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Newbies Guide To The Autococker


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#1 Kermit

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:19 PM

Newbies Guide To The Autococker





In this guide, I'm going to discuss the basics of the Autococker Paintball Marker. The first section of this guide I am going to start with the different parts of the marker and explain how they work. Let's dig in!







Lets do a little history lesson. The original WGP gun was called "The Sniper".





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This gun was made in the early 90's by Bud Orr, the creator of the first autococker and the former owner of WGP. After the "semi-auto rage" kicked in the sniper was slow and not able to keep up with the new semi auto guns. As the gun was developed into a semi auto marker legendary marker was created and it was used for nearly 15 years in tournament and recreational paintball all over the world.







Trigger Frames-

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On the autococker, the trigger frame is one of the most important parts of the gun. It is a dual purpose part on the marker that not only fires the marker but also starts the process in which the marker resets(autococks) itself. On this frame, notice the hole in the trigger itself. Keep that small hole in mind, we'll be coming back to it later. There are several different frame options for autococker markers and most frames are all compatible on all autococker markers. The most common frames are .45 frames, being hinge frames and slider frames. Click on the spoiler for more photos of different autococker frames.(the two frames shown are WGP slider and WGP Hinge Frames both taken from paintballgateway.com)




Pneumatics-

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The pneumatics on an autococker is the "heart" of the marker. Without them, it wouldn't be an autococker. The pneumatics are attached to the trigger through the hole in the trigger frame via a 3 way actuating rod(remember that hole in the trigger frame?).

***This does NOT completely apply to an E-Blade autococker. On an E-Cocker, the pneumatic 3 way and 3 way actuator are replaced with an electronic solenoid and a wire.***




LPR-

Just like on any other paintball marker, the LPR lowers the input pressure of the marker. On a marker like a DM, Intimidator or Ego, the LPR lowers the input pressure for the shot. On an autococker, the LPR lowers the pressure for the pneumatics. Some LPR's are externally adjustable, some are not and must be taken apart to change pressure. The LPR gets air input from the valve/reg of the marker and outputs to the markers 3 way.


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3 Way Actuator Rod-

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What this rod does is connect the trigger to the 3 way. When you pull the trigger this controls the 3 way's flow of air.




3 Way-

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If you know how a solenoid works, you have the idea how the autococker 3 way works. Upon the trigger pull of the marker, this part of the pneumatic portion of the marker changes the direction of the air flow through the pneumatics. The center hole on the 3way is the input from the LPR. As you can see in this animation, as the trigger is pulled back and forth, the direction changes and the airflow leaves different holes.
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Ram-
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The ram is the part of the pneumatics that actually @#!*% the marker.
As the direction of air changes from the 3 way, the ram moves back and forth.

Cocking Rod-
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The cocking rod is attached to the hammer of the marker. By pulling on this, you @#!*% the markers hammer.



The Back Block-

The back block of the autococker is the part that helps load a ball and the part that helps @#!*% the gun. As the ram pushes the back block backwards, it pushes on the cocking rod and loads a ball with the bolt.
VIDEO-
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5w6UbfL1bA"]http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Z5w6UbfL1bA[/url]

Notice that as the trigger is pulled the back block moves backwards and as the trigger is released it goes forward. The reason is because as the trigger is pulled, the airflow is changed to the ram thus causing the backblock to move.


The Lower Assembly-
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For the most part, the autococker's lower assembly is very simple. If you know how a spyder works, you have a good understanding of the autocockers lower assembly.



The IVG-
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The Autococker's hammer is the part of the gun that hits the valve. It's driven by the hammer spring(shown above) and is released by the seer in the trigger frame upon a trigger pull. The cocking rod screws in to the back of the hammer and it @#!*% by the back block upon each trigger pull. There is an adjustable lug so that you can choose where in the trigger pull the hammer is released.(refer to the timing section)

The Valve-
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It's very simple. The air goes in, when the hammer hits the valve pin, air is releases through the bolt and out the barrel to fire the ball. A special valve tool is needed for removal of the valve.

The Bolt-
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The Bolt is also very simple. It's purpose is to load a ball and it's also attached to the back block. Upon firing the bolt is aligned with the valve and the air from the valve goes out the bolt and fires to the bolt.



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Autococker Timing-
Autococker timing is very important to having a well shooting autococker. This video explains it much better than I can, so I will leave it at this
[url="http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7742394969171187631#"]http://video.google....94969171187631#[/url]

Velocity Adjustment/Sweet Spotting The Reg-

To adjust the velocity on an autococker/sniper you either turn in the IVG or increase reg pressure. To increase through the IVG, remove the cocking rod and rotate the IVG clockwise to increase velocity or counterclockwise to decrease velocity. There is a certain balance of spring tension(IVG Adjustment) and regulator pressure called the "sweet spot". Here is a great article on sweet spotting the autococker/sniper.



Mid Block/Half Block/Full Block/Midget
A midblock or halfblock autococker is just an autococker with the backblock removed and the bolt and hammer modified. In a midblock gun, the bolt is attached vertically through the top of the body, much like the Azodin Pump. A Halfblock gun has a seperate "sled" that attaches the bolt and hammer together. A midget is a halfblock gun with part of the lower tube cut as well. It allows a tighter playing package as the back block isn't moving back and forth any farther from the body.
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Other Variants Of Autocockers-

There are several other types of autocockers, although they are less common.

The most popular non-traditional autococker is the Palmers Blazer. The pneumatics are on the side of the gun opposed to the front.

There are other types such as the SHO sniper/autococker and the AP Soverign for example.


Autococker Dating/Pump Kit Compatibility(Pre 2k/2k+/Mini)

There are two different front block threads for the autococker bodies. The pre-2k bodies have a different thread than the 2K+ bodies. Keep this in mind while looking for aftermarket pump kits or front blocks. A mini-autococker is an autococker that has a vertical ASA integrated into the frontblock, thus the name "mini-'cocker". A "mini-'cocker" can have either pre-2k or 2k+ frontblock threads.
Look below for pictures of each kind-

Pre-2k
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2K+-
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Mini-
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Video Taking Apart An Autococker By Bryce Larsen!
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv85n5ULzQQ"]http://www.youtube.c...h?v=dv85n5ULzQQ[/url]

Hope this guide helps anyone wanting to learn the basics of the autococker!


Edited by Kermit, 11 May 2011 - 09:03 PM.


#2 PeanutWing

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:22 PM

First

From the first few paragraphs I did read, it was good

Edited by PeanutWing, 10 May 2011 - 12:25 PM.


#3 Kermit

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:24 PM

If anyone else has anything to contribute, let me know.

Edited by Kermit, 10 May 2011 - 01:14 PM.


#4 PeanutWing

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 01:27 PM

Makes me want to buy the WGP SR

#5 Kermit

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 01:33 PM

Eh...the SR is just barely an autococker. You get the negatives of a 'cocker without the trade off, the special feel.


Please close this, I meant to post in the newbie forum.

#6 chopper duke

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 08:06 PM

Well done. Also, you may want to add something about Feeds. Left, Right, Center, Removable and standard WGP Feedneck threading. Also, Mini and Midgeting.
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#7 Rock out w/your cocker out

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 08:49 PM

May want to elaborate on the tole of the cocking rod. It sets the stroke length... Threaded in too far, the stroke is too short and balls may not clear the bolt to enter the breech. Threaded out too far, and the markers efficiency drops due to the ram consuming more air, and pump trokes can be loooong. Personally, I set my cocking rods to be close to flush with the breech... No more, no less. Very short pump stroke.

#8 Kermit

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 09:03 PM

Updated :)

#9 Rock out w/your cocker out

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 10:26 PM

One other thing - the ball detent... A lot of folks think the detent function is to prevent roll outs... All a detent does with a cocker is prevent double feeds. The barrel prevents roll outs. That is why most sniper players tend to underbore.

#10 Kermit

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 09:15 AM

Updated version is in the Newbie Forum.

#11 snowpharaoh

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 12:58 AM

Very helpful. Thanks, hombre!
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#12 Kermit

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 05:05 PM

Be sure to check out the new version :)

#13 csskiller

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 05:37 PM

The "3-Way" is technically a 4-way valve just to let you know :)

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#14 SuicideLemming

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 06:35 PM

This, cockerpunk's thread about SC vs. OC, and Unimoose's thread about shooting in general should be stickied. I think the latter two were at one point but I can't recall.

#15 csskiller

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 06:38 PM

There is a pump super sticky at the top: http://www.techpb.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=68620

They used to be all individual stickies but that cluttered the forum too much.

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