[Demon]

so i played with the .50 cal conversion kit in a pink lady 08 ego, it was really tough to get the feedneck insert in, i had to force it in with a rubber mallet. when i shot it at the setting it was at for .68 it shot at 375 fps, i dropped the hpr to where it was 290 but it stopped shooting, closed off the hpr and brought it back to 290 and played the next day. i got a ton of breaks, i couldn't tell if they were chops. and because i didn't have a .50 squeegee i couldn't clean the barrel except for running water through it. but overall it shot pretty straight until it chopped and i liked it alot.

on sunday morning i cleaned it out again and i took the lpr screw out, dropped the dwell to 8 ms in the hopes it would be easier on paint. took it out today and it only broke paint like twice all day, so a bit better but still not great. i also found out that in a pinch the cheap JT swabs can be jammed through the .50 barrel and work well but they are tough to force through, a very tight squeeze.

i was using jt splatmaster paint and i even kept it in the sun on saturday in the hopes it would firm up some and stop breaking but it didn't really. still not sure about the breaking paint issue but i can't easily set it back to .68 as i have no idea how to get the feedneck insert out without causing damage to it or the marker, i am pretty dissapointed that the insert didn't go in as it should have easily dropping down.

[andrewthewookie]

Was there a front and back orientation on the feedneck insert? How fragile would you say the paint was? What loader were you using?

[Demon]

spyder .50 rapid-E loader, there is a mark on the top of the insert which is supposed to face forward and that was what i did, still tight fit.

the paint was pretty brittle, every time a break from about knee-waist height

This post has been edited by Demon: 01 October 2012 - 10:08 AM

[andrewthewookie]

It may have to do with how brittle the paint was. IIRC, the Splatmaster paint was designed to work with splatmasters, so they'd need paint that would break at the low velocities they shoot with. You'd probably have better luck with "normal" .50 paint.

I'd venture a guess and say that it was loader fractures, and probably not an issue with the kit itself, if it was that brittle.

This post has been edited by andrewthewookie: 01 October 2012 - 11:25 AM

[Demon]

none broke in the hopper, there was some paint on the bolt, i am thinking it was with the force of the bolt hitting it causing breaks, i emailed eclipse to see what they think. i also asked them to see if they could tell me how to best get the insert out if i want to go back to .68.

[andrewthewookie]

I mean loading fractures, like how the force of the feed stack might cause little breaks in the paint, and then the force of the shot causes failure at those crack points. It wouldn't have to have actual breaks in the loader to do that.

[Demon]

ah right, i didn't think it was too much pressure on the stack but idk for sure. it's really difficult to tell.

[andrewthewookie]

Yeah, that's the thing about the Fasta/Rapid, the design doesn't seem like it would be the easiest on the paint, especially since it spins a few revolutions every time it senses movement past the sensor. You've got constant movement/pressure on the paint for a second, even if you're not shooting, and given how fragile the paint was that's what I suspect was happening.

I just think we've never seen it before since all the other .50 paint wasn't nearly as brittle as this stuff.

This post has been edited by andrewthewookie: 01 October 2012 - 11:52 AM

[Demon]

may need to try and make a .50 converted loader from one of my other ones that would be softer on paint and see if that fixes alot of it.

[Rotozip2]

I was running my Etek at 8.5 dwell lpr at 4-5 turns and hpr backed in till it was at 280. I dont know if I had a less brittle batch of splatmaster paint, but when I was chronographing it it was staying together at 405 fps.