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Everything you need to know about Loctite


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#1 CrazyLittle

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 01:51 PM

I wrote this for PBNation a while back. It might be useful to somebody here who's never seen it. If you have any suggestions please feel free to suggest them.

I keep seeing recommendations to "Use loctite" and rebuttles, "Don't use loctite, use x/y/z!" Both statements are stupid and wrong, because Loctite is just a brand, not a product, and they make products for just about everything we need in paintball. Here's the deal - I'm going to list FOUR loctite products every gunsmith & DIY Fixer-upper should have, and when to use them... from safest to break-your-shit-est. Where possible I will also list the Permatex equivalent.

GROUP 1 - THREAD SEALANTS / AIR CONNECTION SEALANT / LEAK STOPPERS:

Loctite #567 PST: Thread Sealant
(Permatex #59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant with Teflon)

Posted Image

Use this stuff on every threaded air connection, like macroline fittings or air gauges. Use it wherever you would have used Teflon tape. It's cleaner, wipes off easily, and will never rust or seize. How to use it properly: BEFORE screwing in the fitting, run a small bead of Loctite Thread Sealant halfway around the 2nd and 3rd threads on the end of the fitting. When you screw it in, the paste should smooth out around the whole thing and seal nicely. Wipe up any excess with a kleenex. The joint should be ready to use in about 30 seconds.


Loctite #545: Thread Sealant Hydraulic/Pneumatic Sealant (Loctite PURPLE)
(Permatex #54540 Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant)

Posted Image

This stuff is a GLUE. It will hold your threads in place, so if you have a fitting that keeps coming loose and leaks air, this is the stuff for you. You might use this to mount the LPR on a autococker, so that even though the gun shakes, it will never leak air, and never come loose. It's still only going to hold wrench-tight, so you can remove it with a little bit of muscle. Keep in mind that when you seal a joint with #545, you need to let cure overnight before gassing up. Trying to test leaks while this stuff is wet will just blow all the sealant glue out of your joints.



GROUP 2 - THREAD LOCKERS / SCREW GLUE

Loctite #242: Threadlocker Medium Strength (Loctite BLUE)
OR
Loctite #243: Threadlocker Medium Strength, Oil Resistant

(Permatex #24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE)

Posted Image

This is the all purpose stuff that people should be using if they have a screw that comes loose from the vibration of the marker. Use it to keep autococker cocking rods from coming loose, or trigger frame screws, etc. It's strong enough to keep things from coming loose, but will give fairly easily when you twist at it with a tool. How to use it properly: BEFORE screwing in the bolt, place a medium sized drop of Loctite Blue on the threads just before the end of the bolt. Screw it in as normal. It should look like this:

Posted Image

Loctite #262: Threadlocker High Strength (Loctite RED)
or
Loctite #271: Threadlocker High Strength (Loctite RED)

(Permatex #27100 High Strength Threadlocker RED)

Posted Image

This is the stuff that's going to get you in trouble. It's stronger than any other glue, and using it on your threads makes a PERMANENT bond. You have to put about 600 lbs of force on the screw to get it off, or take a blowtorch and heat it to about 300 degrees before it will give. Chances are you're going to break your marker before getting the screw out again. Use this stuff SPARINGLY. There's only a small selection of places I would use this, and that's for the screws which take a lot of force - like T-stocks or ASA mounting screws, and drop-forwards/cradles. Use as little as possible, and if you can, avoid using it.

Here's what some of the packaging looks like up close:
Posted Image

Edited by CrazyLittle, 15 April 2011 - 09:36 AM.

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#2 **armor**

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 07:53 PM

Nice Post. I see a sticky in your future

#3 Hunter_D

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 08:09 PM

Nice Post. I see a sticky in your future


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#4 CrazyLittle

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 03:51 AM

I'm not going to sticky my own thread ;)

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#5 Kitty

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 08:55 AM

Have more confidence in what you write.
Its a great thread.

Stickied.

#6 CRU_Paintball

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 09:25 AM

awesome thread, great info, thanks CrazyLittle.

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#7 zop1o

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 11:29 PM

isnt there also green loctite that is absolutly permanent and will never come of ever? short of a plasma torch?
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#8 CrazyLittle

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 02:46 PM

isnt there also green loctite that is absolutly permanent and will never come of ever? short of a plasma torch?


Yeah I didn't mention green loctite because it's a really bad idea to use on a paintball gun. It's not super-strong. It's really only the same strength as red loctite. The difference is that green loctite is a wicking product. It is designed to seep into the cracks and crevices of an already tightened screw. So say you're working on your car, and you need to tighten down a bolt on the engine - but it would work itself loose later? Well - screw it in, add some green loctite to it, and then tighten to spec. With red loctite you would have to unscrew the bolt first, and then put the loctite on before you screw in the bolt.

*edit* Speaking of which, this is what green loctite did to a Palmer's Micro Rock:

Posted Image

Edited by CrazyLittle, 06 February 2009 - 06:20 PM.

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#9 cpman

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 02:53 PM

Nice post, I've always been looking for something like this.
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#10 velocity1221

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 03:36 PM

i also have a few bottles of a yellow loctite, but its basically super glue, would never use it on anything for paintball, but just letting everyone know. its just in a tiny bottle. If i find it i can throw up a pic later.
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#11 paintballjla

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Posted 18 February 2009 - 08:48 AM

so is purple the same strength as blue but also ahs thread sealing or is it stronger than blue

#12 Maj Tom

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Posted 18 February 2009 - 09:09 AM

Charts I found a while back:
[attachment=1397:Book1.pdf]
[attachment=1398:tl_info.pdf]

Edited by Maj Tom, 18 February 2009 - 09:17 AM.


#13 2.0

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Posted 18 February 2009 - 09:48 AM

That's a brilliant post. Thanks for that. I've never really had to use loctite, i've just used teflon tape on fittings. It has be be changed relatively often but it's cheap and easy to remove.

#14 CrazyLittle

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Posted 18 February 2009 - 12:00 PM

so is purple the same strength as blue but also ahs thread sealing or is it stronger than blue


Loctite 567-PST should not seize, so beyond whatever torque the threads require, you should always be able to undo a 567'd thread with hand tools.

The other three products are thread lockers. They glue the threads in place, and require some amount of force to undo after its dried:
The breaking force for Loctite 545 Purple after 24-hours cured is 20 inch-lbs (2 ft-lbs)
The breaking force for Loctite 242 Blue after 24-hours cured is 70-150 inch-lbs (12 ft-lbs)
The breaking force for Loctite 271 Red aftyer 24-hours cured is 150-300 inch-lbs (25 ft-lbs)

That's a brilliant post. Thanks for that. I've never really had to use loctite, i've just used teflon tape on fittings. It has be be changed relatively often but it's cheap and easy to remove.


The problem with teflon tape is that every time you unscrew the fitting, tiny threads of teflon get cut loose, and can travel down the internals of your gun. If a single thread stops on top of a regulator seat, you now have a leaking/spiking regulator.

Edited by CrazyLittle, 10 March 2010 - 05:55 PM.

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#15 Newman513

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 08:30 AM

I was always scared to use loctite, I'm reliuising those fears a bit now/ thanks!

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#16 jmorgan211

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Posted 03 March 2009 - 05:57 PM

hey what about red loctite 266 i see you didn't have any information on that??

#17 CrazyLittle

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Posted 03 March 2009 - 06:09 PM

hey what about red loctite 266 i see you didn't have any information on that??


266 is similar to 271 Red. The most common one that I find when shopping at auto parts stores is Permatex Red or Loctite 271/272, so that's why I listed them.

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#18 protoballer63

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 02:07 AM

well i think my feedneck might be loctited cuz i cant get it off no matter what i do ive tried mikes tip but it didnt work i cld get it to move at all theres some yellowish stuff sticking out from the crack between the gun and the feedneck could that be loctite? its either that or some dried paint

#19 bmoney83

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Posted 22 July 2010 - 12:18 PM

sometimes my CF 68/45 tank "bottle" unscrews as i take it off my gun...to loctite it in place would i use the red loctite on the bottle to secure it in place?
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#20 Chubs

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Posted 23 July 2010 - 12:31 PM

sometimes my CF 68/45 tank "bottle" unscrews as i take it off my gun...to loctite it in place would i use the red loctite on the bottle to secure it in place?


Yes. Red or blue will work.

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#21 The_Highlander

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 02:29 PM

Great Thread!
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#22 Nick Nameless

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 09:19 AM

What's wrong with Teflon tape? It isn't messy, seals good, and makes threads easier to screw in.
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#23 needzpractice

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 03:43 PM

I wrote this for PBNation a while back. It might be useful to somebody here who's never seen it. If you have any suggestions please feel free to suggest them.

I keep seeing recommendations to "Use loctite" and rebuttles, "Don't use loctite, use x/y/z!" Both statements are stupid and wrong, because Loctite is just a brand, not a product, and they make products for just about everything we need in paintball. Here's the deal - I'm going to list FOUR loctite products every gunsmith & DIY Fixer-upper should have, and when to use them... from safest to break-your-shit-est. Where possible I will also list the Permatex equivalent.

GROUP 1 - THREAD SEALANTS / AIR CONNECTION SEALANT / LEAK STOPPERS:

Loctite #567 PST: Thread Sealant
(Permatex #59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant with Teflon)

Posted Image

Use this stuff on every threaded air connection, like macroline fittings or air gauges. Use it wherever you would have used Teflon tape. It's cleaner, wipes off easily, and will never rust or seize. How to use it properly: BEFORE screwing in the fitting, run a small bead of Loctite Thread Sealant halfway around the 2nd and 3rd threads on the end of the fitting. When you screw it in, the paste should smooth out around the whole thing and seal nicely. Wipe up any excess with a kleenex. The joint should be ready to use in about 30 seconds.


Loctite #545: Thread Sealant Hydraulic/Pneumatic Sealant (Loctite PURPLE)
(Permatex #54540 Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant)

Posted Image

This stuff is a GLUE. It will hold your threads in place, so if you have a fitting that keeps coming loose and leaks air, this is the stuff for you. You might use this to mount the LPR on a autococker, so that even though the gun shakes, it will never leak air, and never come loose. It's still only going to hold wrench-tight, so you can remove it with a little bit of muscle. Keep in mind that when you seal a joint with #545, you need to let cure overnight before gassing up. Trying to test leaks while this stuff is wet will just blow all the sealant glue out of your joints.



GROUP 2 - THREAD LOCKERS / SCREW GLUE

Loctite #242: Threadlocker Medium Strength (Loctite BLUE)
OR
Loctite #243: Threadlocker Medium Strength, Oil Resistant

(Permatex #24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE)

Posted Image

This is the all purpose stuff that people should be using if they have a screw that comes loose from the vibration of the marker. Use it to keep autococker cocking rods from coming loose, or trigger frame screws, etc. It's strong enough to keep things from coming loose, but will give fairly easily when you twist at it with a tool. How to use it properly: BEFORE screwing in the bolt, place a medium sized drop of Loctite Blue on the threads just before the end of the bolt. Screw it in as normal. It should look like this:

Posted Image

Loctite #262: Threadlocker High Strength (Loctite RED)
or
Loctite #271: Threadlocker High Strength (Loctite RED)

(Permatex #27100 High Strength Threadlocker RED)

Posted Image

This is the stuff that's going to get you in trouble. It's stronger than any other glue, and using it on your threads makes a PERMANENT bond. You have to put about 600 lbs of force on the screw to get it off, or take a blowtorch and heat it to about 300 degrees before it will give. Chances are you're going to break your marker before getting the screw out again. Use this stuff SPARINGLY. There's only a small selection of places I would use this, and that's for the screws which take a lot of force - like T-stocks or ASA mounting screws, and drop-forwards/cradles. Use as little as possible, and if you can, avoid using it.


You wouldn't happen to know what Proto uses on their stock SLG feednecks? I want to remove it but not damage it at the same time. Any tips?
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#24 solargod03

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Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:09 PM

Use VC-3 (Vibra-tite): works great, also does not make it impossible to remove screws.

Vibra-Tite

Stops fasteners from loosening from extreme shock and vibration
Works with metal, wood, plastic and more
Fasteners are easily adjusted, removed and reused
Works on fasteners of any shape or size, from tiny eyeglass screws to large construction bolts
Works with internal or external threads


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#25 Rock out w/your cocker out

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 11:52 AM

The local company that I get my tanks hydro'd at doesn't recommend using loctite on tanks and regs. Too much can cause the reg to snap while removing it, leaving one with a useless tank and a broken reg. If a tank continually tries to spin off the reg, get an on/off with purge.

#26 pbprofessional

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 10:09 PM

I put some blue loctite on my feed neck because I could not take my loader out with out taking out the whole feed neck. I whent to replace it because my pinokio would not fit the neck but I can niot get it out. I only used a bit so I dont understant. It seems that trying to get it off justs cuts and hurts my hand. Can you help. thanks

#27 mtawdrous

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:30 AM

wow that a great post thank you

#28 sparky1

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 12:09 AM

Would this fall under the category of "blue" loctite?

i want to re-do my fittings on my reg with this instead of the teflon tape, but im un-sure if i got the right stuff.

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#29 CrazyLittle

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 04:26 PM

Would this fall under the category of "blue" loctite?

i want to re-do my fittings on my reg with this instead of the teflon tape, but im un-sure if i got the right stuff.

[img-]http://i56.tinypic.com/vzc9cg.jpg[/img]


No, don't use that stuff. It's not a thread locker. That stuff is just another version of crazyglue.

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#30 98Pro

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 01:54 AM

Nice thread :tup: Few suggestions. Adhesive sounds better than glue ;). Also I'd like to note that that 600 psi is for advertising. 600psi bonding will only occur in perfect environments for setting, perfectly clean screws. Perfect threading to be as air tight as possible to create a vacuum effect, etc. So it all varies and you can cut an allen wrench and take a small drill/driver and break the bond.

#31 CrazyLittle

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 02:11 AM

Sure, but even 100ft/lbs is enough to snap the heads off of some screws if they're worn or damaged, so that's why I don't recommend that people use loctite 271/red

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#32 98Pro

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 07:36 PM

True. That's why we need titanium screws XD. Well not psf (per square foot) cause a 1/4" diameter screw would have lass the 1 lb of grab. I do believe it's measured in per square inch. Which would have adhesion closer to 100 lbs (not psi anymore since I'm singling out the screw) on the screw cause in all reality it'd be around 300-400 psi. Sorry if I'm sounding like a smart ass :/ .

#33 etekgirl27

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 02:17 AM

Isnt blue locktite good for fittings as well? thats what mike said in his video

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#34 CrazyLittle

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 08:59 PM

Isnt blue locktite good for fittings as well? thats what mike said in his video


Blue loctite is not designed to seal pneumatic fittings. Just because you can hammer nails with a crescent wrench doesn't mean it was designed with that use in mind.

Sometimes you'll get a fitting where the threads aren't snug to the socket you're screwing it into, and no amount of blue loctite will seal that. Loctite 567 and 545 will since that's what they're designed to do.

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#35 98Pro

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 05:17 PM

542, 545, 569 and 5451 there a re a few others listed by McMaster. Maybe McMaster pt nos. could be listed here for thread lockers , grease (they have Dow 33!!! 1252K12 $20 for 5.3 ounces (about $4 an ounce) and $315 for a gallon (about $2.50 an ounce) ) they have dow 55 as well just search molykote ** grease number which there are tons of.




#36 Lucas

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Posted 16 December 2010 - 05:18 PM

Pin this Crazy

#37 CrazyLittle

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 01:44 AM

^... It already is?

542™, 545™, 569™ and 5451™ there a re a few others listed by McMaster. Maybe McMaster pt nos. could be listed here for thread lockers , grease (they have Dow 33!!! 1252K12 $20 for 5.3 ounces (about $4 an ounce) and $315 for a gallon (about $2.50 an ounce) ) they have dow 55 as well just search molykote ** grease number which there are tons of.


wow, $315/gallon... you could grease a field with that and do 100' supermans :lol:

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#38 98Pro

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 02:23 PM

EXACTLY! lol I would almost buy it to resell.

#39 lashcoin

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 02:44 PM

542, 545, 569 and 5451 there a re a few others listed by McMaster. Maybe McMaster pt nos. could be listed here for thread lockers , grease (they have Dow 33!!! 1252K12 $20 for 5.3 ounces (about $4 an ounce) and $315 for a gallon (about $2.50 an ounce) ) they have dow 55 as well just search molykote ** grease number which there are tons of.


A gallon of dow?

Fix a lot of markers. "Now just throw your gun into this bucket, ok it's nice and lubed now. Don't drop it."
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#40 98Pro

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 12:23 AM

Nice idea lol. Maybe that's what dye does, just dip their bolts in Dow. lol. dip your macroline in Dow 33 fill it up with dow and let it go through your system maintain everything.

#41 CrazyLittle

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    That's 65% more bullet, per bullet.

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 05:20 AM

^ that sounds like a terrible idea, lol

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#42 TechPB-Mike

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 07:52 AM

awesome post, had no idea about purple locktite

you think I could use that to hold Willie's mouth shut?

#43 CrazyLittle

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    That's 65% more bullet, per bullet.

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 01:05 PM

*cough* Posted 02 February 2009 - 10:51 AM

:dodgy:

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#44 98Pro

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 02:23 PM

Mike what is your truly favorite lube. Most of your vids show you using Monkey Poo but, what is the best performing in your opinion?

#45 orientalflava

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Posted 26 December 2010 - 02:31 PM

Thanks Crazy, just picked up some 567 for my fittings.

Do you know what type PE uses? I cant seem to get the plug on the ASA off at all, I talked to the previous owner and it seemed to be green loctite.
Any suggestions on how to get it off? I wanted to have the fitting come out of the right side.

#46 CrazyLittle

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    That's 65% more bullet, per bullet.

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 02:52 AM

A lot of the marker manufacturers use a different product that's targeted towards OEMs, and it's the same stuff you find on pre-treated macro fittings that you buy from paintball shops:

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As far as I know, PE either doesn't use any thread locker, or they use loctite red. You just need to muscle it off with force, or heat up the parts to loosen the thread locker. I don't recommend using heat except as a last resort. Also, make sure that you don't mark up the ASA with whatever tools you're using.

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#47 98Pro

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 06:46 PM

Use some uber pliers.

#48 Hidden Hippo

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 06:14 PM

Are there any products to use on the macroline itself to prevent leaks where they enter the fitting? I think I've got a slight leak on one of the fittings (if I put my finger around where the macroline enters the fitting the hiss quietens) and was thinking of popping something there to stop it.

#49 Maj Tom

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 09:24 PM

Are there any products to use on the macroline itself to prevent leaks where they enter the fitting? I think I've got a slight leak on one of the fittings (if I put my finger around where the macroline enters the fitting the hiss quietens) and was thinking of popping something there to stop it.

Replace the o-ring inside the fitting.

#50 bt4max

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 05:13 PM

Nice post, Dangerous Power uses RED LOCTITE for their 90 degree fitting (On G4's), I have no idea what they are thinking...




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