what is actually important in paintball
Posted 11 December 2012 - 09:41 AM
I do understand the whole paint thing and I only shot marbz when I was playing. It was the best paint I could find in my area.
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Posted 11 December 2012 - 10:32 AM
the make and model is irrelevant because i have have purchased the same make and model both before and after and it has ranged from mediocre to shit.
a large part of the problem, brands are not a very reliable way to determine paint quality.
The make and model isn't usually the problem or deciding factor on if you're paint is good. You're going to have some paintballs designed to shoot better for certain purposes. Example: you have winter blend paints and tournament quality paint is usually more brittle and shoots the best at national events because it is generally more fresh, brought to the events in a temperature controlled truck from the manufacture after it is made, unloaded off truck, put into your hopper, shot at people. So the shells are going to be cooler, more brittle, and the fill/shell will be a little different to ensure a good marking and brittle break when shooting down field. Your more standard paint you get at the local field or website. Usually mass produced at manufacture, stored in warehouse for who knows how long, shipped to field or your house. Stored in who knows what kind of conditions for however long before it even reaches your hopper. The process between the manufacture and your hopper is where the problems occur.
That is why if you ever see anyone bring back their extra tournament paint to practice with. It is usually kept in poor conditions on the travel back home, and before it ever hits their hoppers at practice. And almost always you will see them squeegee out barrel breaks all day or not hitting the broad side of a barn..
That is also why if you chrono early in the morning and then chrono later your fps will usually raise as the ball expands in the warmer temperature.
I am sure the quality it is made at the manufacture is good, it is just everything afterwards that ruins it. Just got to hope where ever you buy it from stores it well. Something you can do to try and get your paint better, show up early to the fields. Have a cooler with a thermometer and keep your balls a little chilled. That usually works best for just two cases or less. If I am using anything more like at tournaments even after we get our cases off the trucks, or big team practices, we get to the field early, have the AC on in the car once the temperature drops to desired temperature, get our paint, store it in there and get the cases as we need them.. I mean it does help keep decent/good paint the same quality. If your balls are already dimpled or oblong, it won't really make them better or shoot more straight, just more brittle so they don't bounce as much.
Hopefully this helps clear some misconceptions up. I really do not think the probably is with the manufacturers...
This post has been edited by Kirko017: 11 December 2012 - 10:35 AM
The University of Akron Paintball Club
Posted 01 January 2013 - 08:01 PM
My shop is only about 10 miles away from the field(Field being out in the middle of no where)So I just buy my paint at the store since they have paint varying from Heat to Evil/Marballizer(And you get a coupon for Free Air for the day when you buy a case ). I Usually just buy Mid-Grade being Formula 13 or Karnage Bite. I want to try out Polar Ice with my Etha, but I usually go with my uncle and we just buy 2 cases. I would rather have 4000 for both our use, instead of splitting it; Even though we only go through one case. lol
But storing Low-end compared to Mid-grade makes a difference. I shot leftover Heat paint where about 70% was badly dimpled. Needless to say I shot at nothing just to finish it at the field since it would go everywhere, but straight.