1. Leaking air.
2. Gun not firing
3. Parts missing
4. Mods - Trigger sticking? look here
1. Leaking Air/puffing noises
If the vibe is leaking somewhere in the gun locate the source of the leak by ear. First make sure the bolt, ASA, and reg are screwed in correctly. Then if the leak persists, easier detection can be had by taking off the grip frame.
If the leak is coming from the reg:
-your pressure may be set too low, and you may need to increase the velocity (Do NOT do this if you know your gun was set at a high enough pressure before the leak, you may blow a soloniod) Start with the reg at the lowest setting and increase slowly.
-the oring from the asa is damaged, replace it
-CO2 is being vented from your gun in the topmost reg vent. Use hpa or a remote line to prevent liquid co2 from entering
-The internals of the reg need servicing or replacement (ive had a loud trumpet noise come out of mine before and the reg seat needed to be replaced as it was sheared). This can be easily fixed. If the air is coming from the topmost of the 3 vents on the side of the reg nearest to the marker body, replace the 006 size o-ring in the overpressure vent valve. If its coming from the middle hole, it can be the piston o-ring, the lower 006 size piston o-rng or the reg seat. 10 cent fxes. If its not coming from the vents, and from the swivel, replace the swivel o-rings.
If the leak is coming from the bolt (out the breach)
-degass and reset the bolt to the rear position. sometimes initial pressurization does not set the bolt back and air leaks
-make sure the board is set to the right dwell setting (co2 vs hpa)
-If you have another bolt replace it to see if the bolt is the actual problem. If it is, you may need to replace some orings. check for damage, lube, and/or replace. The active orings that move and are subject to more wear are the inside of the bolt stop the two in the front and the small one in the rear.
-Before you replace o-rings make SURE thee reg pressure and tank pressure is reading right. 800+psi for tank, 120-180psi for reg. Get a pressure tester if possible. Also see where the air is leaking from on the bolt. Is it leaking from the bolt faace or around the bolt? Use your finger to plug the bolt face and feel. If its coming from inside, the bolt sail o-ring or the inner bolt stop o-rng is to blame. If its coming from the outside, the rear breech o-ring is to blame.
-if the bolt is stuck forward and leaking it may be the bolt sail o-ring, the rear internal breech o-ring or ay be a problem with the banjos/forward line. Check the line first leading from the noid to the front banjo.
If the leak is soming from around the board:
-Tighten up the banjo bolts! This is the prime cause of a leak! Banjo bolts get loose after a while.
-If air still comes out of the banjo bolts, it may be an oring is damaged inside the one thats leaking. Replace.
-If air is coming out of the hoses, replace the hose.
Leak from the asa: replace tank oring
For info on parts name and function see solenoid pic below. More solenoids are damaged by the user trying to repair it than mechanical faliure. DO NOT overtighten solenoid screws. Rely on the clips and tighten screws till snug, NOT tight.
*If the air comes out of the solonoid exaust port WHEN FIRING, AND the gun fails to fire correctly, do the following (air should be coming out of the exaust port durring firing, but it may not fire, or it may leak excessively with a low velocity, or puff out the barrel)
-replace the battery with a fresh ALKALINE 9v. Do NOT use carbon zinc 9v batteries (cheaper $$). They do not have enough current to run the solonoid.
- make sure the dwell setting is set to the correct air type (co2 vs hpa)
-Make sure your reg is not too low - DO NOT INCREASE pressure if you know it was set at the right level before the leak!!!! You may do more damage. If you have an inline pressure tester that would be ideal. Keep under 200psi, and above 100psi.
-Check the nub on the armature for dirt and damage. As well as the tiny o-ring on the inside of the soloniod.
- If using a deadlywinds hollowpoint bolt, it may be the bolt sail o-ring. Clean and lube, if it still doesnt work, replace the o-ring: Info by UV Halo
- the solenoid may need replacing
*If the air is coming from around the base of the solenoid, replace the o-ring there with a fresh 015/90.
*If the soleniod is leaking CONSTANTLY from the exaust port do the following:
-check the armature for damage. Flip over the armature, clean it if its dirty with a qtip (make sure no fibers are left), also clean the inside of the cap near the exaust port, center the coin in the top of the soloniod, then put the cap on it, again making sure the coin doesnt get off centered/unseated. Make sure no space is in between the cap and the bottom of the soloniod when screwing it back in. Air her up, and your good to go.
If it still leaks after that, you can try flipping the coin once more and making sure its centered. you will have to get a new coin for the noid (or new rubber things). If thats the case, i would try modding the current coin you have before you get a new one. Try putting some teflon tape on the nub that faces the top, or put a thin layer of hot glue or something as rubbery. Again, this is a last ditch effort in case you NEED to rreplace the coin/noid.
2. Gun is not firing
If the gun is not firing:
-Make sure you have a FRESH ALKALINE 9v. NO CARBON ZINC!!!!! ALKALINE ONLY!!!!
-Make sure the 9v wire is not pinched or damaged
-make sure no paint water, dirt or oil is on the board
-Make sure its turned ON
-make sure your dwell setting is on the right air source (hpa vs CO2)
-make sure your gun is lubed and clean
-check for leaks
-with no air in the gun, on full auto, check if the solonoid is operating (not the beeps, see if the solonoid "clicks")
- if it doesnt, unscrew the solonoid, undo the clips, and see the pins on the bottom. there may be an intermittent connection. , remove the two screws and clips. on the bottom you will see two pins and brass holes where they go in. Strip a wire, get a thin - less then hair thickness sliver of metal wire, NOT INSULATION. Put a peice of rasor thin wire (a fragment) in each hole to make sure there is a connection between the pins and the holes.
-solonoid or board may need to be replaced if above has been solved and the board does not turn on or function.
For blackheart users!
-If your eyes are malfunctioning, it will most likely be the recieving diode thats taken the shitter, OR the harness wire has been pinched and severly damaged. First make sure eyes are on on the board setting. If they dont work its the diode (detector, NOT EMITTER, unless you dont see light)
-for the diode, you can easily get one off a halo, or from an electronics store. They are standerd detector diodes. $1-2. Just solder in place. Alternitavely you can get a new harness altogether. Used on this site - $5-10. Can use ion ones!
- for the wire harness ion ones will work, not sure if others will work, but you may be able to repair the harness you have...
3. Parts List
Here is a list of all the o-rings you will need:
006 - banjo bolt (base of bolt contacting breech), Regulator: Relief valve oring (top)
008 - Regulator: Spring platform o-ring
010 - bolt tail o-ring (moving 010/70), Regulator: Relief valve (bottom)
014 - inside of the bolt stop (moving 014/70) Regulator: Spring platform o-ring (outer), Reg swivel (2x), Reg piston (moving -014/70)
015 - bolt bumper o-ring(static)/ regulator/tank
016 - bolt sail o-ring (moving - 016/70)
017 - Breach o-rings, maybe outside bolt stop and 2 back cap
018 - maybe outside bolt stop and 2 back cap o-rings
022 - rear of the back cap.
1x3mm - banjo bolts (head of the bolt)
1x4mm - reg? Possibly the O-ring on the adjuster on the reg, but theres no way of getting to it. Dont know where else this size goes.
I suggest you get a set of all of these o-rings. You may need more than one. For parts which are moving you will need a durometer of 70. All others are static o-rings and will need 90.
Not really a mod, but just loosen the top handgrip screw a 1/4 turn and it should stop sticking. Either that, or clean your trigger from all the gunk over the years.
Hand tightened feedneck mod: Get a 10-32 screw(bolt) 1.2-1.5" long, a wingnut, a spacer, and the appropriate nut and put in that order onto the feedneck. Now it can be hand tightened without tools.
This post has been edited by Danny D: 06 June 2012 - 04:54 PM