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Dye/Proto Owners Club


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#201 seriouslysilly

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:43 AM

Hey guys, recently picked up a DM7 at a deal I couldn't pass up two days ago. This is my first DM but I've reading the stickies and manual. Like all the markers I've acquired, first thing I have to do is a whole oring rebuild.

Replaced and maintained the orings in the drivetrain and hyper 2. My problem is getting the LPR assembly out. After separating the frame and body, there are 3 holes under the LPR. One (towards rear of marker) is empty and the other two has set screws. I was able to take out the screw that is towards the front of the marker easily. The one in the middle, however, is loctited like crazy! I broke one Allen key already and stripped the screw with the second Allen key. Why is there so much loctite on this screw? Will either buy a tap or take the safe route and send to dye.

My questions are about the 3 holes . What are they each for and why was one empty? Also, the silver cylinder that sits above the HPR that has something to do with the on/off. There is also a threaded hole through it. I would assume that it is to secure it, but I'm not sure. Is a screw supposed to be there as well?

Other than that, the DM is in fantastic shape. Barely been used but hasn't been maintained in a loooooong time. Aired it before the rebuild and had no leaks. No leaks after I replaced the orings that I could but I just want to replace the orings in the LPR body as well.

Thanks!

#202 erg993

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 05:57 PM

One of the holes at the rear of the frame (I believe the rear hole) should be very tiny and is used to hold the LPR in place, the other should be a bit larger than the LPR set screw and should NOT be removed, or you will experience some serious leaking. The LPR doesn't really need to be removed unless there is a leak. Sure, it is suggested that you clean it after about 15ish cases, but that isn't necessary. After you removed the small screw, remove the LPR cap, then use the allen wrench to back out the LPR all the way. Once the seat is all the way out, continue turning and the whole LPR body should continue to twist out farther than where it should be seated for proper function. You may or may not need pliers to pull it all the way out.

Edited by erg993, 25 November 2012 - 05:57 PM.

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#203 Matrixrail_Louie

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 03:45 PM

My 2012 Reflex Rail! Add me to the members list!!!

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2012 Proto Reflex Rail & Empire z2 for sale- http://www.techpb.co...0

#204 Master_Chief

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 05:21 PM

http://i1308.photobu...5D8303E250B.jpg

My DM12 that was previously owned by the one and only 2012 PBA's MVP- mr Jason Edwards :P

Why not?

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#205 erg993

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:06 PM

Both added.

Is that the stock trigger on the Rail? I can't tell from the picture.

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#206 jacknieland

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:34 PM

My 2009 PMR. Add me maybe?

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#207 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:34 AM

Hey guys I was going to make a thread on this but i figure i'd just ask the dye owners club what they think. The price difference between a DM12 and a DM13 is about 200-300 dollars depending on how much each has been used. i'm weighing paying $200 extra for the extra 3 pods efficiency, do you guys think it is worth it?
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#208 Master_Chief

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:50 AM

Hey guys I was going to make a thread on this but i figure i'd just ask the dye owners club what they think. The price difference between a DM12 and a DM13 is about 200-300 dollars depending on how much each has been used. i'm weighing paying $200 extra for the extra 3 pods efficiency, do you guys think it is worth it?

If you play back, I could justify the difference in price. Personally in my position I'm not ever in a position where efficiency matters but if you play PSP styled play I bet you could get away with the 12.

Why not?

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#209 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:28 PM

I play mostly semi, I play mid more than back, but I do take back corner quite a bit, but the most I shoot is 6-7 pods (easy for my protege). Im sure I could fiddle with the lpr/ dwell for more efficiency,but would it be better to spend the 2-3 hundred dollars for the certainty I can pull about 9-10 pods If I needed. Obviously this is highly personal, But I'm just looking for others opinions
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#210 PEfanboy

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 06:49 PM

Requesting permission to join the Dye/Proto Owners Club?

http://i.imgur.com/nFCwGj2.jpg

Edited by PEfanboy, 19 February 2013 - 07:01 PM.

"So, how many feet per second can you get now?"
"You mean balls per second.."
"...Dammit."

Hey! I reviewed the proto rail. http://www.techpb.co...0

#211 Totes Magotes

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:13 PM

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#212 SOUP

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:24 PM

Dang I miss my pm8, sick marker man.

I've got another em6 on the way, will be my third minion that I've owned. It's basically a pm6 with different milling and the last two I've had shot great.

This club really has died though. Maybe it'll come back to life with a few new members though.

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#213 cybermaniac15

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:32 PM

It had a decent start. Lol

Anyways, welcome guys!

#214 Totes Magotes

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:39 PM

Dang I miss my pm8, sick marker man.

I've got another em6 on the way, will be my third minion that I've owned. It's basically a pm6 with different milling and the last two I've had shot great.

This club really has died though. Maybe it'll come back to life with a few new members though.


Ya ive only had my pm8 a few weeks and i already love how smooth it is. The em6 is also pretty bad ass gun too too bad proto doesn't make them like that anymore.

I tried to find an answer on the forums about the pm8 regs but i couldn't find a clear answer maybe you guys might be able to help.

My question is how many shims are supposed to be on the lpr for the pm8 and whats the order cuz I only count ten shims on mine.

Also what is the correct order and amount of shims that are supposed to be on the hyper3 reg cuz i heard its different from the DMs or even other Protos.

What would happen if im missing shims or have them in the wrong order??


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#215 lukylovespaintballin

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:42 PM

theres supposed to be 11 lpr shims.
and if the shims are out of order it can leak and the velocity goes everywhere like 290, 370, 100 220 .... you get it.

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#216 Totes Magotes

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:54 PM

Thanks.

I will probably call up dye since i only have ten shims

Is there anyway to buy these like maybe at a local paintball shop or would they have to be ordered through dye since I wouldn't want to pay shipping for one shim?
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#217 lukylovespaintballin

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 03:05 PM

Thanks.

I will probably call up dye since i only have ten shims

Is there anyway to buy these like maybe at a local paintball shop or would they have to be ordered through dye since I wouldn't want to pay shipping for one shim?


umm i think you have to call dye. For me they shipped me 2 for only 1.79 for the envelope stamps since i had called multiple times for complaints of broken dye gun and problems with my pm8. (2 years ago) so they knew me quite well then and gave me them free except for the shipping. just hit them up

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#218 Totes Magotes

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 08:43 PM

"10 shims was stock on a M8, but people like to add one to make it more like a DM8. If you would like to order one they are available here: http://shop.dyetacti...-r10210059.html"


I just received this message from DyeTech2 on the dye forums. Does this mean that all PM8 owners with 11 shims added one shim at some point?
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#219 Totes Magotes

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 12:30 AM

Has anyone ever tried using an Eigenring ?


just wondering if it even does anything at all ? Increase in efficiency ? Smoothness?


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#220 SOUP

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:46 AM

I want to try one also, although I don't think it would be needed. I guess they make the marker feel softer and less "kicky" from what I've heard. What happens is when the bolt goes forward the ring moves backwards which makes the marker feel smoother I guess. Makes sense to me, for the price it's worth trying out.

I usually just flip my markers, so I try not to put upgrades in them. Otherwise I'm just loosing money lol

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#221 Totes Magotes

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 01:34 PM

Hmmm I wonder if the difference is really noticeable.

I feel like if anyone was looking to upgrade for a smoother shot/efficiency this would be money much better spent rather than a bwing bolt.

would you agree?
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#222 SOUP

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:17 PM

much better imo. The b-wing bolt is expensive and it doesn't really make much of a difference anyway. If anything I'd do a polished stock fuse bolt and the eigenring. I think that would get you better results. If I keep my minion long enough I may polish the bolt and do the same, it shoots fine as it is though.

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#223 Totes Magotes

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 05:23 PM

What exactly would I need if I wanted to polish my stock bolt , is there some kind of polishing compound I need?

Or are there places that can do it for a reasonable price?
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#224 riceman71

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 10:11 PM

OK new member and heres my new/refurbed 2012 reflex...hell it was only $350 with full warranty :)

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#225 riceman71

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 10:35 PM

OHHH and can I join PLZZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!

#226 Totes Magotes

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 12:59 PM

What exactly would I need if I wanted to polish my stock bolt , is there some kind of polishing compound I need?

Or are there places that can do it for a reasonable price?


Anyone know?
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#227 cybermaniac15

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 03:17 PM

try pootypaintball.com

#228 SOUP

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 03:56 PM

Pooty does good polishing work, or you could try it yourself. You'd need to go slowly and make sure you don't take too much material off the bolt or make it uneven in some spots in the process.

here is one of the best "how too" threads I've seen. Plus he used a fuse bolt which is good for us DM/ PM users.
http://www.pbnation....d.php?t=3621687

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#229 GoG-eXTCy

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 01:19 PM

I am getting a proto rail 2011 verison so count me in bro!
Been Playing Paintball for 2 years.... Also recommend me a New Gun For Under $275!

#230 Totes Magotes

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 01:41 PM

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OK so I used the thread on pbnation that was posted and I have to admit I think it came out pretty good. Took a lot longer than I thought and I believe I spent $15 in materials.

I think the pooty polished bolt wouldn't be bad since you're only paying an additional $15 in labor. Regardless I am still happy with the result. I haven't had a chance to play with the settings but I will post when I do to note any changes.
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#231 SOUP

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 01:51 PM

That looks great man! I really wanna do this also. I'll give it a try this summer if I still have my em6.

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#232 erg993

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 02:53 PM

Wow, been a while since I've checked this... Added those of you who are new.

Thanks for posting that picture of your PM8 Magotes, I'm really tempted to buy one now lol.

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#233 seriouslysilly

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 05:19 PM

Ok, so had some free time and decided to do an oring overhaul on my DM7.
Still had quite a few viton orings in bags from when I had a clone VX and a GT.
Decided to put viton on the drivetrain.

Running stock settings right now and just shot a few (10 paintballs) yesterday.
First was a little low (judging from sound) but the rest sounded normal.
Looking forward to play this Saturday to see how it goes.

#234 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 03:51 PM

Traded my reflex rail away, regretted it. I like the way UL frame too much, it has converted me. My DM13 (oops I mean 11 hehehe) should be here by friday, which coincidentally is my birthday :D
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#235 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 04:34 PM

Well I got the gun. Funny, it wasn't advertised as leaking from the ASA purge and the eye pipe being cracked to the point of them being tripped all the time... asshole. I'm gonna try and make him pay for the parts.
Anywho, its still sexy and feels great in the hands. The trigger is nicely adjusted too
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#236 SOUP

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 04:38 PM

I would do the same, I hate eye pipes. I would rather have a dm6 and just never worry about breaking or replacing eye pipes. Sure they're nice for awhile, but after awhile they get nasty, smudged up, cracked, and what not.

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#237 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 07:12 PM

I would do the same, I hate eye pipes. I would rather have a dm6 and just never worry about breaking or replacing eye pipes. Sure they're nice for awhile, but after awhile they get nasty, smudged up, cracked, and what not.

This is true, but imo dat ul frame makes up for it. I love that thing with a passion. Its so comfy.
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#238 McAwesomeVille

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 09:19 PM

Hey guys can I join? I have a 2011 Proto Rail but i canīt find my camera

#239 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 27 April 2013 - 01:05 AM

I shall be playing with my dm11 for the first time this weekend. Excited forsure!
Update: Took it out to play, was harsh. Went to the chrono range and reset the LPR. It was four and a half turns out, Yikes! got it down to 2.5, changed the gun comepletely. I really wanna see how quiet I can get the thing though. I'm thinking high dwell round 25-27, lower LPR to about 2-1.5 turns out and Hpr at field speed? You guys think that will do much for sound sig?

Edited by asthmaticrhino, 01 May 2013 - 11:47 PM.

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Protip. Buy a shovel. Dig and Pile REPEAT until desired effect is achieved. Builds upper body and character. Bitches love upper body and character.


#240 Jawz

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 07:57 PM

pmr 07/08 manual link is broken.

http://paintballgunm...2009-Manual.pdf

use dat^
3_zpsxumdj9dm.gif

 

 

 


#241 erg993

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 12:07 PM

Yup, I've noticed several links are broken, I'll fix them sometime this week when I'm not as busy with work stuff.

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#242 jakeyc

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 02:53 PM

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This is all i have to do to be in? BTW MY 2011 Proto Reflex Rail i picked up for a steal !
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Paintball Authority NEW JERSEY

#243 Bunneh

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 04:01 PM

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Dye and proto are the best. The tank isn't a dye tank though, only the cover.

#244 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 04:25 PM

There's life! Welcome!
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#245 erg993

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 01:32 PM

jakeyc and Bunneh added.

So guys, I'm thinking of buying a new marker at the end of the summer. I'm thinking of getting an... Ego. My Minion might need a retirement from the airball scene, I'm being to mean to her.

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#246 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 02:11 PM

Awww.. oh well. I guess a minion is kind of heavy by todays standards. My dm11 is my go to airball gun, I use the pump in the woods for the most part. Although I am trying to pick up a cocker and a mag :)
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#247 erg993

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 02:30 PM

It's not so much the weight as it is the overall profile, the lack of a good aftermarket board available, and how I feel about beating it up. If I got an Ego, I wouldn't care so much about the cosmetic damage lol.

Edited by erg993, 09 June 2013 - 02:30 PM.

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#248 asthmaticrhino

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 07:56 PM

Thats very true. I baby my DM but I pass my etek around more than the village whore. Once I got my 11 tuned the way I like it, I was just like, "yeah, keeping this thing for a long while"  :D. thinking about popping an eigenring in it, but I like how it shoots so much now Its hard to imagine it getting better.


Edited by asthmaticrhino, 26 June 2013 - 07:57 PM.

Feedback: +3/0/0 Etek 3 LT LNIB

Protip. Buy a shovel. Dig and Pile REPEAT until desired effect is achieved. Builds upper body and character. Bitches love upper body and character.


#249 Jawz

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 09:37 PM

IMG_5310.jpg?t=1370633278
IMG_5315.jpg?t=1370633504
This is all i have to do to be in? BTW MY 2011 Proto Reflex Rail i picked up for a steal !

I used to have this beauty! 

 

 

I'll add a pic of my 17 pmr later tonight


3_zpsxumdj9dm.gif

 

 

 


#250 bassfisher

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 07:04 PM

Revive I guess..... Just bought a reflex rail. Black and clear or whatever the color is called.
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