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- 29-September 08
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21 June 2012 - 04:12 PMOk, I think I've caught your train of thought. There would be other aspects to tuning in order to do that. If you're minimizing hammer travel and spring compression, you obviously have to compensate a bit to maintain the velocity. CCM seems to use a longer and notably heavier hammer. I also know you had some slugs to bring up the hammer weight (more to compensate for the lack of cocking rod on a halfblock).
Curious as I've struggled with this one.... What is drg's perfect lower tube setup for smoothness on a pre-2k? (I don't care about efficiency at all though)
20 June 2012 - 11:52 PMMaybe I'm misunderstanding, but how exactly does the sear have anything to do with the mainspring tension or the bolt position? They're completely unrelated. The only thing the sear does it rub a tiny bit on the bottom of the hammer until it clicks into place past the sear lug. It applies no tension on the mainspring. Making the sear engage way late could have some effect on the pump stroke but generally it engages way before the breach is fully open. I kind of do the opposite of russc where I pop over the sear lug early meaning I'm not dealing with that at the end of the pump stroke. I'm going for a shorter trigger pull. The only thing that should have significant impact on the length of the pump stroke (and how much you compress the main spring) would be the cocking rod length.
Ok, I'll concede to your point of "wrong" configurations. Obviously if you're mashing metal together, you're doing it wrong. I was talking more about timing preferences. On the subject of mashing metal together though, a known configuration on a mech is to keep a hair of space between the back block and the body so they're not smasking together. So are we doing it wrong on pumps? There is no forward stop on a pump and we bash the back block against the body constantly. Why aren't we blowing out back blocks?
20 June 2012 - 04:56 PMAs Russc said, on a mech it really doesn't matter. You're arguing over something that's basically meaningless and a matter of timing and preference. The ram controls the full back stroke. When this happens, the bolt should always fully clear the breach. This is a closed bolt gun so when &quot;at rest&quot; the bolt is fully forward. The argument seems to be over the position of the bolt when the hammer engages the sear. The two factors that can change this would be the length of the pump rod (affecting the spacing of the back block) and the timing (sear / sear height). There is a known proper distance for the back block so the other is a matter of timing and preference. On every factory stock cocker I've seen there will be a small bit of the bolt showing when the sear engages but there will be a small amount of additional back travel past this point to allow the bolt to clear the breach.
I actually prefer this same configuration on a pump. I do use a return spring so I'm not concerned about bouncing causing an extra ball to load. The reason mine are like this is my preference for trigger position. Again, it's timing and only the sear lug is at play in this case. I like the trigger fairly short to release the sear fairly early in the pull. The consequence of this is there might be a bit of bolt showing at the engagement point. Still, this is all a matter of personal preference as when you pump you're NOT going to stop the pump stroke at the point the sear engages anyway. You WILL bottom out the pump stroke so the sear engagement point is inconsequential. The only thing that actually matters would be the overall length of the cocking rod so you're not compressing the spring or pushing the bolt further back than you need to.
I'm also of the school that there is no &quot;wrong&quot; in cocker tuning. You tune the gun to be comfortable, fast and reliable for you. Then you lock everything down and quit messing with it.