Page 1 of 1
AKP not workin
#1
Posted 10 March 2010 - 02:53 PM
So yeah pretty much that i have no idea why its not working... each time i try to chrono it seems to chop paint shooting at like 425...originally i changed the spring out with a spyder spring and it was just not working at all...pretty much the same issue...now i changed it back to the original one and its still chopping...
any thoughts?
any thoughts?

Setup:Etek 3 LT,68/45 ninja,rotor,dye i4
~.:Team KaSL:.~
Field: Boston Paintball Indoor
Xbox live Gamertag: PeterxEast
#2
Posted 10 March 2010 - 03:05 PM
murk_da_mask, on 10 March 2010 - 02:53 PM, said:
So yeah pretty much that i have no idea why its not working... each time i try to chrono it seems to chop paint shooting at like 425...originally i changed the spring out with a spyder spring and it was just not working at all...pretty much the same issue...now i changed it back to the original one and its still chopping...
any thoughts?
any thoughts?
I assume by chop you mean barrel break, or it is just blown away by the high velocity. Because being a pump, you shouldnt be getting chops.
Yeah it is the velocity. Turn it down as far as you can go. If it still doesnt get down, then you need a lighter spring. You swapped one out, but it may not have been light enough.
Also here is the most useful spyder (or spyder clone) tip I have ever heard. Take a pair of wire snips to the chrono station with you. If you are shooting hot, and cant get it down, clip one "loop" off the spring at a time, and re-chrono. Soon, it should be low enough. This effectively makes your "heavier" spring lighter. Pretty quick easy fix.
*edit*
only clip a small amount off at a time. I.E. one loop like I said. A small change in the spring makes a big difference, and you cant exactly put it back together if you cut too much off lol.
This post has been edited by danath 34: 10 March 2010 - 03:07 PM
My Feedback
The TechPB Motorcycle Club- For All of us Two-Wheeled Warriors!
The TechPB Motorcycle Club- For All of us Two-Wheeled Warriors!
kevodevil, on 05 April 2010 - 08:30 PM, said:
The Great Holy Lord Danath of the 34th is right.
#4
Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:47 PM
i did that with my kp too. (check my youtube channel at my sig)
when i first shot it at the chrono i hit 420
XP
but to fix it is to screw the velocity adjuster all the way back and then cut the spring little by little till it shoots under 200
when i first shot it at the chrono i hit 420
XP
but to fix it is to screw the velocity adjuster all the way back and then cut the spring little by little till it shoots under 200
Gun Setup: Proto M8, Infinity Legend, Ninja 68/45, Pinokio/Rotor
Pump Setup: WGP 2k3 ccm'd, Ninja 68/45, Primo/SportShot
Youtube Channel: MikeePB1
Pump Setup: WGP 2k3 ccm'd, Ninja 68/45, Primo/SportShot
Youtube Channel: MikeePB1
#5
Posted 08 August 2010 - 02:55 PM
When i try to pull the pump handle back the hammer wont stay back... Help?
kinko
#6
#7
#8
Posted 27 November 2010 - 03:35 AM
It could be a sear problem or the guide rod isnt long enough to push the hammer back, or the guy is holding the trigger down.
HOW TO MAKE A BOLT ACTION MARKERBolt Action #1 , Semi SKS Build, Youtube ChannelIf you have G1 or EXTCY issues PM me
#9
Posted 06 August 2011 - 12:54 PM
Do you have regulator on it? your output pressure could be too high.
Low input pressure + higher spring tension = valve opens longer for low flow of air = soft on paint
high input pressure + low spring tension = valve opens for less for high air flow = hard on paint
You generally want to find a mean between the two.
If the input pressure is high and the spring tension is high your are going to destroy paint going through your marker.
I would recommend just taking apart the whole marker, cleaning it and making sure nothing is damaged. It is pretty much a Spyder clone (not meant to be negative) which means 90% off all problems revolve around the cup sear/valve. I got a AKP in a sick trade, and somehow the cupsear had been smashed by the striker so hard/much it was bent.
The only recommended internal upgrades for the AKP would be a regulator and maybe a magna valve.
Low input pressure + higher spring tension = valve opens longer for low flow of air = soft on paint
high input pressure + low spring tension = valve opens for less for high air flow = hard on paint
You generally want to find a mean between the two.
If the input pressure is high and the spring tension is high your are going to destroy paint going through your marker.
I would recommend just taking apart the whole marker, cleaning it and making sure nothing is damaged. It is pretty much a Spyder clone (not meant to be negative) which means 90% off all problems revolve around the cup sear/valve. I got a AKP in a sick trade, and somehow the cupsear had been smashed by the striker so hard/much it was bent.
The only recommended internal upgrades for the AKP would be a regulator and maybe a magna valve.
Share this topic:
Page 1 of 1

Help




















