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#1 BMValentine

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 02:49 AM

As those who've seen my sig will know, I use a Cyborg RX. There's just two thing about it that I'd like to know how to resolve.

First is a minor problem, but I'd like to have it fixed anyway. There's a leak coming from the elbow on the Gladiator reg, due to what I can only describe as a "hole" in the thread sealant. I have no idea what brand of thread sealant MacDev uses on these. It is, however, a sort of very pale brown, almost cream colored sealant (I'll see if I can provide a pic, but my camera fails at the moment). If anyone could tell me how to remove that elbow and the sealant without breaking anything (Yes i'm paranoid), and perhaps suggest the type of Loctite I should use on it (I know what red Loctite does, so don't try it :P) I would be very grateful.

Second issue. Preferably, a Cyborg should sound something like the one in the first post of this thread:

http://www.techpb.co...w...c=5405&st=0

However, I figure probably due to the way it's tuned right now, mine sounds like a car hitting a dumpster (i.e. loud). A friend (qualified MD tech at that :P) told me the correct way to tune it was to set the HPR to 180-190, and then chrono from the LPR. However, since I don't have a gauge on my RX, it's a little difficult to guess where 180-190 is. If anyone has their RX shooting quietly, it would be great to know how far in your HPR is screwed in. Just as a yardstick, it would be great if you could use this method to measure it, so I can do the same thing when setting my screw:

1. Get an allen key that fits the brass screw at the bottom of the reg.
2. Put it in by the long end.
3. Get a pencil and mark the point where it's even with the end of the reg.
4. Take out the allen and measure from the end of the long section of the allen key to the pencil marking you made in centimeters.
5. Post it here.
6. ???
7. Profit! :D


Thanks very much in advance.

#2 Z3R0

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 03:42 PM

Get an ASA, put a 0-1000PSI or even 0-300PSI gauge onto it, and screw your reg into it, then put some air through the reg and adjust it to your 180-190PSI mark.

-Z3R0

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#3 slinkyaroo

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 03:58 PM

Isn't there a bonnet with a built in guage out there? ASA female and ASA male with guage port. I'm sure I've seen some. I'm thinking CP makes it.

Find one of those. They are used for regs without guages.

#4 Z3R0

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 04:10 PM

AKA actually makes those, not sure who else might.

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#5 BMValentine

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:25 PM

Hmm... I'm kinda tight on cash right now...

I've just thought of something - would it be possible to turn everything down, then turn up the HPR until I get the shot feel and sound that I want, then just chrono from the LPR?

#6 Z3R0

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:31 PM

I don't have an RX but I can tell you the gaugeless tuning guide for the older Cyborgs :P.

Put your LPR to roughly flush (maybe about a half turn in from flush), and chronograph with your HPR to pretty much where you want the velocity to be at, and then fine-tune it with your LPR. That's the fastest way. You can also set your LPR to roughly flush and then turn up your HPR until your velocity actually starts dropping, then back it out again until you find the point where adjusting the HPR pressure in either direction will drop your velocity - this is the sweetspot. If the sweetspot velocity is too low (say it's 250FPS and you want 290), turn up your LPR about a half turn or so, and then find the sweetspot again through the HPR. If the sweetspot is too high, then back the LPR off and turn the HPR down, then find the sweetspot again. Keep doing this until the sweetspot velocity is right where you want the velocity to be, or close to it, and then you can just fine-tune it from there using either reg (the LPR will most likely be easier). This method will pretty much get your Cyborg to shoot the best it possibly can - the most efficiently and subsequently about the quietest it can (less air means less noise). You can get it quieter by lowering the HPR pressure and bumping up the LPR and dwell, but that's going to sacrifice a little efficiency and may increase the vibration you feel in the marker when you fire.

-Z3R0

EDIT: Also, you can get a quieter shot by making sure your barrel is well-ported (which the Matchstick does VERY well, heh), and your paint fits it well. I find that underboring gives me a quieter shot, and I'm assuming it's because underboring gives you higher efficiency, which means you can turn your pressures down to get the desired velocity.

And if it's too much trouble for you or it's still too loud, I'd be happy to trade you my 06 Cyborg and PM8 for your RX... :P

Edited by Z3R0, 25 February 2009 - 05:36 PM.

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#7 Pizzaluvr

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:46 PM

Surprised no ones answered this part of the question yet.. But you use Blue Loc-Tite on air fittings. It's temporary, it can be removed with just hand tools. You can get it at Home Depot/Lowes/Maybe even walmart. It's in either a red tube with blue label or blue tube. Just put a drop of it on the threads and screw it in.

Edited by Pizzaluvr, 25 February 2009 - 05:52 PM.


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#8 Z3R0

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:46 PM

Or you can use teflon tape.

-Z3R0

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#9 BMValentine

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:46 PM

Put your LPR to roughly flush (maybe about a half turn in from flush), and chronograph with your HPR to pretty much where you want the velocity to be at, and then fine-tune it with your LPR. That's the fastest way. You can also set your LPR to roughly flush and then turn up your HPR until your velocity actually starts dropping, then back it out again until you find the point where adjusting the HPR pressure in either direction will drop your velocity - this is the sweetspot. If the sweetspot velocity is too low (say it's 250FPS and you want 290), turn up your LPR about a half turn or so, and then find the sweetspot again through the HPR. If the sweetspot is too high, then back the LPR off and turn the HPR down, then find the sweetspot again. Keep doing this until the sweetspot velocity is right where you want the velocity to be, or close to it, and then you can just fine-tune it from there using either reg (the LPR will most likely be easier). This method will pretty much get your Cyborg to shoot the best it possibly can - the most efficiently and subsequently about the quietest it can (less air means less noise). You can get it quieter by lowering the HPR pressure and bumping up the LPR and dwell, but that's going to sacrifice a little efficiency and may increase the vibration you feel in the marker when you fire.

Hey, thanks, that was helpful. Will try it next time I hit the field. :D

EDIT: Also, you can get a quieter shot by making sure your barrel is well-ported (which the Matchstick does VERY well, heh), and your paint fits it well. I find that underboring gives me a quieter shot, and I'm assuming it's because underboring gives you higher efficiency, which means you can turn your pressures down to get the desired velocity.

It's cool - Shift Kit here :P

And if it's too much trouble for you or it's still too loud, I'd be happy to trade you my 06 Cyborg and PM8 for your RX... :P

You know, I'd love to. But I love my RX just a teeny bit more :rolleyes:

EDIT: Yeah, I'm not sure if I want to use teflon tape, since I have heard that shreds can rip off and end up in the reg itself (truth to that?). Also, there's the initial problem of getting the thread sealant that's already there to come off, but I have no idea what kind it is...

Edited by BMValentine, 25 February 2009 - 05:48 PM.


#10 Z3R0

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:47 PM

Well then, with a Shift kit, your RX is going to be pretty damn quiet when you've got it tuned right :P.

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#11 themonkman

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:50 PM

Or you can use teflon tape.

-Z3R0


Many manufacturers say in the manuals not to use teflon tape because if it somehow gets into your air system it can cause a lot of problems. Blue Loctite on the 3-4th thread of the fitting usually does the job beautifully without the mess and frustration.
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