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Automag crash course


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#1 get.lit.up!

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:00 AM

Was just curious about automags and don't want to go thru all of the threads on mcb. Heck i may even pick one up when I get the cash
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#2 PBpancake

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:41 AM

Stop being lazy. Look at the threads on MCB. It's worth it.

I wlll say this: 'Mags are fucking AWESOME.

#3 get.lit.up!

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:31 AM

:( there are so many thread
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#4 Dev.

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 12:42 PM

Automags are pretty much blow forward sear tripping spool valve guns. They (Airgun Designs), went thriough a few prototypes before coming to the automag 68 classic. It had a level 5 bolt at the time with the original classic valves.. They all had powerfeeds to reduce blowback to the ballstack. Mags at the time chopped like crazy. The feed plug along with the bolt were improved later on to reduce chopping. Mags now had the level 7 bolt which in my experience work perfectly fine aslong as you dont outshot your hopper. Im pretty sure minimags came out soon after the 68 mags did. Minimags are just 68 mags with a machinegun like shroud. As technology progressed, rt valves came out as paintball was transitioning between co2 to hpa. With high enough output pressures from the tank, these rt valves could shoot up to 30+ bps with progressively higher output pressures from the tank. These rt valves could only be used with hpa and the first ones still had level 7 bolts. As you can imagine, high rof with a level 7 bolt which still chops would be disastrous at the time since they only had revvys. The mags at the time that utilized these valves were the rt classics and rt pros. Rt classics had their own proprietary parts and were not interchangeable with previous mags. The rt pros on the other hand had parts swappable with previous mags. As time progressed agd came out with the emags. These were normal mags that just had egrip like lowers on it. cockerpunk has a video on how they work. Then the xmag along with the lateset valve, the xvalve and the level 10 bolt came out in the early 2000s. The level 10 was a low force bolt that when tuned right virtually could not chop. With the xvalve, it was just the old rt valves but made out of aluminum instead of stainless steel, so it was a hell of alot lighter. The xmags were just lighter emags that sometimes had eyes installed. (A.C.E) I could go into much more detail but I typed all this with a phone and my thumbs hurt now. If you have any questions just ask. Sorry for all the typos, Ill fix it when i get on a computer.

Edited by Dev., 20 August 2012 - 01:57 PM.

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#5 get.lit.up!

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:18 PM

So is the xvalve considered a marker or upgrade? And the xvalve also has a reponse trigger then right? What threads do the mags use? Also good write up dev!

Edited by get.lit.up!, 20 August 2012 - 07:19 PM.

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#6 Lime

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:21 PM

So is the xvalve considered a marker or upgrade? And the xvalve also has a reponse trigger then right? What threads do the mags use? Also good write up dev!


Newer mags use cocker threads, older ones use their own weird ass thing.

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#7 Dev.

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:47 PM

Older ones use a twist lock barrel. An x-valve is an upgrade. The x-valve does have a response trigger sort of integrated in it. It's basically an rt valve that is made out of aluminum instead of stainless steal. I have a video of my micromag with an x-valve and SHP tank going nuts here.
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THese two are automag valves that I own. The top one is an x-valve with the level 10 bolt, the bottom one is a standard classic valve and the level 7 bolt is out of the picture. I don't have an rt valve though. Also, e-mag valves are another valve you might come across. These are mechanically identical to the rt valve.....they just have e-mag on it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i73r4JdMhVI&feature=plcp


Any other questions?

Edited by Dev., 20 August 2012 - 07:50 PM.

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#8 get.lit.up!

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:17 PM

Yes, so what mag would be a newer one with xvalve and cocker threads in it but still mechanical? I'm so tempted to just look at prices for one after I finish my phantom oc pump project :) since these are are presumably better than tippys
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#9 LUXOR54

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:23 PM

i know that prevail has one automag twist lock barrel..

your not getting an automag untill you buy my halo :angry:
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#10 Dev.

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:34 PM

Yes, so what mag would be a newer one with xvalve and cocker threads in it but still mechanical? I'm so tempted to just look at prices for one after I finish my phantom oc pump project :) since these are are presumably better than tippys


You can buy an automag new from AGD, but I wouldn't advise that as you can get the same exact thing for cheaper used. Look on MCB or automags.org, even here on techpb. Mags are everywhere. Look for ule (ultra light engineering) bodies with the valve that has a huge X on it. All automags are mechanical except the e-mags, x-mags, and some have special custom made e-grips. Automags crush tippmanns. Go on elitedealseeker.com and type in automag. Make sure you pick 28 days though so you get the most results. There are plenty of really nice automags with ule bodies and x-valves. Automags are very very modular. It's a rare occasion that you find two that are the same.

Edited by Dev., 20 August 2012 - 10:36 PM.

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#11 get.lit.up!

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:45 PM

i know that prevail has one automag twist lock barrel..

your not getting an automag untill you buy my halo :angry:

Lol just gift for bday, You may like what I have I'm mind for yours.

Also dev thanks for the advice I will have to see how much it will run me first lol, but I'm probably not going to drop any more than $200 on it

Edited by get.lit.up!, 20 August 2012 - 10:48 PM.

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#12 Dev.

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 12:37 AM

You most likely won't find a x-valve/ule bodied mag for under 200. Maybe a rt classic..maybe.

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#13 get.lit.up!

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 06:52 AM

Yea I'm just surfing and they are like $300+, is there any older bodies that accost cocker threads or is the ule the first one to?
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#14 LUXOR54

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 08:09 AM


i know that prevail has one automag twist lock barrel..

your not getting an automag untill you buy my halo :angry:

Lol just gift for bday, You may like what I have I'm mind for yours.


aww shucks ^_^
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#15 Dev.

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 11:21 AM

For older bodies such as the 68 classic and minimag stainless steel bodies, you would need to get a twistlock to cocker adaptor such as Doc's. You can sometimes find them on MCB or Ebay..places like that. All cocker threaded bodies for mags are usually expensive.

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#16 get.lit.up!

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 06:44 PM

Xvalves y u cost $150+?
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#17 No Mercy Ever

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 01:28 PM

Fairly accurate. Updates in red.

Automags are pretty much blow forward sear tripping spool valve guns. They (Airgun Designs), went thriough a few prototypes before coming to the automag 68 classic. It had a level 5 bolt at the time with the original classic valves.. They all had powerfeeds Incorrect. They came in right and left feed, the Powerfeed was an option, but not a permanent addition. to reduce blowback to the ballstack. Mags at the time chopped like crazy. Again, incorrect. They could, but they didn't always. The feed plug along with the bolt were improved later on to reduce chopping. Mags now had the level 7 bolt which in my experience work perfectly fine aslong as you dont outshot your hopper. Im pretty sure minimags came out soon after the 68 mags did. Minimags are just 68 mags with a machinegun like shroud. Incorrect, as they also came standard with a Powerfeed body, as well as they came with a Vert ASA. The Vert ASA was an option that you could purchase for your Mag. As technology progressed, rt valves came out as paintball was transitioning between co2 to hpa. With high enough output pressures from the tank, these rt valves could shoot up to 30+ bps with progressively higher output pressures from the tank. These rt valves could only be used with hpa and the first ones still had level 7 bolts. As you can imagine, high rof with a level 7 bolt which still chops would be disastrous at the time since they only had revvys. The mags at the time that utilized these valves were the rt classics and rt pros. Rt classics had their own proprietary parts and were not interchangeable with previous mags. The rt pros on the other hand had parts swappable with previous mags. As time progressed agd came out with the emags. These were normal mags that just had egrip like lowers on it. cockerpunk has a video on how they work. Then the xmag along with the lateset valve, the xvalve and the level 10 bolt came out in the early 2000s. The level 10 was a low force bolt that when tuned right virtually could not chop. With the xvalve, it was just the old rt valves but made out of aluminum instead of stainless steel, so it was a hell of alot lighter. The xmags were just lighter emags that sometimes had eyes installed. (A.C.E) I could go into much more detail but I typed all this with a phone and my thumbs hurt now. If you have any questions just ask. Sorry for all the typos, Ill fix it when i get on a computer.


Mars really are great. I have had a couple of them.

As stated, they use a twist lock barrel. You still find plenty of twist lock barrels as well. They also used a wire nubbin for a detent. The wire nubbins's almost never wore out. Some other higher end markers used wire nubbins, like the AKA stuff. It's the ULE bodies that you can use Cocker threaded barrels with. If I remember correctly, they use Angel threaded, or maybe it's ICD threaded, feednecks.

A very simple marker that you could use forever. Although not the most air efficient.

#18 get.lit.up!

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:58 PM

I've heard with an efficiency insert you could get 1500+ off a 68/4.5k
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#19 Dev.

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 06:06 PM

Fairly accurate. Updates in red.


Automags are pretty much blow forward sear tripping spool valve guns. They (Airgun Designs), went thriough a few prototypes before coming to the automag 68 classic. It had a level 5 bolt at the time with the original classic valves.. They all had powerfeeds Incorrect. They came in right and left feed, the Powerfeed was an option, but not a permanent addition. to reduce blowback to the ballstack. Mags at the time chopped like crazy. Again, incorrect. They could, but they didn't always. The feed plug along with the bolt were improved later on to reduce chopping. Mags now had the level 7 bolt which in my experience work perfectly fine aslong as you dont outshot your hopper. Im pretty sure minimags came out soon after the 68 mags did. Minimags are just 68 mags with a machinegun like shroud. Incorrect, as they also came standard with a Powerfeed body, as well as they came with a Vert ASA. The Vert ASA was an option that you could purchase for your Mag. As technology progressed, rt valves came out as paintball was transitioning between co2 to hpa. With high enough output pressures from the tank, these rt valves could shoot up to 30+ bps with progressively higher output pressures from the tank. These rt valves could only be used with hpa and the first ones still had level 7 bolts. As you can imagine, high rof with a level 7 bolt which still chops would be disastrous at the time since they only had revvys. The mags at the time that utilized these valves were the rt classics and rt pros. Rt classics had their own proprietary parts and were not interchangeable with previous mags. The rt pros on the other hand had parts swappable with previous mags. As time progressed agd came out with the emags. These were normal mags that just had egrip like lowers on it. cockerpunk has a video on how they work. Then the xmag along with the lateset valve, the xvalve and the level 10 bolt came out in the early 2000s. The level 10 was a low force bolt that when tuned right virtually could not chop. With the xvalve, it was just the old rt valves but made out of aluminum instead of stainless steel, so it was a hell of alot lighter. The xmags were just lighter emags that sometimes had eyes installed. (A.C.E) I could go into much more detail but I typed all this with a phone and my thumbs hurt now. If you have any questions just ask. Sorry for all the typos, Ill fix it when i get on a computer.


Mars really are great. I have had a couple of them.

As stated, they use a twist lock barrel. You still find plenty of twist lock barrels as well. They also used a wire nubbin for a detent. The wire nubbins's almost never wore out. Some other higher end markers used wire nubbins, like the AKA stuff. It's the ULE bodies that you can use Cocker threaded barrels with. If I remember correctly, they use Angel threaded, or maybe it's ICD threaded, feednecks.

A very simple marker that you could use forever. Although not the most air efficient.


Excuse me for the inaccuracies, I had to type that all out with a phone, was too lazy to type out the right feed and left feed, etc etc.

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#20 No Mercy Ever

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 06:09 PM

Oh, you really did quite a bit of good info there. Just a couple of things. Having owned a MiniMag, and very happy with it, I do kind of miss it. But now, I have MicroMag with a X-Valve and Lvl 10.

#21 Pyrate Jim

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 06:33 PM

I've heard with an efficiency insert you could get 1500+ off a 68/4.5k


Yeah, good luck with that. I'll believe it when I see it.
AutoMags are gashogs, you need the highest input possible to make them run correctly.
To explain why would take a longer post.

The best thing about an AutoMag is the ease of operation. There are only 5 moving parts and it can be completely rebuilt with no tools.
Beyond that, the AutoMag was one of the top two tournament guns for more than 10 years before electros came out.
Even today (in the age of eletronics) an AutoMag is still one of the top-level mechanicals on the market.
This would explain why you don't see them or the major parts for them at a low cost even buying used - there's nothing that can go bad other than a few O-rings or a rusty spring.

The twist-lock barrel was unique to AGD, and the quickest way to take off a barrel for a pull-through cleaning.
You couldn't do a pull-through with the barrel on the gun, and having an AutoCocker thread adapter was a lot slower to clean out even though it gave you a wider variety of barrels to choose from.
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#22 get.lit.up!

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 01:42 PM

Here is the link to it on pbn

http://www.pbnation....d.php?t=3647839

But holy shit the prices for a good mag is outragous, unlike a classic 68 one... Would be worth owning a 68 classic?
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#23 Algae

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:54 AM

The reason a good mag is expensive is because someone custom built it. But they are utterly and completely worth it.

I own three mags, and have not regretted purchasing a single one. If you need proof, ask sticktodrum. He's been drooling over one of my mags for a year or so now.

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#24 get.lit.up!

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 11:31 PM

Forget the red mag, how does that mag pump shoot?
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#25 p8ntballin007

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 02:28 PM

The first picture is the only pump mag shown.
The second is a Minimag body with a E-mag valve and a Y-Frame grip
The third is ULE Body with a RT Pro X-Valve on it and a standard Intelli-frame grip.

Quick info-
Bodies
Basically if the body is Stainless its going to take The twist loc Barrels specific to Automags and if the body is Aluminum its going to take Autococker threaded barrels. Caution for Classic RT Bodies, they only work with the Classic RT valves/rails unless they are heavily modified.

Valves
Classic Valves - Minimag, 68 Automag, - Can run CO2, no RT, Made of Stainless, accepts level 10 bolt
Classic RT Valves - RT Classic - Can't run on CO2, Only work with Classic RT Bodies, doesn't accept level 10 (I think)
RT Valves - RT Pro (Early) and E-mags (Early) - Can't use CO2, RT, Made of Stainless, Accepts level 10 bolt
X-Valves - RT Pro (Late), E-mags (Late), and X-Mags - No CO2, RT, Level 10 stock, Made of Aluminum, most were black some came in colors but are rare.

For a history on all of this, check out the AGD virtual museum http://www.airgundes...usa.com/museum/
Or go on AO (before it crashes) Automags.org

Mags are still one of my favorite markers out there. A friend of mine put his in the closet 11 years ago, last year i bought it from him and gassed it up without any dissassembly or cleaning and it cycled perfectly. That Autococker back you bought from me was actually from the Emag in my Sig.



#26 Algae

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 08:31 PM

Forget the red mag, how does that mag pump shoot?


Incredibly well. The pump stroke is almost nothing, and you can use any barrel you want. Because it's an open bolt pump you can rely on your detents. If you don't feel like playing pump for the day, all you have to do is pull out the wave spring, et voila, you have an automag you can shoot in semi.

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#27 Hitech

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 03:35 PM

No one mentioned the hyperframed mags...





#28 Jaccen

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 08:22 PM

If the cost of a 'mag seems high, start off with a basic Classic. The joy, and curse, of Automags is that you can upgrade any part whenever you want. When you're done your upgrades, you're usually left with another fully functional 'mag.

CAUTION: Automags multiple faster than rabbits on Viagra.

Once you buy your first one, you'll understand that statement ;)

#29 elraido

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 02:33 PM

I will say this. I own a classic, my friend owns 3 classics and an RT Pro. Save up and spend the extra money on an RT Pro. The reactive trigger is will worth it. Not only that but the stock body and grips are very comfortable. The RT absolutly rips. You find the sweet spot on the trigger where it bounces off your finger and it just brings a smile to your face.

#30 drg

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 02:49 AM

Get a PF classic with level 10, good place to start.
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#31 Deftone

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:12 AM

If I remember right back in the 90's Pro Team Products had their FX Micro Mags that they made the bodies for and they used cocker barrels and not the standard twist lock Mag barrel..They also made them in power feed and vert feeds. And IMHO they were ugly as freakin sin, lol... I owned a few Mags back in the day, I was never a huge fan myself, I was always more of a cocker guy for a number of reasons.

#32 Njt11

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 09:29 PM

Bottom line mag's are great you have to pick one up for your self to experience this. I promise if you get one you will not regret it they can achieve amazing rates of fire and there is no electronics to go bad. If you didn't enjoy it their resale value is great so there would be no problem getting your money back. Pick one up and join the automag community!!!

p.s good information on the the manufacturer's website http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/

Edited by Njt11, 12 February 2013 - 09:33 PM.


#33 dosh

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 03:18 PM

Yes, so what mag would be a newer one with xvalve and cocker threads in it but still mechanical? I'm so tempted to just look at prices for one after I finish my phantom oc pump project :) since these are are presumably better than tippys



There's no presumption involved. The 68 classic was an almost completely stainless steel gun designed to last a lifetime. They were one of a four options for a tournament gun when I started. The othet three were autocockers, shoebox shockers, and angels. Tippmans were around but they were guns for casual players, just like they are today.

From what I've seen on AGD's site the last few times I visited it's 'build your mag'. You select the parts they offer, they send you a gun. So if you pick a TAC or UL body and an X valve you get cocker threads and an X valve. They are all mechanical.

Edited by dosh, 24 March 2013 - 03:18 PM.





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