Egomag Howto (emaggo epmag) Ego frame on an ULE x-vale mag
#21
Posted 14 December 2008 - 12:54 PM
http://www.techpb.co...9
#22
Posted 14 December 2008 - 03:16 PM
rquily, on Nov 27 2008, 04:03 PM, said:
It performs great! After getting ird of my crappy pulse loader I found it never breaks paint anymore (which is nice!) and I just love the way a mag shoots in general! It kind of sucks losing my quick valve remove screw since I would have to mill the frame to get that thing to fit on there and have no access to a mill to do that. The LPR is a little annoying and when I lend it out to people they all want to turn it because they think it's the on/off!! GRRR
cheesemuffin, on Nov 27 2008, 05:35 PM, said:
I did see a post with an 07 egomag, but damn they needed to cut the shit out of it. IMO it looked like crap, I would go for the etek star frame first.
moon, on Dec 14 2008, 09:54 AM, said:
Well you need an rt valve, and a ULT (ulta light trigger on/off assembly). After that you just need the rest of the mag, rail, body, vertical asa, gas through, then an on/off that purges and has holes on both sides so I can put a macro line on one side & the lpr on the other.
After that you need the fallowing:
-tickler LPR ~30$
-cocker hose ~3$
-ego frame ~40$
-ego board ~20$
-small solinoid ~$50
-MPA3 Ram ~$20
-stainless steel thing for ram ~$5
-Misc Barbs ~$20
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#23
Posted 03 January 2009 - 02:34 AM

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#24
Posted 04 January 2009 - 09:44 PM

yeah... the captain plays too : )
#25
Posted 04 January 2009 - 09:57 PM
Capt. Kirk, on Jan 4 2009, 06:44 PM, said:
The mag doesn't need a reg since it's already integrated into the valve itself. The carbon fiber grip is just there for something to hold onto, its not needed. The piece in between the body and the grip frame is called the rail. An "E-mag" rail is basically an RT rail, but says "e-mag" on it. There are tons of rails made for the mag, but they are all basically the same thing, just something to hold it all together the ULE body has a round key on the bottom and the old school stainless steel bodies have an oval shaped key, so the rt/emag style rails will fit circle shaped key hole and vis versa. Any rail can be modified to work with any body though (95% sure). On some of my pics you see a the macroline piped through the foregrip, this is just to clean up the macroline so it looks nicer, the deadlywind carbon fiber forgrip is lighter but doesn't support gas through, so there is no macroline on it.
Does that clear some things up?
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#26
Posted 06 January 2009 - 07:05 PM

yeah... the captain plays too : )
#27
Posted 06 January 2009 - 07:17 PM
Capt. Kirk, on Jan 6 2009, 04:05 PM, said:
Shoots as good as anything out there IMO. It just doesn't have any eyes so make sure you have a good hopper to keep up!
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#28
Posted 07 January 2009 - 12:36 AM

yeah... the captain plays too : )
#29
Posted 07 January 2009 - 07:08 AM
Capt. Kirk, on Jan 6 2009, 09:36 PM, said:
I thought tuning the level 10 has been a pain. When it's working right It works great! I think a warp should be able to do 15bps or so it should keep up no problem. One way to find out!
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#30
Posted 03 May 2009 - 04:14 PM
http://s677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/a...nt=PICT0048.jpg
I have this Micromag
http://s677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/a...nt=PICT0049.jpg
and this classic 68. I cant seem to get the barrel out of it either so any help. I got it from fox paintball in 2003
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#31
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:02 PM
For the barrel problem on the classic I would suggest pouring oil down the body around the barrel to try and soak the large o-rings that are on the barrel. Then you should just have to do a quarter twist counter clockwise and pull. Sometimes if someone has twisted the wrong way it can click into the nubbin groove, then the only way to get it out is brute force kind of.
The micromag should just be cocker threaded so untwist like normal.
Good luck!
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#32
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:58 PM
and what type of grip is that and how does it go on
I have a few more questions. Where can I find these.
-stainless steel thing for ram ~$5
-cocker hose ~3$
-Misc Barbs ~$20
This post has been edited by PeterV: 03 May 2009 - 08:37 PM
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#33
Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:00 PM
PeterV, on May 3 2009, 04:58 PM, said:
and what type of grip is that and how does it go on
I have a few more questions. Where can I find these.
-stainless steel thing for ram ~$5
-cocker hose ~3$
-Misc Barbs ~$20
There is a guy on automags.org who machines the stainless thing, I honesty can't remeber who I got it from, I'll try to update it later when I have time. Cocker hose you can get anywhere, but if you need the barbs anyway I would recommend palmers website:
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com
Cocker hose uses the 10-32 type barbs here is the catagory:
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...ex&cPath=11
and here is the hose:
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...;products_id=79
As for the frame I used an 05 ego frame, hence the name egomag. I had to drill both holes in the frame that lined up with the mag grip frame holes.
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#34
Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:50 PM
does the ram have and wires or what does it exactly do. I really want to get educated on this before i spend the money
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#35
Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:50 PM
does the ram have and wires or what does it exactly do. I really want to get educated on this before i spend the money
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#36
Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:57 PM
PeterV, on May 3 2009, 07:50 PM, said:
does the ram have and wires or what does it exactly do. I really want to get educated on this before i spend the money
Hmmmm, sounds like it went into the wire nubbin groove and that's probably your wire nubbin sticking out in the breach. Basically the barrel has a groove that a spring loaded button pushes into. If you take off your frame you can take off your rail completely and that should get rid of the button putting any pressure on the barrel (should of said that first). So just unscrew the one screw that is in the trigger guard and the field strip screw on the back of the guard and the whole thing comes apart.
The mag works with a teeter totter motion of the sear. Usually you just push the sear with your trigger pin, but with this mod you take the pin out and use a pnumatic ram to smack the sear instead. So the ram only has an small cocker hose going to it that applys air pressure to physical motion that smacks the sear. The little noid is what gives the air power to the ram. Once the trigger is pulled it will activate then release, then the ram returns with a little spring inside of it and the gun resets. The little noid inside the rame is the only wire you should have, everything else is powered with air.
Let me know if that clears things up a bit.
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#37
Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:02 PM
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#38
Posted 09 June 2009 - 02:59 PM
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#39
Posted 30 April 2010 - 06:25 PM

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