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Electro-Pneumatic Tippy


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#1 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 05:26 PM

So, since no one really has a cheap GTA or Psychoballistics Ebolt, and I can't fit an egrip inside my current tippy 98 due to the way the sear is set up, how may one go to modding it to be similar to an ion? Extensive googling hasn't really helped, so I just need a list of ingredients.

Here's what I was thinking:


Some bolt from a non-stacktube electro
a new grip frame, or custom mod the board, solenoid, and everything else to fit inside the original frame
Pneumatics
LPK
Regulator

Edited by Panda's Revenge, 15 May 2012 - 05:06 PM.


#2 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 11:01 PM

C'mon guise, I really want to do this.

#3 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:44 PM

what tippmann did you have in mind? 98c, A5...? would help if you gave us a list of what you have to work with.
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#4 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 05:07 PM

what tippmann did you have in mind? 98c, A5...? would help if you gave us a list of what you have to work with.

Woops, I forgot, I want a 98. I have absolutely nothing to work with besides a front air mod, allowing a regulator/expansion chamber to fit in the front grip. Money shouldn't be a problem, although I want to keep it under 400. Just for novelty.

Edited by Panda's Revenge, 15 May 2012 - 05:17 PM.


#5 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 05:33 PM


what tippmann did you have in mind? 98c, A5...? would help if you gave us a list of what you have to work with.

Woops, I forgot, I want a 98. I have absolutely nothing to work with besides a front air mod, allowing a regulator/expansion chamber to fit in the front grip. Money shouldn't be a problem, although I want to keep it under 400. Just for novelty.


ok im not exactly sure what you are trying to accomplish here so correct me if im wrong.

, so you want to take a 98, and me it fully electro-pnumatic. aka no sear tripping? that seems like a lot of work, basically you'd have to copy the pnumatic system of another gun and drop it into the tippmann. not too sure how you could do that.

the only thing i can think of be cause it is an inline poppet valve, is to find a way to remove the poppet, to allow air into the gun, then use something like a cockers front noid to actuate the bolt.

idk it seems to me that the only way to do this is to basically make a inline autococker. using an e2 frame or something.
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#6 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 05:58 PM



what tippmann did you have in mind? 98c, A5...? would help if you gave us a list of what you have to work with.

Woops, I forgot, I want a 98. I have absolutely nothing to work with besides a front air mod, allowing a regulator/expansion chamber to fit in the front grip. Money shouldn't be a problem, although I want to keep it under 400. Just for novelty.


ok im not exactly sure what you are trying to accomplish here so correct me if im wrong.

, so you want to take a 98, and me it fully electro-pnumatic. aka no sear tripping? that seems like a lot of work, basically you'd have to copy the pnumatic system of another gun and drop it into the tippmann. not too sure how you could do that.

the only thing i can think of be cause it is an inline poppet valve, is to find a way to remove the poppet, to allow air into the gun, then use something like a cockers front noid to actuate the bolt.

idk it seems to me that the only way to do this is to basically make a inline autococker. using an e2 frame or something.


Yes, exactly what I want to do. I didn't know how to explain it. But yes, no sear-tripping, I don't like that. Thank you very much.

Edited by Panda's Revenge, 15 May 2012 - 06:14 PM.


#7 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:23 PM




what tippmann did you have in mind? 98c, A5...? would help if you gave us a list of what you have to work with.

Woops, I forgot, I want a 98. I have absolutely nothing to work with besides a front air mod, allowing a regulator/expansion chamber to fit in the front grip. Money shouldn't be a problem, although I want to keep it under 400. Just for novelty.


ok im not exactly sure what you are trying to accomplish here so correct me if im wrong.

, so you want to take a 98, and me it fully electro-pnumatic. aka no sear tripping? that seems like a lot of work, basically you'd have to copy the pnumatic system of another gun and drop it into the tippmann. not too sure how you could do that.

the only thing i can think of be cause it is an inline poppet valve, is to find a way to remove the poppet, to allow air into the gun, then use something like a cockers front noid to actuate the bolt.

idk it seems to me that the only way to do this is to basically make a inline autococker. using an e2 frame or something.


Yes, exactly what I want to do. I didn't know how to explain it. But yes, no sear-tripping, I don't like that. Thank you very much.


hmm.... well then i thik you could do it by routing air into a noid, that is set up to 1 constantly push the hammer to the rear. then once the trigger is pulled, pushes the hammer forward (it would be the opposide of what a cockers ram does)

then just adjust the dwell time accordingly and CHA CHING! no more need for a sear.

however! i have no idea on how this could be accompilished myself, but the theroy seems solid! :D

now that i think of it, you may get away with using something like an ion board because if i remember correctly it is a blow forward design. just be sure to use hpa and not CO2
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#8 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:25 PM

and before i forget, you might want to invest in an ultralight hammer because thats a pretty big hunk of metal to be almost free floating in a 98c.

and dont forget to remove the hammer spring!

have fun... (i might try this myself now that i think of it.... hehe)
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#9 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:28 PM

hmm.... well then i thik you could do it by routing air into a noid, that is set up to 1 constantly push the hammer to the rear. then once the trigger is pulled, pushes the hammer forward (it would be the opposide of what a cockers ram does)

then just adjust the dwell time accordingly and CHA CHING! no more need for a sear.

however! i have no idea on how this could be accompilished myself, but the theroy seems solid! :D

now that i think of it, you may get away with using something like an ion board because if i remember correctly it is a blow forward design. just be sure to use hpa and not CO2



That's what I thought, just taking apart an ion and sticking it inside the 98 with a couple cocker parts and bam. And the first time I played with my own gun I used HPA, I was one of those "knowitall" noobs.

#10 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:28 PM

anothing issue may be the cocking handle slot... it would have to be covered otherwise the air needed to push the hammer forward would escape out of that slot and the gun would not work...
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#11 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:31 PM


hmm.... well then i thik you could do it by routing air into a noid, that is set up to 1 constantly push the hammer to the rear. then once the trigger is pulled, pushes the hammer forward (it would be the opposide of what a cockers ram does)

then just adjust the dwell time accordingly and CHA CHING! no more need for a sear.

however! i have no idea on how this could be accompilished myself, but the theroy seems solid! :D

now that i think of it, you may get away with using something like an ion board because if i remember correctly it is a blow forward design. just be sure to use hpa and not CO2



That's what I thought, just taking apart an ion and sticking it inside the 98 with a couple cocker parts and bam. And the first time I played with my own gun I used HPA, I was one of those "knowitall" noobs.



actually if you could find a way to cover up that hammer slot and remove the hammer alltogether. all you would need to do is hook up the ion board properly, and it should work as is. provided you can get it to fit in the frame. you might look into getting a 98c electronic kit and copying the trigger group for the ion board.

:) now if you didnt want to fool with that slot, just grab an a5 and do the same thing to it, its already fully enclosed anyway. :D
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#12 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:41 PM



hmm.... well then i thik you could do it by routing air into a noid, that is set up to 1 constantly push the hammer to the rear. then once the trigger is pulled, pushes the hammer forward (it would be the opposide of what a cockers ram does)

then just adjust the dwell time accordingly and CHA CHING! no more need for a sear.

however! i have no idea on how this could be accompilished myself, but the theroy seems solid! :D

now that i think of it, you may get away with using something like an ion board because if i remember correctly it is a blow forward design. just be sure to use hpa and not CO2



That's what I thought, just taking apart an ion and sticking it inside the 98 with a couple cocker parts and bam. And the first time I played with my own gun I used HPA, I was one of those "knowitall" noobs.



actually if you could find a way to cover up that hammer slot and remove the hammer alltogether. all you would need to do is hook up the ion board properly, and it should work as is. provided you can get it to fit in the frame. you might look into getting a 98c electronic kit and copying the trigger group for the ion board.

:) now if you didnt want to fool with that slot, just grab an a5 and do the same thing to it, its already fully enclosed anyway. :D


True, but I just want to put a pneumatic there for looks. haha I'll see what happens.

#13 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:45 PM




hmm.... well then i thik you could do it by routing air into a noid, that is set up to 1 constantly push the hammer to the rear. then once the trigger is pulled, pushes the hammer forward (it would be the opposide of what a cockers ram does)

then just adjust the dwell time accordingly and CHA CHING! no more need for a sear.

however! i have no idea on how this could be accompilished myself, but the theroy seems solid! :D

now that i think of it, you may get away with using something like an ion board because if i remember correctly it is a blow forward design. just be sure to use hpa and not CO2



That's what I thought, just taking apart an ion and sticking it inside the 98 with a couple cocker parts and bam. And the first time I played with my own gun I used HPA, I was one of those "knowitall" noobs.



actually if you could find a way to cover up that hammer slot and remove the hammer alltogether. all you would need to do is hook up the ion board properly, and it should work as is. provided you can get it to fit in the frame. you might look into getting a 98c electronic kit and copying the trigger group for the ion board.

:) now if you didnt want to fool with that slot, just grab an a5 and do the same thing to it, its already fully enclosed anyway. :D


True, but I just want to put a pneumatic there for looks. haha I'll see what happens.


?? for looks... what would be the point of having a fully electro-pnumatic tippmann if the pnumatics didnt function? other than for the lols of corse?
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#14 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:50 PM

?? for looks... what would be the point of having a fully electro-pnumatic tippmann if the pnumatics didnt function? other than for the lols of corse?



I meant like throw the ion board in it, and it works, and then slap on an autococker pneumatic that doesn't do anything for the lols.

#15 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 06:57 PM


?? for looks... what would be the point of having a fully electro-pnumatic tippmann if the pnumatics didnt function? other than for the lols of corse?



I meant like throw the ion board in it, and it works, and then slap on an autococker pneumatic that doesn't do anything for the lols.



oh ok i see. lol

well i believe it can be done. if you can close off the hammer slot.

personally, i think im gonna try to do this with my old broken A5
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#16 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:02 PM



?? for looks... what would be the point of having a fully electro-pnumatic tippmann if the pnumatics didnt function? other than for the lols of corse?



I meant like throw the ion board in it, and it works, and then slap on an autococker pneumatic that doesn't do anything for the lols.



oh ok i see. lol

well i believe it can be done. if you can close off the hammer slot.

personally, i think im gonna try to do this with my old broken A5


Shweet, good luck.
Now to get my hands on an ion board...

#17 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:08 PM




?? for looks... what would be the point of having a fully electro-pnumatic tippmann if the pnumatics didnt function? other than for the lols of corse?



I meant like throw the ion board in it, and it works, and then slap on an autococker pneumatic that doesn't do anything for the lols.



oh ok i see. lol

well i believe it can be done. if you can close off the hammer slot.

personally, i think im gonna try to do this with my old broken A5


Shweet, good luck.
Now to get my hands on an ion board...


check the bst, everyone has an one they are parting out, i have a seventh element board thats got a short in it, but the air still flows right so i'm gonna try to use it for a mock up.
they are pretty cheap tho so you might beable to grab a new one for a reasonable price.

if i can mock up a location scheme for the board and hoseing, i'll be sure to post pics
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#18 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:19 PM

ok so an ion board doesnt exactly just drop right into an tippmanns frame. (i imagine anouther smaller board set up to lay flat would be easier to you) but the concept remains the same.

will do some more looking into this.
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#19 Mephisto

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:30 PM

i think i have a better idea for you, what you are tryng to do is turn a 98 into an x7 phenom. for $399 currently (ANS Gear) id take your $400 budget and get the phenom, this project seems to be more trouble then its worth.
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#20 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:38 PM

i think i have a better idea for you, what you are tryng to do is turn a 98 into an x7 phenom. for $399 currently (ANS Gear) id take your $400 budget and get the phenom, this project seems to be more trouble then its worth.


But it's for lolz... Or a sleeper, ya know, come in jeans and a tshirt, JT 2 pod belt, sneakers, and a rental mask with the EP 98.

#21 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:58 PM

ok so an ion board doesnt exactly just drop right into an tippmanns frame. (i imagine anouther smaller board set up to lay flat would be easier to you) but the concept remains the same.

will do some more looking into this.


Well if it works out, be sure to post pics. I'll be posting too once I start work. Thanks for all the help!

#22 WiscoBaller

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 10:57 PM

just get the psychoballistics ebolt kit, e2 frame, and build it that way.

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#23 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:20 PM

just get the psychoballistics ebolt kit, e2 frame, and build it that way.

but it's sooooo essspensiiiivveeeee, I couldn't find the Psychoballistics ebolt which is why I went this way. If I found an ebolt kit I would've went that way.

#24 KCMECustoms

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:29 PM

If your budget is 400 then just get an ebolt. MCB or 98owners is the best place to get an ebolt

Edited by KCMECustoms, 15 May 2012 - 11:30 PM.


#25 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:33 PM

If your budget is 400 then just get an ebolt. MCB or 98owners is the best place to get an ebolt


Been lurking Model98.org but most posts are from long ago in the year 2011. I haven't found anything on 98OG and I don't have enough credits to post in the buyers group anyways. I'll check MCB though.

#26 junits15

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 05:43 PM

if you have access to a lathe, an ebolt wouldn't be hard to fabricate. Its basically just a ram
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#27 Dave1234

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 07:52 AM

Well ive heard of a company called pb metal mods that could prolly help you out.

#28 Panda's Revenge

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 05:05 PM

Well ive heard of a company called pb metal mods that could prolly help you out.


Sounds good... Thanks!




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