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Milsim Markers

#21 User is offline   Panda's Revenge 

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 09:11 PM

I think he meant TM7 and TM15.

View Postredthirst, on 07 August 2012 - 02:14 PM, said:

View PostHerbert, on 07 August 2012 - 12:53 PM, said:

shit on him

He'd just be like "You shit slow. Get a better ass."

#22 User is offline   StReaKeR 

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 01:35 PM

Oh whoops. Guess I didn't read that right. I would of still disagreed but my TM-15 did have some type of internal blow out leak 2 weekends ago. Lol
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#23 User is offline   Irish725 

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 07:46 PM

Only problem I had with my G-1 was the trigger stick issue from screwing in the handgrips too tight, then having a low battery but GOG guns do that irritating thing where they won't fire but the light still comes on. So you think its on but the battery is actually dead. I mean really, who does some shit like that???
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#24 User is offline   dustyshouri 

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 12:14 AM

View PostIrish725, on 18 January 2013 - 07:46 PM, said:

Only problem I had with my G-1 was the trigger stick issue from screwing in the handgrips too tight, then having a low battery but GOG guns do that irritating thing where they won't fire but the light still comes on. So you think its on but the battery is actually dead. I mean really, who does some shit like that???

Guessing it's because LEDs take such an extraordinarily low amount of power to work, compared to the functionality of the board.

#25 User is offline   Irish725 

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 12:18 PM

You'd think that they'd have something installed to prevent that from happening...
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#26 User is offline   Danny D 

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 11:31 PM

View PostIrish725, on 20 January 2013 - 12:18 PM, said:

You'd think that they'd have something installed to prevent that from happening...



Very hard to do that. The solenoid takes up most of the power. Plus cold weather can be a factor too. A capacitor would help, but it would effect the amount of shots per battery making it less efficient.

#27 User is offline   Irish725 

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 08:37 AM

I know, just seems sadistic lol.
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#28 User is offline   CrowsFeast1 

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 10:24 AM

View PostCalculon, on 15 January 2013 - 09:11 PM, said:

I consider the G-1 and the Etha+EMC to be the best milsim markers for the money on the market. You can't go wrong with either. TMs can be finicky.

How are TM's finicky?
I just bought a TM-7 and absolutely love it so far, so I'd like to know about any problems I may face in the future.

I currently have a Rotor on it, with an aluminum tank. I don't really like how the tank and butt-stock fit together, so I'm thinking about running a remote line on it, but it also comes with a plug if I want to just remove the stock.

It's a really lightweight marker with mini internals, and it's affordable, so i don't see a downside to it right now.

#29 User is offline   Irish725 

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 12:25 PM

Best bet CrowsFeast? Look at getting a ProConnect 3 remote or a Kobra Koil remote. Both have push button air disengagement, and easy to install. Just screw the adapter plug in the back of your marker, put the remote line end on your tank, screw it in, plug it in and away you go.
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#30 User is offline   CrowsFeast1 

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 09:51 AM

View PostIrish725, on 01 March 2013 - 12:25 PM, said:

Best bet CrowsFeast? Look at getting a ProConnect 3 remote or a Kobra Koil remote. Both have push button air disengagement, and easy to install. Just screw the adapter plug in the back of your marker, put the remote line end on your tank, screw it in, plug it in and away you go.


Went to a local shop on the weekend who only stocks Ninja air products. Apparently he no longer stocks the Cobra Coil as too many were leaking when they were brand new, so I just bought a ninja remote coil with slide check (and a fill whip)

#31 User is offline   Irish725 

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:11 PM

That works too. Ninja is a reliable company.
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