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Dye/Proto Owners Club

#201 User is offline   seriouslysilly 

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:43 AM

Hey guys, recently picked up a DM7 at a deal I couldn't pass up two days ago. This is my first DM but I've reading the stickies and manual. Like all the markers I've acquired, first thing I have to do is a whole oring rebuild.

Replaced and maintained the orings in the drivetrain and hyper 2. My problem is getting the LPR assembly out. After separating the frame and body, there are 3 holes under the LPR. One (towards rear of marker) is empty and the other two has set screws. I was able to take out the screw that is towards the front of the marker easily. The one in the middle, however, is loctited like crazy! I broke one Allen key already and stripped the screw with the second Allen key. Why is there so much loctite on this screw? Will either buy a tap or take the safe route and send to dye.

My questions are about the 3 holes . What are they each for and why was one empty? Also, the silver cylinder that sits above the HPR that has something to do with the on/off. There is also a threaded hole through it. I would assume that it is to secure it, but I'm not sure. Is a screw supposed to be there as well?

Other than that, the DM is in fantastic shape. Barely been used but hasn't been maintained in a loooooong time. Aired it before the rebuild and had no leaks. No leaks after I replaced the orings that I could but I just want to replace the orings in the LPR body as well.

Thanks!

#202 User is offline   erg993 

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 05:57 PM

One of the holes at the rear of the frame (I believe the rear hole) should be very tiny and is used to hold the LPR in place, the other should be a bit larger than the LPR set screw and should NOT be removed, or you will experience some serious leaking. The LPR doesn't really need to be removed unless there is a leak. Sure, it is suggested that you clean it after about 15ish cases, but that isn't necessary. After you removed the small screw, remove the LPR cap, then use the allen wrench to back out the LPR all the way. Once the seat is all the way out, continue turning and the whole LPR body should continue to twist out farther than where it should be seated for proper function. You may or may not need pliers to pull it all the way out.

This post has been edited by erg993: 25 November 2012 - 05:57 PM

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Distortion_UK, on 05 December 2011 - 07:05 PM, said:

Right well we colonised everyone so quit arguing before i bitch slap the lot of you with crumpets and then scold you with tea.

#203 User is offline   Matrixrail_Louie 

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 03:45 PM

My 2012 Reflex Rail! Add me to the members list!!!

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2012 Proto Reflex Rail FST- http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=215777

#204 User is offline   Master_Chief 

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 05:21 PM

http://i1308.photobu...5D8303E250B.jpg

My DM12 that was previously owned by the one and only 2012 PBA's MVP- mr Jason Edwards :P
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#205 User is offline   erg993 

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:06 PM

Both added.

Is that the stock trigger on the Rail? I can't tell from the picture.
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Distortion_UK, on 05 December 2011 - 07:05 PM, said:

Right well we colonised everyone so quit arguing before i bitch slap the lot of you with crumpets and then scold you with tea.

#206 User is online   jacknieland 

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:34 PM

My 2009 PMR. Add me maybe?

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#207 User is offline   asthmaticrhino 

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:34 AM

Hey guys I was going to make a thread on this but i figure i'd just ask the dye owners club what they think. The price difference between a DM12 and a DM13 is about 200-300 dollars depending on how much each has been used. i'm weighing paying $200 extra for the extra 3 pods efficiency, do you guys think it is worth it?
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View Postbigx, on 20 May 2013 - 09:45 PM, said:

Protip. Buy a shovel. Dig and Pile REPEAT until desired effect is achieved. Builds upper body and character. Bitches love upper body and character.

#208 User is offline   Master_Chief 

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:50 AM

View Postasthmaticrhino, on 13 February 2013 - 12:34 AM, said:

Hey guys I was going to make a thread on this but i figure i'd just ask the dye owners club what they think. The price difference between a DM12 and a DM13 is about 200-300 dollars depending on how much each has been used. i'm weighing paying $200 extra for the extra 3 pods efficiency, do you guys think it is worth it?

If you play back, I could justify the difference in price. Personally in my position I'm not ever in a position where efficiency matters but if you play PSP styled play I bet you could get away with the 12.
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#209 User is offline   asthmaticrhino 

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:28 PM

I play mostly semi, I play mid more than back, but I do take back corner quite a bit, but the most I shoot is 6-7 pods (easy for my protege). Im sure I could fiddle with the lpr/ dwell for more efficiency,but would it be better to spend the 2-3 hundred dollars for the certainty I can pull about 9-10 pods If I needed. Obviously this is highly personal, But I'm just looking for others opinions
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View Postbigx, on 20 May 2013 - 09:45 PM, said:

Protip. Buy a shovel. Dig and Pile REPEAT until desired effect is achieved. Builds upper body and character. Bitches love upper body and character.

#210 User is offline   PEfanboy 

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 06:49 PM

Requesting permission to join the Dye/Proto Owners Club?

http://i.imgur.com/nFCwGj2.jpg

This post has been edited by PEfanboy: 19 February 2013 - 07:01 PM

"So, how many feet per second can you get now?"
"You mean balls per second.."
"...Dammit."

Hey! I reviewed the proto rail. http://www.techpb.co...0

#211 User is offline   Totes Magotes 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:13 PM

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#212 User is offline   SOUP 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:24 PM

Dang I miss my pm8, sick marker man.

I've got another em6 on the way, will be my third minion that I've owned. It's basically a pm6 with different milling and the last two I've had shot great.

This club really has died though. Maybe it'll come back to life with a few new members though.
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#213 User is offline   cybermaniac15 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:32 PM

It had a decent start. Lol

Anyways, welcome guys!

#214 User is offline   Totes Magotes 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:39 PM

View PostSOUP, on 20 February 2013 - 12:24 PM, said:

Dang I miss my pm8, sick marker man.

I've got another em6 on the way, will be my third minion that I've owned. It's basically a pm6 with different milling and the last two I've had shot great.

This club really has died though. Maybe it'll come back to life with a few new members though.


Ya ive only had my pm8 a few weeks and i already love how smooth it is. The em6 is also pretty bad ass gun too too bad proto doesn't make them like that anymore.

I tried to find an answer on the forums about the pm8 regs but i couldn't find a clear answer maybe you guys might be able to help.

My question is how many shims are supposed to be on the lpr for the pm8 and whats the order cuz I only count ten shims on mine.

Also what is the correct order and amount of shims that are supposed to be on the hyper3 reg cuz i heard its different from the DMs or even other Protos.

What would happen if im missing shims or have them in the wrong order??


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#215 User is online   lukylovespaintballin 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:42 PM

theres supposed to be 11 lpr shims.
and if the shims are out of order it can leak and the velocity goes everywhere like 290, 370, 100 220 .... you get it.
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canscom, on 13 December 2012 - 11:17 PM, said:

Nothing some beatings tear gas and hard labour will fix

#216 User is offline   Totes Magotes 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:54 PM

Thanks.

I will probably call up dye since i only have ten shims

Is there anyway to buy these like maybe at a local paintball shop or would they have to be ordered through dye since I wouldn't want to pay shipping for one shim?
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#217 User is online   lukylovespaintballin 

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 03:05 PM

View PostTotes Magotes, on 20 February 2013 - 02:54 PM, said:

Thanks.

I will probably call up dye since i only have ten shims

Is there anyway to buy these like maybe at a local paintball shop or would they have to be ordered through dye since I wouldn't want to pay shipping for one shim?


umm i think you have to call dye. For me they shipped me 2 for only 1.79 for the envelope stamps since i had called multiple times for complaints of broken dye gun and problems with my pm8. (2 years ago) so they knew me quite well then and gave me them free except for the shipping. just hit them up
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canscom, on 13 December 2012 - 11:17 PM, said:

Nothing some beatings tear gas and hard labour will fix

#218 User is offline   Totes Magotes 

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 08:43 PM

"10 shims was stock on a M8, but people like to add one to make it more like a DM8. If you would like to order one they are available here: http://shop.dyetacti...-r10210059.html"


I just received this message from DyeTech2 on the dye forums. Does this mean that all PM8 owners with 11 shims added one shim at some point?
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#219 User is offline   Totes Magotes 

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 12:30 AM

Has anyone ever tried using an Eigenring ?


just wondering if it even does anything at all ? Increase in efficiency ? Smoothness?


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#220 User is offline   SOUP 

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:46 AM

I want to try one also, although I don't think it would be needed. I guess they make the marker feel softer and less "kicky" from what I've heard. What happens is when the bolt goes forward the ring moves backwards which makes the marker feel smoother I guess. Makes sense to me, for the price it's worth trying out.

I usually just flip my markers, so I try not to put upgrades in them. Otherwise I'm just loosing money lol
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