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Vapor Tuning Guide

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 01:57 PM

I've been getting so many questions about properly tuning the Vapor that I've decided to make an official thread that I can point people to. I'll keep this as up to date as possible.

V2 Parts (such as the flat-faced bolt for small-bore paint, dual oring ASA Core, etc.) Are provided to Vapor owners free of charge. Simply Register your marker, and then send an email to Tech@MachinePaintball.com

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Part 1: Routine Maintenance

99% of problems that I've encountered are caused by silly mistakes and/or user error. That being said, Maintenance should be the largest concern for any owner. Take care of your marker and it'll take care of you.

I've put almost 23 cases of paint through my vapor so far. The last 5 cases have been for testing different lubricants alone. Here are my findings:

Any lube that's thinner than Marmalade, but thicker than Eclipse oil will work just fine. DOW55 isn't my favorite because this marker will perform just fine without having to swell the orings. I prefer to use a thin coat of Monkeypoo, a medium coat of DOW33, or a medium-heavy coat of Hater. GunSav, while silky smooth, gets flung off too quickly. Feel free to use it, but be aware most of it will end up in your barrel after a single round and the increase in friction could cause your marker fire improperly.

Now, on to maintenance.

After every weekend of play: Pull out the drivetrain; unscrew the front can and remove the bolt. Wipe down all orings with a microfiber and then relube with whatever floats your boat. Personally, I take each oring out and clean each oring groove as well as each oring. That way, I know the same amount of pressure is being applied to each part of the oring (IE no globs of lube are deforming the oring, which can cause orings to wear unevenly). Breech orings as well as the can oring are all 017s. I also stretch 017 orings around the outside of the drivetrain to seal against the body instead of using 018s. The power tube should use two 013 orings. The bolt sail should be an 016, with an 015/90 bumper in front of it and the rear bumper should be a 2x14. There's no reason to fiddle with the valve orings unless your efficiency suddenly drops to 5 pods off of a 68/45.

If you break paint: Do the maintenance procedure for every weekend, and then remove the eye covers. Clean the eyes with a q-tip or microfiber, and be sure to clean out the detents to make sure they don't stick. I recommend popping each detent out by pushing the spring/piston out via the access/vent hole. An oring pick fits in there nicely... Also be sure to get all of the paint out of the eye housing area, because your eye covers may not lock fully if there are flakes of shell in there.

Every other month (at least once per season): Unscrew your HPR. Disassemble and check orings and reg seat for wear. Relube and reassemble. Refer to the bottom of this post for the Breakdown Guide if you're confused about what goes where. BE SURE TO USE A PADDED VICE to remove the top part of the reg. You may also use an allen key to remove the top part, but remember that you'll need to make sure to loosen said screw slightly later. If your marker starts acting up after rebuilding the reg, it's most likely because there's a leak within the HPR, see the Troubleshooting Section for more info.

Part 2: Tuning Guide

Tuning the vapor is really simple, thanks to the included APE board. Here's how I go about tuning to get the most consistant performance possible.

** if you're tuning for the first time, I recommend you replace all of the orings on your drivetrain so they all break in together. You should be fine with the included orings, but my OCD gets the better of me sometimes.

~First off, clean and lube your drivetrain (See Routine Maintenance post).
~Once you're absolutely sure your drivetrain is spotless, set your dwell to 15, adjust the feather touch screw to whatever feels best for you, and then chrono your marker to 280 FPS.
~Run Tune Assist. Your marker will most likely dry-fire consistently (but quitely) at around 8-10ms. I recommend you go 1ms higher for consistency (slightly louder shot, but you won't get FSDO)
~Once your dwell is set, your Vapor will dial in the bolt return.
~After your marker restarts, go back into the programming menu.
~Up your Bolt Return by 4-8ms for consistency. (27-35ms?)
~While you're in the programming menu, set your Breech Delay to 5ms, and your Eye Mode to STD. I recommend STD for Eye Process as well, but it's your choice.
~Add paint and re-chrono your marker. You should now have one of the smoothest shooting vapors on the block. You're welcome ;)

Part 3: Troubleshooting/Problem Solving

~HELP! My eye covers are falling off!
My eye-cover fix is at the bottom of this post.

~HELP! My marker is firing randomly and it sounds REALLY loud when it shoots.
Your marker is over-pressurizing. That means that your HPR needs to be rebuilt. Refer to my Breakdown Guide below if you're confused about what goes where. Most likely, there's a leak in one of two places; unscrew the velocity adjustment screw on the bottom of the HPR and ensure that the top oring is in good condition. The other location that could cause this leak is from the hex-screw at the top of the HPR (the screw that is hidden once you screw the reg onto the body). This is connected to a transfer case that routes air through the reg. If this is mis-aligned, it can cause unregulated air to bypass the reg and overpressureize your marker. The fix is to turn the screw as far counter-clockwise as possible, and then turn it clockwise one half of a full turn. If that doesn't work, take the top of the reg off and check to make sure the orings are all intact.

~Ehh....my marker is chopping paint....
First of all, put in a BRAND NEW BATTERY. Then, make sure they both your Eye Mode and Eye Process are set to Standard.
I recommend you increase your bolt delay as well as your breech delay by a few miliseconds. (bolt delay should be between 25 and 35ms, breech delay should be between 4 and 8ms)
Also, check your detents to make sure they move freely. It would also be wise to make sure your barrel is spotless and there's no gunk in your loader's feedneck.
I have a theory as to another chopping issue, but I'm still in the works of proving it; If you tighten the 'feather touch' screw in all the way, the bolt takes too long to return to the idle position, and paintballs can be clipped when the loader pushes them into the breech. Try loosening your feather touch screw by 1 1/2 turns and see if this fixes the issue (and tell me if it works!)

~How the hell do you use an APE board?
APE boards are some of the easiest boards to use. The menu tree is a little big, but for the amount of customization you can do, it's totally worth the price. To enter the programming menu, hold the trigger down while powering the marker on. Once you're in the programming menu, click the trigger quickly to scroll down through the options. To 'select' an option, hold the trigger down for a half-second. To adjust a setting, hit the power button to raise a value, or hit the eye button to lower a value. To go back a branch, click the trigger until you see a little black arrow in the top left. hold the trigger down and it'll go back. If you want to exit out, keep clicking the trigger until you see a small X in the top right of the screen. hold the trigger and your marker will restart.

~Weird....my reg logo is 90* to one side
~My Reg has this huge gap between the Reg and the Frame
This happens when you crank on the reg without air being in the marker. Don't treat your reg like a throttle and it won't happen again!
Now for the fix: unscrew your reg, and put the silver top in a padded vice (or stick an allen key in the hex-hole on top) unscrew the top bonnet by at least 1/2 a turn. (if you used the allen key method, try to turn the small screw back 1 full turn, otherwise your reg might over pressurize) Take the two top orings off and put the reg back on your marker; turn until the logo lines up where you want it to. Wait for the threadlock to set and then put your orings back on. If it REALLY bugs you, take the silver piece all the way off and put a SMALL drop of BLUE threadlock on and it won't budge again.

~AHH! There's a puff of air on my hand every time the marker fires. What's going on?
That's the vent hole for the solenoid. If you want to lessen that puff of air, adjust the 'feather touch' screw under the back cap. It's the smallest silver screw, and it lines up with said vent port. It should be the third screw from the left.

~I'm getting shootdown and/or dropoff! What should I do?
We've heard of some people having trouble with dropoff and shootdown when using a SLP regulator. If your tank output is between 400 and 550 PSI, you should be fine. (I recommend taking most if not all shims out of your standard Ninja reg; that seems to do the trick.) FSDO to +2ms after 2 and dwell +1 always help.

Part 3a: Leak Guide

Got a leak? I've got a fix.

Symptom: Leaking from breech/leaking down the barrel
Solution: Check (and/or replace) the rear feedneck oring (017) as well as the front bolt guide oring (013)

Symptom: Leaking from the frame
Solution: Make sure you are using a Low Pressure tank, then check (and/or replace) the two orings that sit between the frame and the body, just behind the trigger (1x3?)

Symptom: Leaking from vent port
Solution: Check the bolt sail oring (016), rear bolt guide oring (013), the external can oring (stretched 017) as well as the first oring behind the can (first oring of the four, closest to the threads. should be an 017) . I also recommend making sure the transfer ports on either side of the FT screw have NOT been touched and are sealed properly with teflon tape and/or a spec of blue threadlock

Symptom: Other
Solution: Contact me! (pm me here so I can keep track of everything)

I'll keep adding to this guide as I come across more info. If you have any questions/comments/concerns, please feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll help you out


So, here's the core next to a 2.0 luxe corePosted Image

... and stripped down (basic)

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Full Strip!

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... this is the spring and can (it's a self-sealing valve, like on the clone or droid. this helps with efficiency!)

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OH! and here's the reg stripped down...

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Here is the marker without the reg and bolt

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Grips are thin enough. they extend out about as far as the NXT or EGO grips, but they feel better.

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eye covers first. They're the same offset pistons that the luxe uses. BTW the magnets are REPELLING from the body, so they tilt out when you slide the lever backwards. It's IMPOSSIBLE to do this on the field (and they won't come out accidentally) because of how deep the latch slides into the body. That being said, if your eye covers do manage to come off, there's an Eye Cover Fix at the bottom of the page.

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You can see I've bent the microswitch lever a little to make the trigger more to my liking

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Board and back-plate for the OLED (plastic case to keep the OLED safe from paint and hard knocks)

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Feedneck is built into the body

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and it strips from this....

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to this:

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ASA is simple enough

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here's the inside of the grip (trigger removal)

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and what's left in the body (also note the milling around the magnet to route eye-wires!)

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SMC noid breakdown is cake

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Note that there's no manifold. It's all milled into the body.

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There's really not much to these markers. Not as complex as a luxe strip, and the frame/body is more like a shocker or an ego really. It's super-simple and it's done quite cleanly. No problems taking this guy apart at the field.


Take off your eye cover
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Notice that the tab has the flat side facing inwards, towards the body
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Push this button
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These should come out
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Re-assemble with the flat part of the tab facing outwards, away from the body
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Edited by 1MPUR1TY, 07 September 2012 - 02:27 PM.

RIT Tigers #14




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Posted 18 January 2013 - 12:56 AM

V3 Parts Update:

V3 Parts include a new can and a voltage regulator. Again, these are provided free from Machine. Simply register your vapor and request the new parts.

RIT Tigers #14



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Posted 18 January 2013 - 09:26 AM

Awesome write up! :tup:

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