Jump to content


Photo

Dye DM7 question and problem


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:48 AM

Hey guys, recently picked up a DM7 at a deal I couldn't pass up two days ago. This is my first DM but I've reading the stickies and manual. Like all the markers I've acquired, first thing I have to do is a whole oring rebuild.

Replaced and maintained the orings in the drivetrain and hyper 2. My problem is getting the LPR assembly out. After separating the frame and body, there are 3 holes under the LPR. One (towards rear of marker) is empty and the other two has set screws. I was able to take out the screw that is towards the front of the marker easily. The one in the middle, however, is loctited like crazy! I broke one Allen key already and stripped the screw with the second Allen key. Why is there so much loctite on this screw? Will either buy a tap or take the safe route and send to dye.

My questions are about the 3 holes . What are they each for and why was one empty? Also, the silver cylinder that sits above the HPR that has something to do with the on/off. There is also a threaded hole through it. I would assume that it is to secure it, but I'm not sure. Is a screw supposed to be there as well?

Other than that, the DM is in fantastic shape. Barely been used but hasn't been maintained in a loooooong time. Aired it before the rebuild and had no leaks. No leaks after I replaced the orings that I could but I just want to replace the orings in the LPR body as well.

Thanks! __________________

#2 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 November 2012 - 05:28 PM

http://youtu.be/B85JixJqWSw?t=17m

the middle set screw is an air transfer hole, dont touch it. the front hole is suppose to be empty because tahts where you grip frame screws into. The rear screw is how you take the LPR out

as for your second question, i dont remember but i think what youre talking about is the flange that adapts into the gun. so as long as it dosent come out, its fine.

#3 junits15

junits15

    And now I am become death, destroyer of worlds

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,812 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Back in the USSR

Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:16 PM

quick tip, once you get the set screw out, screw an autococker cocking rod into the brass piece that has the reg seat and pull it out that way. When you look at the brass piece you should notice threads located behind the hexagon for the allen wrench, that's where you wanna put the cocking rod.

Also read the DM7 Manual
Posted Image
Borg you will NEVER be forgotten.
TECHPB FEEDBACK IOG FEEDBACK
I bought an Ion.... in hindsight it was a bit of an Impulse buy

#4 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:29 PM

Thanks for the replies! I appreciate it.

I actually have read the manual and.searched for YouTube vids. Unfortunately the manual isn't as thorough as others I've had and the YouTube I found was for a DM6 . Was helpful to a certain extent.but didn't show close up what screw I was supposed to take out specifically.

I took a picture of it after coming home from the hardware store. Bought a 10/32 long screw and threaded into the part. The LPR still would not.budge. I'm putting a lot of force on it also. Any tips to make it come out easier like hair dryer?

Posted Image

#5 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:56 PM

im really confused on what youre trying to do here
I haven touched a DM in a year so correct me if im wrong

You dont need to take that screw out to take out the LPR. all you need is a pair of needle nose pliers and the screw in the rear out. Then you just pull out the piston with needle nose pliers.

All DMs are the same from DM6-Dm12. There are only minor cosmetic differences and the addition of eye pipe,grips and hyper 3.

http://youtu.be/uhJMrAvcpvY?t=12m4s treat your gun the same way and listen.its the same thing.

you dont need to move the middle set screw to take the LPR out.

if you want to take it out, use a hair drier, heat for 5mins, remove with some elbow grease, put it back with some blue loctite

Edited by 510waffles, 21 November 2012 - 09:57 PM.


#6 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:49 PM

I just want to replace the orings in the LPR. This is my first DM and wasnt sure which screw eld the lpr in place. One screw originally had teflon tape, one with loctite, and I wasn't sure which screw was which.
Didn't know differences or similarities among versions so was still unsure. That and when I tried to take the LPR out, it wouldn't budge....not one bit. It felt like it was still secured somehow.

How am I trying to pull it you may ask.

I put a 10/32 screw in the brass fitting with a bolt by the head. Place an adjustable wrench on the body of the screw and just under the bolt.
While sitting on the floor, put one foot on the hpr and the other on the feedneck and pull like crazy. Won't even budge.
the valve on my ego07 wasn't as hard as this. Was a pain to take out but wasn't this difficult to move

#7 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:58 PM

Ok, it's moving about 1-2 centimeters, but feels like its being blocked by something.

#8 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 November 2012 - 11:19 PM

if the rear screw is out i feel like you just gotta yank it out. be careful though

#9 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 21 November 2012 - 11:39 PM

I took out the retaining screw out just to check. It seems that one of the holes lines up with the air passage screw. Could it be that the previous owner loctited the screw too far in that the tip blocks the body from being taken out?

I don't see what else is making it stuck. The 2mm movement has little friction. Then all of a sudden it's stuck like it's stuck on some piece of metal.

#10 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 November 2012 - 11:56 PM

I took out the retaining screw out just to check. It seems that one of the holes lines up with the air passage screw. Could it be that the previous owner loctited the screw too far in that the tip blocks the body from being taken out?

I don't see what else is making it stuck. The 2mm movement has little friction. Then all of a sudden it's stuck like it's stuck on some piece of metal.

Im not sure then, i would send it to dye or find a local tech, there are many people with experience with dye guns.

did some reading, turns out it could be the middle screw screwed in too tightly.try taking that out with a little bit of heat from a hair dryer

Edited by 510waffles, 22 November 2012 - 12:09 AM.


#11 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 22 November 2012 - 12:10 AM

"*Note - before you all scream and yell at me that this is stupid, this is how dye told me to do it once...i'm not kidding.

if you're feeling brave...and dont have a screw that threads into the LPR, you can air up your gun slowly w/o the LPR set screw in and the LPR should come shooting out the back, just make sure you have a pillow or something behind it so you dont plant it in the wall or your chest."

#12 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 22 November 2012 - 01:41 AM

Lol, that would have to a last resort.

As far as the middle screw, it's already stripped. I'll either have to tap it now or just send it to dye. I'll have to call.to see how much that will cost.

#13 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 22 November 2012 - 02:16 AM

Lol, that would have to a last resort.

As far as the middle screw, it's already stripped. I'll either have to tap it now or just send it to dye. I'll have to call.to see how much that will cost.

already stripped? did you heat it before trying?


apparently the method i posted is actually a pretty good method given that you turn down your HPR


i guess it is what it is if youre gonna just send it to dye lol

Edited by 510waffles, 22 November 2012 - 02:17 AM.


#14 junits15

junits15

    And now I am become death, destroyer of worlds

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,812 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Back in the USSR

Posted 22 November 2012 - 04:14 PM

Just send it to dye, they have great cs
Posted Image
Borg you will NEVER be forgotten.
TECHPB FEEDBACK IOG FEEDBACK
I bought an Ion.... in hindsight it was a bit of an Impulse buy

#15 seriouslysilly

seriouslysilly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,394 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:East coast


Posted 22 November 2012 - 08:17 PM

yeah, it was unfortunately stripped when I used the second allen key.
At first I was glad to hear that it was the air transfer screw and didn't have to worry about it.
but now that I know it's screwed in too far, I'm forced to have to take it out.

emailed dye tech support on cost estimate. hopefully it won't be too much.

#16 510waffles

510waffles

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,767 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 22 November 2012 - 09:19 PM

yeah, it was unfortunately stripped when I used the second allen key.
At first I was glad to hear that it was the air transfer screw and didn't have to worry about it.
but now that I know it's screwed in too far, I'm forced to have to take it out.

emailed dye tech support on cost estimate. hopefully it won't be too much.

dont email, call

youre wasting your fucking time when you email anyone anything if you want your shit done




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users