[Teacher09]

Danny D, on 24 February 2012 - 05:47 PM, said:

Typical Battery Issue. Replace with either duracel or energizer. NO SUBSTITUTES.

Danny was right - stuck a Duracell in there and it's humming Thank you sir!

[drs386]

Hey man i'd love your help

My SP1 has a blackheart; and for some reason it won't fire when the eyes are on. I can stick my finger down into the eye zone and see on the button that it sees my finger but it still won't fire. The minute I turn the eyes off (red button) it will still NOT fire in semi auto. It makes little puff noises, and the bolt moves back and forth but no balls come out. I switched to 3 shot burst, and it kept doing 2 little puffs and then a loud bang followed by a paintball coming out. I know that can't be right because SP1's are quiet (i've owned one before but just not with black heart) Now, in full auto it will fire but it acts like its chopping, even though its not; the entire gun is clean and i know my hopper can keep up with it. It's almost like the bolt does a bunch of little shots and then finally gets one strong enough to launch a ball. PLEASE i need help i love this gun but am so lost on what to do.

Appreciate it!

-Daniel

[Danny D]

Hey Daniel,

Sounds like a battery issue to me. The fact that with the eyes on, the marker does nothing tells me that the marker is starved for power. When you turn the eyes off its struggling, which means its getting more power, but still not enough.

I would replace with a fresh duracell or energizer. NO SUBSTITUTES!

This is all assuming you havent changed anything major since it was last working (dwell, reg pressure) and the tank is above 800psi.

Your welcome Teacher09, glad I could help.

[alpha Q]

just a quick question. is an ion trigger cross compatible with the vibe??

I'm assuming no, but just want confirmation

[ChefTech]

Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....

This post has been edited by ChefTech: 06 June 2012 - 03:32 PM

[Danny D]

alpha Q, on 24 May 2012 - 11:04 PM, said:

just a quick question. is an ion trigger cross compatible with the vibe??

I'm assuming no, but just want confirmation

No it is not. The ion has the microswitch in the grip, the vibe has it on the top. They require different triggers.

[Danny D]

ChefTech, on 06 June 2012 - 01:21 PM, said:

Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....

First off - HOW DID YOU FRY THE BOARD> just curious. Those boards are waterproof, and can handle just about any battery load.

As for your issue. If the air is coming from the solenoid, then the solenoid is your issue. Although quickly check your qev /front banjo and line for leaks.

Seems like the solenoid armature was not seated properly. Just needed a simple flip and reseat. But upon reinstallation you screwed the noid screws too tight and cracked the housing.

The noid likes a snug fit for the screws. Not tight and not loose. Just snug. You overtighten and you bring the housing too much over the oring and cracking is prone to happen. Too loose, and the clips on the side wont snap in place. The screws are simply backup for those clips. The screws should not be doing the heavy work, which is why snug not tight is best.

As for solutions. You have 3 options:
1. Repair the housing if the crack isnt bad enough. Use epoxy and make sure the exhaust hole and area around it are untouched. The armature relies on a smooth flat surface on the inside to seal air.
2. Get a replacment housing from GOG. whole solenoid costs $30. Ask for more specific parts if possible. Maybe you can get a price break that way.
3. Get a blackheart board for $50

[ChefTech]

Danny D, on 06 June 2012 - 04:46 PM, said:

ChefTech, on 06 June 2012 - 01:21 PM, said:

Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....

First off - HOW DID YOU FRY THE BOARD> just curious. Those boards are waterproof, and can handle just about any battery load. Seems you really should only use approved lube!

As for your issue. If the air is coming from the solenoid, then the solenoid is your issue. Although quickly check your qev /front banjo and line for leaks.

Seems like the solenoid armature was not seated properly. Just needed a simple flip and reseat. But upon reinstallation you screwed the noid screws too tight and cracked the housing. This is exactly what I did, heard it crack, but didn't realize until later it was broken. I am going to try the epoxy fix first.

The noid likes a snug fit for the screws. Not tight and not loose. Just snug. You overtighten and you bring the housing too much over the oring and cracking is prone to happen. Too loose, and the clips on the side wont snap in place. The screws are simply backup for those clips. The screws should not be doing the heavy work, which is why snug not tight is best.

As for solutions. You have 3 options:
1. Repair the housing if the crack isnt bad enough. Use epoxy and make sure the exhaust hole and area around it are untouched. The armature relies on a smooth flat surface on the inside to seal air. Going to try this first
2. Get a replacment housing from GOG. whole solenoid costs $30. Ask for more specific parts if possible. Maybe you can get a price break that way. Specific part is 22.50 plus 5.35 shipping
3. Get a blackheart board for $50

I did contact GOG and they have been extremely helpful and quick to reply (same experience I had last year when I fried the board)

I will let you know how the epoxy goes.

[ChefTech]

The epoxy fix seems to have worked (stopped farting), but there is still a big leak. What should I be checking now?

[Lucky7s15]

hello, i also have a question, i understand that the valve has a pressure release valve, and i was working on a friends sp1 that he got off of ebay, after shooting a few shots it will sometimes go "puff.. puff.. puff" usually about 3 times or so, is this normal? we ARE using C02 and i have not put a remote line on it yet, so i was thinking that may be the cause.

[Danny D]

PM'd you back. Remember everyone - pm me as I dont check this thread often.

Get the remote line, it will increase your efficiency with co-2 as it gets a chance to warm up.

1. Make sure your dwell is set to co-2

2. Replace battery with Duracell or energizer. No substitutes.

[Lucky7s15]

Danny D, on 12 February 2013 - 04:43 PM, said:

PM'd you back. Remember everyone - pm me as I dont check this thread often.

Get the remote line, it will increase your efficiency with co-2 as it gets a chance to warm up.

1. Make sure your dwell is set to co-2

2. Replace battery with Duracell or energizer. No substitutes.

the leak is in the area at the top end of the reg (close to barrel), I have already cleaned it etc, it shoots great but sometimes after a few shots it makes the puff noise a few times which really does sound like it is relieving pressure. I checked the dwell right away and it is set to c02 so we plan to put a remote line on it right away anyway, thanks!

[bluemoogle]

Hi Danny, excellent guide here!

I tried your troubleshooting steps, but I'm still having trouble with my SP1 venting from the exhaust hole. I have a 2nd SP1, changed everything, and narrowed it down to the board.

Is there anyway to reset the board to factory defaults?


Thanks,

BM

[Danny D]

Thanks for Pm'ing me.
I will need more info. It is normal for the board to vent via exhaust. The problem comes when you cant fire full shots (vents heavily when fired), OR it constantly vents from the exhaust.

The board CANNOT constantly open the exhaust. It takes too much power to run the noid for that long, and the programming wont allow it. So factory default wont help unless its a blackheart and the dwell is set too low (vents heavily only when fired).

So let me know if its a contant leak or when fired.