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The Ultimate Vibe/SP1 Troubleshooter


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#51 santersclawz

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 09:40 PM

Yo, when I got my gun out the box with a pre installed blackheart from ans gear, when I aired it up it would shoot, I understand about half the things you put up there, just that I don't fully get how dwell works, I'm using a 45/45 ninja and the gun is a gig envy otherwise a newer vibe.
Any tips? In noob talk
IM 17..IF YOUR UNDER 18 AND PAY FOR YOUR OWN STUFF PUT THIS IN YOUR SIGNATURE

#52 alpha Q

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 02:29 PM

I recently acquired a vibe and was told that the metal piece that is connected to the trigger is missing (don't know what it's called). From what I was told, that metal piece is the "contact" with the board that will allow it to shoot.

What is the piece called and can you buy it separately? I'll post pics in a bit

#53 Danny D

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 04:26 PM

There is no metal peice that physically connects the trigger to the board.

The trigger when pressed pushes against a microswitch. It sort of looks like this, but is attached to the board:
Posted Image

The "metal peice" or the spring steel lever used to trip the switch is good for millions of cycles. It should still be there. If it is not and somehow got sheared off from misuse (first time I heard this happening) you will need to have the whole microswitch replaced.

You will need to find out the part number, buy the part from an electronics supply place and have it soldered in place. If you are good with this the process can happen easily and cheaply, especially if you can acquire the part and solder yourself. Otherwise, I would call gog and ask for a quote for repair - say the lever fell off. They may be able to do it for free, but seeing that your warantee is up, dont count on it. If the repair cost too much you may just want to get a blackheart board.

If the metal lever to the microswitch is still there and operating, then there might be an obstruction when attaching the grip frame preventing the trigger from depressing the microswitch.

#54 alpha Q

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 12:50 AM

Just took my vibe apart. here are some pics of the board:

Posted Image

Picture of the trigger:

Posted Image



I aired it up (there were leaks coming from steel line, I'll replace it soon with all new things) and I touched the "black box" with that thin piece of metal and it definitely shot. I'm just wondering now is there anything that is inbetween the trigger and that metal strip? It seems when I put it together that the trigger doesn't travel far enough to hit the switch

Thanks again Danny for your help and quick replies!

#55 alpha Q

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 01:22 AM

Found what was wrong...

If you look at my picture, you can see that lever was bent. So even when the trigger would hit it, it wouldn't trip the switch laying under it. Just straightened it out and "voila."

#56 Danny D

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 04:57 PM

Perfect! Glad you got it sorted out. Your right, you can definately see the bending in the pic you posted.

I must say, you are lucky the lever didnt break off. Spring steel doesnt usually bend well and most of the time shears off instead of bending.

Thanks for posting alpha Q!

#57 Teacher09

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 10:53 PM

Hey Danny D, could use your expertise :)

I have a Gog Extcy that's giving me fits. I'm using C02 and the gun will not shoot at all. It turns on fine, but even if I put it into the mode where the eyes ignore whether or not a ball is in the chamber, I can't get anything out of it. It acknowledges every trigger pull by blinking, but it does not shoot any air out of the gun. Here's what I've tried so far:

changed batteries
tried different c02 tanks - all are full
tried setting the trigger to a different position
tried adjusting the velocity
reset the board to factory settings
changed the dwell to 30, 33, and tried 40

I'm really at a loss and the person I bought it from has great feedback and told me it worked perfectly.

Any help would be tremendously appreciated. I'm bummed right now.

Also, here is a video I took of it.



#58 alpha Q

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 02:23 PM

Is there something that is maybe blocking the air source? a pinched line or something? I'm just speculating

#59 Teacher09

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 03:27 PM

Is there something that is maybe blocking the air source? a pinched line or something? I'm just speculating

I don't believe there is. I took out the bolt and air shoots out of there when I take it out so I'm pretty sure that air is getting to every part that it needs to get to.

#60 Danny D

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 05:47 PM

Typical Battery Issue. Replace with either duracel or energizer. NO SUBSTITUTES.



#61 Teacher09

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:55 PM

Typical Battery Issue. Replace with either duracel or energizer. NO SUBSTITUTES.

Danny was right - stuck a Duracell in there and it's humming :) Thank you sir!

#62 drs386

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:02 PM

Hey man i'd love your help

My SP1 has a blackheart; and for some reason it won't fire when the eyes are on. I can stick my finger down into the eye zone and see on the button that it sees my finger but it still won't fire. The minute I turn the eyes off (red button) it will still NOT fire in semi auto. It makes little puff noises, and the bolt moves back and forth but no balls come out. I switched to 3 shot burst, and it kept doing 2 little puffs and then a loud bang followed by a paintball coming out. I know that can't be right because SP1's are quiet (i've owned one before but just not with black heart) Now, in full auto it will fire but it acts like its chopping, even though its not; the entire gun is clean and i know my hopper can keep up with it. It's almost like the bolt does a bunch of little shots and then finally gets one strong enough to launch a ball. PLEASE i need help i love this gun but am so lost on what to do.

Appreciate it!

-Daniel

#63 Danny D

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:22 PM

Hey Daniel,

Sounds like a battery issue to me. The fact that with the eyes on, the marker does nothing tells me that the marker is starved for power. When you turn the eyes off its struggling, which means its getting more power, but still not enough.

I would replace with a fresh duracell or energizer. NO SUBSTITUTES!

This is all assuming you havent changed anything major since it was last working (dwell, reg pressure) and the tank is above 800psi.

Your welcome Teacher09, glad I could help.

#64 alpha Q

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 11:04 PM

just a quick question. is an ion trigger cross compatible with the vibe??

I'm assuming no, but just want confirmation

#65 ChefTech

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:21 PM

Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....

Edited by ChefTech, 06 June 2012 - 03:32 PM.


#66 Danny D

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 04:33 PM

just a quick question. is an ion trigger cross compatible with the vibe??

I'm assuming no, but just want confirmation



No it is not. The ion has the microswitch in the grip, the vibe has it on the top. They require different triggers.

#67 Danny D

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 04:46 PM

Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....



First off - HOW DID YOU FRY THE BOARD> just curious. Those boards are waterproof, and can handle just about any battery load.

As for your issue. If the air is coming from the solenoid, then the solenoid is your issue. Although quickly check your qev /front banjo and line for leaks.

Seems like the solenoid armature was not seated properly. Just needed a simple flip and reseat. But upon reinstallation you screwed the noid screws too tight and cracked the housing.

The noid likes a snug fit for the screws. Not tight and not loose. Just snug. You overtighten and you bring the housing too much over the oring and cracking is prone to happen. Too loose, and the clips on the side wont snap in place. The screws are simply backup for those clips. The screws should not be doing the heavy work, which is why snug not tight is best.

As for solutions. You have 3 options:
1. Repair the housing if the crack isnt bad enough. Use epoxy and make sure the exhaust hole and area around it are untouched. The armature relies on a smooth flat surface on the inside to seal air.
2. Get a replacment housing from GOG. whole solenoid costs $30. Ask for more specific parts if possible. Maybe you can get a price break that way.
3. Get a blackheart board for $50

#68 ChefTech

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 05:19 PM


Danny, thanks for putting the guide together. I have run through it and have now replaced what feels like every o-ring. When I started it was just a leak, but I could still use the gun. When I broke it down at first, it was leaking near the bottom side of the solenoid. I took it apart and cleaned it, replaced the big o-ring, but didn't see the tiny o-ring. Now when I gas up, it just starts farting. Prior it would gas up and leak. Any ideas?

Also, the board is fairly new as the original got fried this past year. The gun is 3 years old now, and this is the first I have had an issue with it (other than me frying the board).

EDIT--upon further inspection, I see a crack in the solenoid cover. Wonder if I can get a new one of those....



First off - HOW DID YOU FRY THE BOARD> just curious. Those boards are waterproof, and can handle just about any battery load. Seems you really should only use approved lube!

As for your issue. If the air is coming from the solenoid, then the solenoid is your issue. Although quickly check your qev /front banjo and line for leaks.

Seems like the solenoid armature was not seated properly. Just needed a simple flip and reseat. But upon reinstallation you screwed the noid screws too tight and cracked the housing. This is exactly what I did, heard it crack, but didn't realize until later it was broken. I am going to try the epoxy fix first.

The noid likes a snug fit for the screws. Not tight and not loose. Just snug. You overtighten and you bring the housing too much over the oring and cracking is prone to happen. Too loose, and the clips on the side wont snap in place. The screws are simply backup for those clips. The screws should not be doing the heavy work, which is why snug not tight is best.

As for solutions. You have 3 options:
1. Repair the housing if the crack isnt bad enough. Use epoxy and make sure the exhaust hole and area around it are untouched. The armature relies on a smooth flat surface on the inside to seal air. Going to try this first
2. Get a replacment housing from GOG. whole solenoid costs $30. Ask for more specific parts if possible. Maybe you can get a price break that way. Specific part is 22.50 plus 5.35 shipping
3. Get a blackheart board for $50


I did contact GOG and they have been extremely helpful and quick to reply (same experience I had last year when I fried the board)

I will let you know how the epoxy goes.

#69 ChefTech

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 04:05 PM

The epoxy fix seems to have worked (stopped farting), but there is still a big leak. What should I be checking now?

#70 Lucky7s15

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 07:43 AM

hello, i also have a question, i understand that the valve has a pressure release valve, and i was working on a friends sp1 that he got off of ebay, after shooting a few shots it will sometimes go "puff.. puff.. puff" usually about 3 times or so, is this normal? we ARE using C02 and i have not put a remote line on it yet, so i was thinking that may be the cause.

#71 Danny D

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:43 PM

PM'd you back. Remember everyone - pm me as I dont check this thread often.

Get the remote line, it will increase your efficiency with co-2 as it gets a chance to warm up.

1. Make sure your dwell is set to co-2

2. Replace battery with Duracell or energizer. No substitutes.

#72 Lucky7s15

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 11:35 PM

PM'd you back. Remember everyone - pm me as I dont check this thread often.

Get the remote line, it will increase your efficiency with co-2 as it gets a chance to warm up.

1. Make sure your dwell is set to co-2

2. Replace battery with Duracell or energizer. No substitutes.



the leak is in the area at the top end of the reg (close to barrel), I have already cleaned it etc, it shoots great but sometimes after a few shots it makes the puff noise a few times which really does sound like it is relieving pressure. I checked the dwell right away and it is set to c02 so we plan to put a remote line on it right away anyway, thanks!

#73 bluemoogle

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:13 AM

Hi Danny, excellent guide here!

I tried your troubleshooting steps, but I'm still having trouble with my SP1 venting from the exhaust hole. I have a 2nd SP1, changed everything, and narrowed it down to the board.

Is there anyway to reset the board to factory defaults?


Thanks,

BM

#74 Danny D

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:37 AM

Thanks for Pm'ing me.
I will need more info. It is normal for the board to vent via exhaust. The problem comes when you cant fire full shots (vents heavily when fired), OR it constantly vents from the exhaust.

The board CANNOT constantly open the exhaust. It takes too much power to run the noid for that long, and the programming wont allow it. So factory default wont help unless its a blackheart and the dwell is set too low (vents heavily only when fired).

So let me know if its a contant leak or when fired.

#75 bigfoot13

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 08:11 PM

i just bought a sp-1 blackheart from my friend for 40$, once i got back to my house i decided to clean it before airing it up, cause i figured it had been a while since its been re lubed, i took the bolt out, inspected the orings cleaned every thing off lubed it up with marmalade and re installed it seeing nothing wrong with it. but when i air it up i get this leak from inside the breach, it isnt really going out the barrel so much, but i can feel it slightly coming out the back cap, i have re inspected it again, re lubed it with the same problem, i do not see anything wrong with the oring, the only thing strange i see are small scratches on the can part of the back cap, like there maybe was some sand or grit in there when it was unscrewed, but dosent look like it would effect anything. I forgot to mention that the gun will still fire, the bolt returns, and i dont feel any air coming out the front. it has a new alkaline battery, but it has been setting up for a while, but it works fine on my g6r. it sounds like a oring problems, but my back cap oring is fine looking. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated 



#76 Danny D

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 07:45 PM

Replace the two back cap orings.




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