched the "black box" with that thin piece of metal and it definitely shot. I'm just wondering now is there anything that is inbetween the trigger and that metal strip? It seems when I put it together that the trigger doesn't travel far enough to hit the switch
Thanks again Danny for your help and quick replies!
#55
Posted 20 February 2012 - 01:22 AM
If you look at my picture, you can see that lever was bent. So even when the trigger would hit it, it wouldn't trip the switch laying under it. Just straightened it out and "voila."
#56
Posted 20 February 2012 - 04:57 PM
I must say, you are lucky the lever didnt break off. Spring steel doesnt usually bend well and most of the time shears off instead of bending.
Thanks for posting alpha Q!
#57
Posted 23 February 2012 - 10:53 PM
I have a Gog Extcy that's giving me fits. I'm using C02 and the gun will not shoot at all. It turns on fine, but even if I put it into the mode where the eyes ignore whether or not a ball is in the chamber, I can't get anything out of it. It acknowledges every trigger pull by blinking, but it does not shoot any air out of the gun. Here's what I've tried so far:
changed batteries
tried different c02 tanks - all are full
tried setting the trigger to a different position
tried adjusting the velocity
reset the board to factory settings
changed the dwell to 30, 33, and tried 40
I'm really at a loss and the person I bought it from has great feedback and told me it worked perfectly.
Any help would be tremendously appreciated. I'm bummed right now.
Also, here is a video I took of it.
#58
Posted 24 February 2012 - 02:23 PM
#59
Posted 24 February 2012 - 03:27 PM
alpha Q, on 24 February 2012 - 02:23 PM, said:
I don't believe there is. I took out the bolt and air shoots out of there when I take it out so I'm pretty sure that air is getting to every part that it needs to get to.
#60
Posted 24 February 2012 - 05:47 PM

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