The car thread
Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:23 PM
Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:26 AM
I was kind of curious as to why I wasn't getting ridiculous amounts of bass with a pair of 500w 12" woofers, turns out I was only giving them 3/4 of their power. Now my car will be stupidly loud once I can afford an amp that will feed them their full power.
No offense, but your uncle sounds like he doesn't know what he's talking about. DB drive seems like a sketchy company, at best. I can't even find the specs to your woofers on their own website. Not to mention they actually sell that brand at Wal Mart.
The amp he got you is a miserable match for those woofers. You're not even getting 375w per sub, you're sending 375w to both, which means you're getting around 188w per woofer. And all that is assuming he even wired it down to 2 ohms. Furthermore, those amplifiers are not even CEA rated, so who knows what their real output is.
Even if you get the bigger 1100w DB amp, you're going to have to wire your subs down to 1 ohm, which will probably fry the amp. If those truly are 500w RMS subwoofers, then you need to get a real 1000w RMS amp, like an Alpine MRP-M1000, and quit dickin around with mediocre shit.
This post has been edited by SilentButDeadly: 14 May 2013 - 12:32 AM
Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:58 AM
I don't know what's up with their site, my woofers are rated for 500w RMS and 1000w peak, and are dual voice coil 4 ohm woofers.. My uncle says that the company is good, because they don't try to bullshit you with RMS power, or peak power, and they don't try to claim their stuff can handle more than it can. Which I don't get, because 1000w is written right on the front of the subwoofer, which tells me they're doing exactly what he says they don't.
Supposedly my uncle got the subs down to 1 ohm, by wiring the negatives together and wiring them to the negative part of the amp, and wiring the positives together and wiring them to the positive part of the amp.
Just, instead of attaching the wires from one subwoofer to the other, he just attached them all together at the amp itself. So hopefully it's down to 1 ohm and is getting the full 750/2. That way I don't have to muck with the wiring and can just install the new amp and give them both 550w.
I don't have a multimeter though, so I can't check what they're running at the amp, but I hope he wired it correctly for 1 ohm. Honestly I would prefer to run it at 2 ohms, or even 4, to keep my amp cooler, but I can't afford an amp that can do 1000w at 4 ohms, and I haven't looked around hard enough to find one that will 1000w at 2 ohm, but I'm pretty sure I could afford one of those.
I'm taking this as a learning experience for me. If it turns out my uncle was wrong about a lot of stuff, and doesn't know as much as I think he does, then it just means I need to do more research and do more of the work myself. And make my own decisions on what to buy based on what I want.
And if he's right, then he's right, and I'll keep going to him for advice.
And I don't care if DB Drive is sold at Walmart, just because something is sold at Walmart doesn't mean it's crap. Otherwise hundreds upon hundreds of companies would only produce crap, including Johnson and Johnson, Proctor and Gamble, Pepsi, Coca-Cola, Dr. Pepper/7up, etc. etc.
Posted 14 May 2013 - 03:40 AM
Posted 14 May 2013 - 10:52 AM
Who knows, maybe everything will work out great and the system lasts 10+ years, hopefully. But I'm not that worried about it, life will go on if something breaks. And if it breaks before I want it too, then I'll go with a different company.
Posted 16 May 2013 - 12:31 PM
This post has been edited by HeroForADay: 16 May 2013 - 12:31 PM
Posted Yesterday, 01:48 AM
Posted Yesterday, 11:12 AM
Yup, that's what I experienced when I was shopping for my 6. Fortunately I was able to find an ad the dealership had just put up like 10 minutes before I found it, so that I was the lucky guy to snatch up the good deal. The place I had been looking at wanted about $3k more than the car was worth, and the place I got my car from ended up giving me it for $2k less than what it's worth. All it takes is patience and a bit of luck to find the right deal, at the right time, before anybody else.
Posted Yesterday, 01:05 PM
Had a 99 Ford Ranger for about 4 years. Bought it a year old with only 25,000kms on it from a small used car lot. Truck was immaculate but the check engine light was on and ran like a bag of crap. Got it for $14000 due to the issues. Drove away from car lot Streight to Ford dealer got the O2 sensors and IAC replaced under warranty and even got a free rental for a day. Drove it for 4 years after with absolutely no other issues and sold it for $9000
I bought an 04 Jetta TDI once for $17,900 back in 05. Three years latter and another 100,000kms and I sold the car for $16,000 to a dealership no less.
Bought a older 1986 golf diesel for $1000 with a bunch of spare parts including a spare engine and trans. Sold off the spares for $600 drove the car for couple years lent it to my brother for another year. Put only maybe $400 into it or repairs and sold it for $600 in all that time. Heck I rarely bought even fuel for that car as I'm a diesel mechanic for a living. Every fuel filter I changed got drained into a Jerry can and put in that car.
You can get cars and not spend ALOT of cash and have reliable transport for many years. Just takes a bit of patients and to know we're and what to look for.
That being said my last three cars and few of my bikes I purchased new. And you will always get screwed on new cars purely out depreciation. But ALOT of those "dealer fees" can be skirted with good negotiating. My current Toyota I purchased new and got it at price advertised even with the options I added.
This post has been edited by TinyBear: Yesterday, 01:10 PM