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Automag crash course Can anyone help

#21 User is offline   Pyrate Jim 

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 06:33 PM

View Postget.lit.up!, on 22 August 2012 - 07:58 PM, said:

I've heard with an efficiency insert you could get 1500+ off a 68/4.5k


Yeah, good luck with that. I'll believe it when I see it.
AutoMags are gashogs, you need the highest input possible to make them run correctly.
To explain why would take a longer post.

The best thing about an AutoMag is the ease of operation. There are only 5 moving parts and it can be completely rebuilt with no tools.
Beyond that, the AutoMag was one of the top two tournament guns for more than 10 years before electros came out.
Even today (in the age of eletronics) an AutoMag is still one of the top-level mechanicals on the market.
This would explain why you don't see them or the major parts for them at a low cost even buying used - there's nothing that can go bad other than a few O-rings or a rusty spring.

The twist-lock barrel was unique to AGD, and the quickest way to take off a barrel for a pull-through cleaning.
You couldn't do a pull-through with the barrel on the gun, and having an AutoCocker thread adapter was a lot slower to clean out even though it gave you a wider variety of barrels to choose from.
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#22 User is offline   get.lit.up! 

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 01:42 PM

Here is the link to it on pbn

http://www.pbnation....d.php?t=3647839

But holy shit the prices for a good mag is outragous, unlike a classic 68 one... Would be worth owning a 68 classic?
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#23 User is offline   Algae 

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:54 AM

The reason a good mag is expensive is because someone custom built it. But they are utterly and completely worth it.

I own three mags, and have not regretted purchasing a single one. If you need proof, ask sticktodrum. He's been drooling over one of my mags for a year or so now.

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This is the beaut that Stick loves:
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#24 User is offline   get.lit.up! 

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 11:31 PM

Forget the red mag, how does that mag pump shoot?
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#25 User is offline   p8ntballin007 

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 02:28 PM

The first picture is the only pump mag shown.
The second is a Minimag body with a E-mag valve and a Y-Frame grip
The third is ULE Body with a RT Pro X-Valve on it and a standard Intelli-frame grip.

Quick info-
Bodies
Basically if the body is Stainless its going to take The twist loc Barrels specific to Automags and if the body is Aluminum its going to take Autococker threaded barrels. Caution for Classic RT Bodies, they only work with the Classic RT valves/rails unless they are heavily modified.

Valves
Classic Valves - Minimag, 68 Automag, - Can run CO2, no RT, Made of Stainless, accepts level 10 bolt
Classic RT Valves - RT Classic - Can't run on CO2, Only work with Classic RT Bodies, doesn't accept level 10 (I think)
RT Valves - RT Pro (Early) and E-mags (Early) - Can't use CO2, RT, Made of Stainless, Accepts level 10 bolt
X-Valves - RT Pro (Late), E-mags (Late), and X-Mags - No CO2, RT, Level 10 stock, Made of Aluminum, most were black some came in colors but are rare.

For a history on all of this, check out the AGD virtual museum http://www.airgundes...usa.com/museum/
Or go on AO (before it crashes) Automags.org

Mags are still one of my favorite markers out there. A friend of mine put his in the closet 11 years ago, last year i bought it from him and gassed it up without any dissassembly or cleaning and it cycled perfectly. That Autococker back you bought from me was actually from the Emag in my Sig.


#26 User is offline   Algae 

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 08:31 PM

View Postget.lit.up!, on 30 August 2012 - 11:31 PM, said:

Forget the red mag, how does that mag pump shoot?


Incredibly well. The pump stroke is almost nothing, and you can use any barrel you want. Because it's an open bolt pump you can rely on your detents. If you don't feel like playing pump for the day, all you have to do is pull out the wave spring, et voila, you have an automag you can shoot in semi.
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#27 User is offline   Hitech 

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 03:35 PM

No one mentioned the hyperframed mags...



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#28 User is offline   Jaccen 

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 08:22 PM

If the cost of a 'mag seems high, start off with a basic Classic. The joy, and curse, of Automags is that you can upgrade any part whenever you want. When you're done your upgrades, you're usually left with another fully functional 'mag.

CAUTION: Automags multiple faster than rabbits on Viagra.

Once you buy your first one, you'll understand that statement ;)

#29 User is offline   elraido 

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 02:33 PM

I will say this. I own a classic, my friend owns 3 classics and an RT Pro. Save up and spend the extra money on an RT Pro. The reactive trigger is will worth it. Not only that but the stock body and grips are very comfortable. The RT absolutly rips. You find the sweet spot on the trigger where it bounces off your finger and it just brings a smile to your face.

#30 User is offline   drg 

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 02:49 AM

Get a PF classic with level 10, good place to start.
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#31 User is offline   Deftone 

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:12 AM

If I remember right back in the 90's Pro Team Products had their FX Micro Mags that they made the bodies for and they used cocker barrels and not the standard twist lock Mag barrel..They also made them in power feed and vert feeds. And IMHO they were ugly as freakin sin, lol... I owned a few Mags back in the day, I was never a huge fan myself, I was always more of a cocker guy for a number of reasons.

#32 User is online   Njt11 

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 09:29 PM

Bottom line mag's are great you have to pick one up for your self to experience this. I promise if you get one you will not regret it they can achieve amazing rates of fire and there is no electronics to go bad. If you didn't enjoy it their resale value is great so there would be no problem getting your money back. Pick one up and join the automag community!!!

p.s good information on the the manufacturer's website http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/

This post has been edited by Njt11: 12 February 2013 - 09:33 PM


#33 User is offline   dosh 

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 03:18 PM

View Postget.lit.up!, on 20 August 2012 - 10:17 PM, said:

Yes, so what mag would be a newer one with xvalve and cocker threads in it but still mechanical? I'm so tempted to just look at prices for one after I finish my phantom oc pump project :) since these are are presumably better than tippys



There's no presumption involved. The 68 classic was an almost completely stainless steel gun designed to last a lifetime. They were one of a four options for a tournament gun when I started. The othet three were autocockers, shoebox shockers, and angels. Tippmans were around but they were guns for casual players, just like they are today.

From what I've seen on AGD's site the last few times I visited it's 'build your mag'. You select the parts they offer, they send you a gun. So if you pick a TAC or UL body and an X valve you get cocker threads and an X valve. They are all mechanical.

This post has been edited by dosh: 24 March 2013 - 03:18 PM


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