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Tiberius Arms Rifled Barrel Un-boxing


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#1 UV Halo

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 06:42 PM

I just got my Rifled Barrel in today, it was packaged to LAPCO's standards, in a two piece rectangular tube. Unlike LAPCO barrels, no sticker but, this is appropriate since technically, it is Tiberius Arms Barrel (They designed it, LAPCO made it and it is marked as such).

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It is a one piece, 14” barrel (from threaded tip to back of breech) so, it's a little bit shorter than the stock two-piece Tiberius T9.1 barrel. It also comes with detents pre-isntalled. It appears to have been made to LAPCO standards as all of the groove edges have been radiused (unlike the stock) and, the anno matches in feel and appearance to the LAPCO dust black barrels (which are Type III). The barrel does not include the o-ring found on the forward portion of the Tiberius front (I think it's there to help hold the barrel in, or stabilize it. The front threading is Tiberius Style (personally, I prefer LAPCO's style, even though they are semi-compatible).

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What about the rifling?

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They used a traditional rifling style with 12 peaks, that twist at what looks to be 90degs clockwise, over the length of the rifling (13”), for a twist rate of 1 turn in 52”. There appear to be more surface area taken up by the peaks than the valley. Unforutnately I found it very difficult to get a good, repeatable measurement for the peaks and valleys with my digital caliper. I expect that the diameter from peak to opposing peak is .683.


Can FS rounds go through the barrel?

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I put a First Strike into the breech and, as most expect, it took a bit more force (than the stock 9.1 barrel) to get it through the barrel. I normally use the long piece of a plastic coat hanger for this but, it felt like I was going to break the back wall of the round. So, I wrapped it with a bunch of electrical tape (to spread the force) and, I was able to push it through with no damage to the fins, back wall, or nose.


Does the rifling twist the rounds?

Coloring one half of an FS round, I was able to push it through and observe the round rotating 90deg so, the rifling does appear to succeed in rotating the round in the barrel. I cannot confirm this in firing conditions though.
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(colored area now on bottom)


Will the rifling destroy the rounds or damage the fins/skirt?

Firing 8 rounds into my super scientific capture rig without chronoing, I got the following results:
One round made it with no damage at all
One round delivered it's payload (the nose broke completely) but had no damage to the skirt
Six rounds suffered hairline fractures in the skirt (one of which didn't deliver it's payload)
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Is it more Accurate?

I can't answer this one (no indoor field for testing).


Anything else?

Anyone who's shot a significant number of First Strike rounds and then cleaned their barrel, can tell you of a flaky gray residue left in the barrel by the rounds. The rifling may accelerate this and over time, it may impact the barrel's performance or efficiency (I can't say for certain without rigorous testing)


Overall, I like it, it appears to do what it promises (mechanically). I'll have to wait until rigorous testing to say how well it does what it's supposed to (increased range and accuracy).

15 JUN 2011 UPDATE: As some of you know, I fired 420 rounds through this barrel at Living Legends 4. During this time, I never felt disappointed with the accuracy, and simply found myself wishing I had taken the time to work out the click elevations for the adjustable riser.

You know that gray residue issue I mentioned above? Well, it reared it's ugly head twice during the event- once on Saturday, and again on Sunday. Each time, it was after a significant amount of rounds had been fired (in excess of 100).

The symptom: The round fails to leave the barrel and, the round becomes jammed 1/2-3/4 of the way down (even with a full air tank). You cannot push it through with a swab, and further shooting compounds the problem. When this happened I found I had to use a 5/8" dowel to push the round through. The 'pusher' has to be wide enough to push the round by the fins because if you push by the back wall, it will collapse and then you will push through the round, leaving the skirt and the remaining nose, stuck in the barrel.

I have found that the best way to prevent this issue is to clean the barrel after every every 100 shots or so. I practiced that this last weekend as I fired about 100rds in ranged test firing, cleaned my barrel during a break, and then fired about another 80rds in game play. The problem didn't re-occur at all.

Edited by UV Halo, 15 June 2011 - 10:39 PM.


#2 andrewthewookie

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 06:47 PM

I'm curious to know if we can determine if the fin fractures were from the barrel or impact.

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#3 UV Halo

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:14 PM

I'm curious to know if we can determine if the fin fractures were from the barrel or impact.


I don't think it matters as the rounds will fly straight as long as the fins don't come apart, in which case they will hook severely.

#4 SWAT3050

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:47 PM

Awesome thanks for posting the review. Info has been hard to find on this bad boy.

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#5 andrewthewookie

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:53 PM

I don't think it matters as the rounds will fly straight as long as the fins don't come apart, in which case they will hook severely.


True. I'm going to have to get one of these barrels and test it in conjunction with FirstTI's method of "standardizing" FS rounds

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#6 Lord Odin

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:07 PM

Cool review.

Do you notice any scratch marks on the paint hemisphere, fins, both, or neither?

#7 UV Halo

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:25 PM

Cool review.

Do you notice any scratch marks on the paint hemisphere, fins, both, or neither?


Nothing I could detect with the MK I eyeball but, I've no doubt that the residue I'm finding in is wear from the rounds (however I couldn't say if there is more than a normal smoothbore).

#8 FirstTI

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 04:28 AM

I'm also looking to buy one of the 9.1s with these unique barrels and also a adjustable Picatinny Rail (APR). If the shipment goes well and I don't get any flack from customs, I should have it by the time I'm doing my accuracy tests in March.

I will give you an update as soon as I have the results
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#9 BORG

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 07:43 AM

I can't wait to see outdoor accuracy test of this barrell.
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#10 Millertime

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 12:12 PM

Borg!!!!

I too would like to see some more testing of this barrel. Maybe a high speed from PW?

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#11 UV Halo

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 02:09 PM

So, I took it out to the field yesterday and unfortunately, it was pretty windy (sustained winds in the 20mph range, and gusts into the 40s) so I can't speak for accuracy.

I shot about 144 rounds during the day between the chronograph, doing a demo for the field (to get them approved, and they're added to my field list here) and a pretty good number of small games.

The entire 9.1 was new and I had some chrono velocity/consistency (wide swings in FPS)issues that I'll need to sort out.

I had two rounds break in the breech during the course of the day but, more significantly, I had a serious jam that made me sit out to completely tear down the gun. After a barrel break, I I attempted to shoot through it like I normally do (generally with my T9.0, I find paint in the breech and/or barrel to be of little consequence). In this particular instance though, I found that my 'clearing' shot, didn't come out (the noise was very different as well). I then removed the mag, and when I went to remove the barrel, I wasn't able to. I couldn't turn it to the point where it would spring forward.

So, I sat out two games and ate lunch as I tore down the gun. Once I got the trigger/regulator assembly off, I found that the rubber detent was pushed out of the barrel, and preventing the barrel from turning to it's unlock position. Pushing the detent back into it's groove allowed me to rotate the barrel out.

I wondered what happened to my second shot and, I was surprised to find it still in the barrel, around 3/4 of the way down towards the muzzle (I was able to clearly see it from the muzzle end). That was far from the worst of it though. As I tried to shoot it, then push it the rest of the way out with my plastic dowel, I actually pushed through but, only paint and my dowel came through the other end. I looked inside to find that there were in fact two rounds, wedged tail to nose in there. With the dowel I had completely busted out the cores of the rounds and, the skirts were pretty much all that was left. I then spend the better part of 30-40min trying to get them out before busting out an o-ring pick and breaking apart the skirts, while trying not to scratch up the bore.

Once I got that taken care of, the gun performed okay for the rest of the day (Velocity fluctuations not withstanding). If these rounds had stopped halfway down the barrel, I wouldn't have been able to get them out. All of my squeegees and swabs just pulled/pushed right through the centers of the skirts. In retrospect, I think the second shot hit the first, and blew out the detent causing it to get stuck in the sear slot as I rotated the barrel.

I strongly recommend anyone using these barrels to get a dowel (maybe a 5/8") to push rounds out of the barrel. Due to the tightness of the bore, you cannot push these rounds via their back wall.

#12 UV Halo

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:31 AM

An update:

Last Weekend, I took it out for another day of play.

This last saturday, I took my 9.1 to my local field (allows full auto, rents A-5s W/RTs, and has re-spawns), and I had more barrel breaks than I can clearly recall (I was forced to attempt to shoot through on a couple occasions). At one point, I had three barrel breaks in a row. I was let down several times when I'd get the drop on someone and my first shot at them would be a barrel break. Fortunately, I didn't have any double feeds or barrel jams.

For general cleaning, Getting the paint out is easy. The hardest part about cleaning this barrel out is getting rid of the fine, plastic residue that comes from the shells rubbing the barrel. With my Lapco smoothbore, a rubber pull-through and some water would solve it. With this barrel I find that the plastic (fibers/particles/flakes/whatever) is much harder to get out. The pull-through doesn't do much. I have microfiber and wool swabs and neither of those get the barrel totally 'plastic' free, even with a spray. I bought an old nylon bristled pipe-cleaner type brush made for paintball barrels and I use that, and a spray (either alcohol or, general purpose cleanser) and with scrubbing, that gets rid of all the plastic. It's like the plastic snags on tiny sharp edges and hooks into place.

When you have a round jammed halfway down the barrel, that's when the real fun starts (see my previous post).

I'm also still noticing a consistency issue (loose even for normal PB gun velocity ranges, and much worse than my 9.0 with the Lapco .690 barrel with it's +/- 1 FPS), and this issue exists before I get any barrel breaks.

I'll try calling Tiberius tomorrow on this issue and I'll update with what I find.

#13 andrewthewookie

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:38 AM

It's not looking too good for this barrel.

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#14 PrometheanFlame

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 07:41 AM

Sounds like a case of trying to fix what ain't broke. Maybe you just got a bad item, but this is just another nail in the coffin of rifled barrels, as far as I'm concerned.

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#15 The_Economist

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:58 PM

So maybe I won't need to upgrade my 8.1 after all. Yay!


#16 TheGuy

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 06:41 PM

So maybe I won't need to upgrade my 8.1 after all. Yay!


Who ever said it even needed to have an upgraded barrel?
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#17 andrewthewookie

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 06:43 PM

Who ever said it even needed to have an upgraded barrel?


The only reason I'd get a new barrel would be to help with effeciency.

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#18 PrometheanFlame

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:13 PM

How much would that possibly help? Besides, isn't it barrel length and paint-fit that effects efficiency as opposed to a silly gimmick like rifling? I can't see a barrel getting you more than an extra shot or two out of a CO2 cartridge, tops. That hardly seems worth the price and hassle.

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#19 andrewthewookie

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:20 PM

I didn't clarify enough. I meant that if I ever got another barrel for my 9.1, it would be one of the 16 inch smooth-bores, either from Flasc or Lapco, not a rifled one. Mainly because the stock barrel on a Tiberius is a .688, and the extension is .750. If I went with Lapco's 16" .686 STR8shot, I'd gain some effeciency without sacrificing barrel quality (no rifling). I'm more than likely not even going to get another barrel for my 9.1, it's more of an "if i did, that's what I'd get" scenario.

Edited by andrewthewookie, 11 March 2011 - 09:22 PM.

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#20 PrometheanFlame

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:33 PM

I was under the impression that a barrel longer than 14" would actually decrease efficiency. :huh: I could be wrong, though.

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#21 andrewthewookie

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:37 PM

No, you're right. But going from a 16" .688 stepped up to a .750 barrel down to a16" .686 continuous bore would (hopefully) have an effect on the effeciency. Again, I'm not really looking to get it, I'm just speculating here.

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#22 Trum_15

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:38 PM

I was under the impression that a barrel longer than 14" would actually decrease efficiency. :huh: I could be wrong, though.


it does. but so does bore size.

#23 The_Economist

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 12:04 AM


So maybe I won't need to upgrade my 8.1 after all. Yay!


Who ever said it even needed to have an upgraded barrel?


Only if the rifled barrels were more accurate with FSRs would I consider upgrading. Otherwise, it's fine.


#24 PrometheanFlame

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 01:23 AM

I don't see how them having a few inches to "pre-spin" the round would have ANY impact at all. Mil-sim hooey, I say!

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#25 The_Economist

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 03:04 AM

I would tend to agree but I was waiting for some data courtesy of the early adopters. Thank you UVHalo!


#26 Lord Odin

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 10:34 AM

I don't think anybody is doubting the theory of the technology but I think a lot of us are just waiting to see if (any) accuracy improvements justify the cost. So far, it seems to be a reliability issue.

Edited by Lord Odin, 12 March 2011 - 10:34 AM.


#27 UV Halo

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 01:48 PM

So, since I won't need my gun for at least 1-2 weeks, I sent it off to Tiberius (with the barrel) for them to teching. I'll update this thread with what they and I find.

I strongly advocate getting an Aftermarket barrel! The finish on Tiberius Arms bore is Meh (as compared to just plain crap on the 8.0/9.0 barrels), and the .75" I.D. fronts are a huge waste that don't help as much with efficiency as the standard .70" I.D. fronts used on most every other barrel. Not to mention the rough finish they use on their barrels.

Second, if you're only shooting First Strike rounds, LAPCO found .690 to work the best (as did I with my 9.0s rock solid consistency when using a Ninja tank.

Finally, with FS rounds, I do not believe rifling is a gimmick. If done correctly, it will pre-spin the rounds, and this will at the very least slightly increase range, and anecdotal reports appear to show an increase in accuracy.

The problems I'm having may not be simply due to the barrel. That is for Tiberius Arms to figure out and get back to me on. Trust me, I will verify what they find and I will update.

#28 PrometheanFlame

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 04:01 PM

Finally, with FS rounds, I do not believe rifling is a gimmick. If done correctly, it will pre-spin the rounds, and this will at the very least slightly increase range, and anecdotal reports appear to show an increase in accuracy.


We'll be waiting to hear whether or not these theoretical slight improvements warrant the cost of the upgrade.

And just so that my tone (and general attitude) doesn't mislead you, I'm not trying to be prickish about this. I respect you and your knowledge, UV, so I wouldn't give you shit.

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#29 SWAT3050

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:08 AM

So it's been over a month. Where is the update my friend? We need to know the results!!

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#30 UV Halo

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:25 AM

So it's been over a month. Where is the update my friend? We need to know the results!!


My apologies, I've been on a busy schedule that caused me to forget about this thread.


Got the barrel back and Tiberius said that the probable cause was that the o-ring which seals the gap between the ASA and the main body was the wrong type (material was too soft), and was reducing the air path. I hadn't swapped it out so, it appeared to be a assembly issue from the factory. I was able to tell that they did indeed fire FS rounds through the barrel (by the small amount of fouling I found in the barrel when I got it back)

Anyways, once I got it back, I put 40rounds through it in an indoor test. Velocity seemed to vary a bit more than my T9 but, I suffered no barrel breaks. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do any more outdoor tests (preventing me from eyeball gauging accuracy), and the gun's off getting custom work done so I can have it ready in time for LL4. One factor that I could see potentially impacting consistency is the increased amount fouling I have described. I'm going to have to give this one more time to really make my mind up about it.

I'm sorry if this isn't more helpful.

#31 XGC_Cheevo

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:41 AM

I've read, on the Tiberius forums, if I remember right that you can fix some of the fouling issues with FS rounds by adding a light coat of RainX to the interior of the barrel. I personally haven't tried it but it may help you. Yup here it is: Rain X and FS Rounds. Look at Puredrops post.

But being an engineer I must warn you. This will reduce friction in the barrel and may reduce the rifling effect on the round.

Thanks for the update too. I'm still trying to decide if I'll try a Lapco barrel in combination with a Hammerhead or go with the Tiberius Arms Barrels. Gonna have to search around a little more I guess :P.

#32 AirConda

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 05:02 AM

I too have the rifled barrel. From what I can tell it does help with accuracy, but I am having a lot of issues with range. Everytime I use it is the same thing. I am hitting the guys all day but they arent breaking so of course, they arent calling themselves out. I will say I have been a little skeptical on what these other players are telliing me because I have had some in the past (pre rifled barrel) get hit and not call themselves out cause they thought (or are lying) that it bounced. I found the white fill people tend ignore. That or they are so pissed that I hit them that they intentionally ignore it.

Regardless, I deffinitely cannot shoot as far as I can with the stock barrel. As of right now, I am trying to decide if the increase accuracy is worth the decrease in range. Others claim that they dont have a decrease and dont have problems with the rounds not breaking on impact, so I may just be doing something wrong.
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#33 Lord Odin

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:17 AM

That's weird that you'd have a decrease in range. And that's with the same chrono speed?

#34 andrewthewookie

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 10:41 AM

^ That's what I was going to ask. The post on the Tiberius forums said that you'd have to up the reg a bit, since the rifled barrel was purposefully underbored just for the rounds, and the drag was enough to slow them down.

This barrel was greatly underbored because of the riffling engagement as well as giving more power behind the round for grater distance. Be prepared to Jack up your regulator after u install this barrel as the round is a tight fit.


Edited by andrewthewookie, 26 April 2011 - 10:42 AM.

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#35 UV Halo

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 11:36 AM

I personally, in my outdoor shooting, I did not notice any drop in range that was not associated with drops in velocity. However, I have not thoroughly tested this (i.e. bench locked). From my understanding of ballistics, and how these rounds work, I would find it highly unlikely that the round, after leaving the barrel, and spinning in the correct direction, would slow down any more than a round shot through a smoothbore barrel.

For several reasons I don't want to clutter this thread up with, I get more bogus claims of bounce. However, I have also noticed 'bounces' at normal ranges that fail to break, on soft/semi-soft surfaces (i.e. a chubby belly). The rounds flew straight, and the recipient acknowledged a strong hit but, there was no paint to be seen (even when I inspected).

#36 AirConda

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 03:19 PM

That's weird that you'd have a decrease in range. And that's with the same chrono speed?


I was shooting at about 270fps. I do understand that this is a bit low but with my stock barrel I seemed to be able to shoot a bit farther at 270fps.


For several reasons I don't want to clutter this thread up with, I get more bogus claims of bounce. However, I have also noticed 'bounces' at normal ranges that fail to break, on soft/semi-soft surfaces (i.e. a chubby belly). The rounds flew straight, and the recipient acknowledged a strong hit but, there was no paint to be seen (even when I inspected).


I agree... Lately it has been pretty cool so people have been stacking up with big bulck jakets and hoodies, but I did personally see at no more than 75 feet away, a FS round bounce right of a guys mask. That is when I started questioning things. I had at least two people say that they could see the rounds move so slow that they could have reached out and caught them. I believed them. Mainly due to the fact they always dodge it. I would get a beat on them, take the shot, and then with more than enough time they were able to take a couple of shots and move out of the way. Maybe I am just being paranoid but I never had problems with bounces/slow moving rounds with my stock barrel. I want to get out to the field and run some test but there really isnt a good way for me to test this all out at the field closest to me.

I will point out that when I had the most issues with bounces and slow moving rounds, I was using Co2. Now I have always been using Co2 till just recently so that still should not really matter. I do realize that it will be more inconsistant but it shouldnt be so incosistant that almost every round that hit does not break.
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#37 casperct

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 02:09 PM

You really need a chrony to see where your at.I was shot at this weekend(shooting 280) and was amazed at the energy these rnds have at 75 yds.I hear the shot and I hear the rnd coming(zzzzzzzz!!!)They hit hard!!!Taking a hit in the head is going to hurt bad.Kinda makes me have second thoughts about using them.

#38 UV Halo

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 05:35 PM

You really need a chrony to see where your at.I was shot at this weekend(shooting 280) and was amazed at the energy these rnds have at 75 yds.I hear the shot and I hear the rnd coming(zzzzzzzz!!!)They hit hard!!!Taking a hit in the head is going to hurt bad.Kinda makes me have second thoughts about using them.


At worst, they hit just as hard as a bunkering shot. So, unless you play at "20ft rule fields" or, you would never intentionally single shot bunker someone, you should have no qualms about shooting them in regards to their velocity.

The only inherently 'worse' thing about them is that when compared to a paintball hitting at the same velocity, they may be a little more likely to break skin when hitting bare skin, due to the jagged nature of their shell fractures- I've certainly given head shots with this round but, to the best of my knowledge none of them have been to bare or hair covered scalps so, I can't speak on whether this 'cutting' effect will happen on skin.

To get back on topic, you're right, you really need to chrono with these rounds If you've shot paintballs for any reasonable span of time, your brain has developed expectations of velocity based on the arc normal paintballs take.

#39 AirConda

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 10:37 PM

I dont think that FS rounds hit any harder than regular paint. I had this problem at my field where I had a lot of people cry foul saying that I was shooting hot. I was actually the only one shooting below 300fps on the field. Everyone else was shooting about 320fps. I think the problem with the FS is the fins making the zzzzz'ing sound you are talking about and in everyone's mind, they think that you are shooting hot.

I have been hit by FS rounds and didnt really feel too bad. Heck with regular paint I have had skin break to the point where blood was dripping from my arm and that is without hitting bare skin. That was with being shot through BDUs. I have yet to see anyone bleed from being shot by FS, but again, I do actually take the time to chrono my marker before a day of play and sometimes during down time inbetween games. I do agree. You definitely need to chrono your marker, buthat is for both FS and regular paint. I had one day where I had a really bad headache cause a dude was shooting hot and hit me directly on the top of my head.


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#40 Lord Odin

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 10:44 PM

Let's not get too far off topic guys.

Anyone have plans in the near future for a clamped side-by-side comparison test of the smooth vs rifled barrels?

#41 AirConda

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 02:55 AM

Let's not get too far off topic guys.

Anyone have plans in the near future for a clamped side-by-side comparison test of the smooth vs rifled barrels?



Here is a test that some one did real quick with the stock barrel and the rifled barrel. There is also another post kind of compairing the Flasc bore kit with the Lapco rifled barrel.

Rifled vs. Stock
Lapco vs. Flasc

Hope these are helpful Posted Image.

Edited by AirConda, 28 April 2011 - 02:16 PM.

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#42 SWAT3050

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 10:58 AM

That punkworks video is not the rifled barrel. That is just FS rounds through a normal barrel.

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#43 AirConda

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 02:15 PM

That punkworks video is not the rifled barrel. That is just FS rounds through a normal barrel.


I realized that couple of minutes after posting it. Just didnt get around to editing cause I was at work.
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#44 UV Halo

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 10:51 PM

Updated the OP.

The short version: If you shoot a lot of these rounds in a day (i.e. >80-100rds), clean your barrel halfway through the day (even if you didn't break paint). Otherwise, you may get a barrel jam, which isn't fun.

#45 XGC_Cheevo

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 06:41 PM

Great update UV! Buying one of these barrels soon.

#46 andrewthewookie

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 06:45 PM

Hmm... I'm still paranoid about breaking a FS round in it, so unless it actually drastically improves FS performance over a smooth barrel, I think I'll stick to the STR8 shot.

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#47 voad

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 01:29 AM

So was there ever a comparison done between a standard smooth barrel and the rifled barrel with FS?

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#48 UV Halo

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 01:44 PM

Here is a test that some one did real quick with the stock barrel and the rifled barrel. There is also another post kind of compairing the Flasc bore kit with the Lapco rifled barrel.

Rifled vs. Stock
Lapco vs. Flasc

Hope these are helpful Posted Image.



So was there ever a comparison done between a standard smooth barrel and the rifled barrel with FS?


See the above quote for a loose test. BryceLarson and Cockerpunk, may do one in the future.

#49 Kanas

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 01:10 PM

can you still use normal paintballs in this? does it put spin on them? and how much =)
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#50 DruidicRifleman

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 03:02 PM

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