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#701 TinyBear

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 09:23 AM

The raptor is pretty damn cool in my books. There is no other off the showroom floor factory truck that can compete with it in desert style higher speed of road driving.

The Ram Runner may very well be better BUT it is not a off the showroom floor truck for crying out loud if I spent that kinda money on my Toyota it be better off road than both the ram and ford. The Ford may be an image truck but I respect it for being a damn capable truck that any idiot can go buy.

I too agree though I wish the ford was offered with either the 3.5TT Eco boost (had one in my 2011 F150 thing had some GO) or even the 5.0l (brother has one in his 2011 f150, great engine but not as torquey as the smaller Eco boost). The current gen f150 is a phenomenal platform but I sold mine as just didn't need that much truck any more and for off road a smaller truck is almost always better. Pulse the cheaper insurance lower car payment better fuel economy was very welcome.
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#702 OEFVeteran

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 09:41 AM

a factory Nismo/Pro4x frontier wrecks the raptor in high speed off road... its smaller, lighter, and handles better in the soft stuff... oh, and its got a factory installed supercharger....

and yeah, the ram runner may not be a factory offered option, but, it is a dealer installed package option... so yes, you can go to a supported dealership and buy a brand spanking new ram runner... or, if you already have a 2009 and up 1500, you can purchase the kit from mopar and build it yourself... but, its 13 grand alone for the suspension set up....

there are plenty of better performing off road trucks out there, the raptor just got more press then them because it won a couple baja style races (wasnt the factory truck, was the hennesy version)
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#703 cockerpunk

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:16 PM

first autocross of the season. i learned that mid engined cars live and die off there front grip, unlike my 951, which lives and dies based on its rear grip. put in some great times though, on my stock suspension with wide sticky rubber, put in some times only a half second behind the fully prepped STS cars, which is full suspension, including bushings and springs and they were on those magic toyos too.

EDIT: i also propose we have a truck and/or 4x4 thread

Edited by cockerpunk, 05 May 2013 - 10:17 PM.

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#704 bassfisher

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:20 PM

Dang it... Truck is acting up....
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#705 TK-421

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:51 PM

Just got back from dallas after installing a pair of 12" subs in my rear deck. Only cost me around $400 after everything was said and done, thanks to my uncle helping me on the install and getting me stuff at dealer pricing. I wasn't expecting to walk away for less than $600, so only $400 is awesome. Unfortunately, Mazda didn't do as good a job as they could have when installing the stuck sub, and we spliced into the wiring for the stock sub, so my subs hum from engine noise, even when the stereo is off. The stock sub was crappy enough that I could never hear it, but the new subs are way better, and I can definitely hear it. Unfortunately, it interferes with the music if there isn't a ton of bass in it. So I'm gonna have to figure out why it hums and how to fix it.

#706 SilentButDeadly

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:07 AM

Just got back from dallas after installing a pair of 12" subs in my rear deck. Only cost me around $400 after everything was said and done, thanks to my uncle helping me on the install and getting me stuff at dealer pricing. I wasn't expecting to walk away for less than $600, so only $400 is awesome. Unfortunately, Mazda didn't do as good a job as they could have when installing the stuck sub, and we spliced into the wiring for the stock sub, so my subs hum from engine noise, even when the stereo is off. The stock sub was crappy enough that I could never hear it, but the new subs are way better, and I can definitely hear it. Unfortunately, it interferes with the music if there isn't a ton of bass in it. So I'm gonna have to figure out why it hums and how to fix it.

Pics or shenanigans.
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#707 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:29 PM

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Hey guys, just bought a 2012 used mustang with 10k miles :) Pretty exciting, its my first car and im only 19, bought it on my own as a matter of fact, insurance is a killer though :P

#708 HeroForADay

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:37 PM

Now don't go wrapping it around a pole and you'll be fine. :tup:

#709 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:45 PM

Ive been driving so carefully, noone gonna hurt my baby :P

#710 HeroForADay

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:09 PM

I guess learning how to drive with a pretty tail happy car will make you a better driver in the long run. lol

I learned how to drive in a M3 GTR, and an Infiniti G35 modded to hell. :wub:

#711 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:14 PM

I love G35's, would have been my number one car but i couldnt find a Manual for the life of me -_- Why make sports cars with Autos :/

#712 TheGuy

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:31 PM

Yeah I hate seeing bitches driving around in 2013 camaros, mustangs, bmws, etc. that are automatic. They are also probabaly only v6s in the mustangs and camaros. Its dumb.
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#713 TK-421

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:34 PM


Just got back from dallas after installing a pair of 12" subs in my rear deck. Only cost me around $400 after everything was said and done, thanks to my uncle helping me on the install and getting me stuff at dealer pricing. I wasn't expecting to walk away for less than $600, so only $400 is awesome. Unfortunately, Mazda didn't do as good a job as they could have when installing the stuck sub, and we spliced into the wiring for the stock sub, so my subs hum from engine noise, even when the stereo is off. The stock sub was crappy enough that I could never hear it, but the new subs are way better, and I can definitely hear it. Unfortunately, it interferes with the music if there isn't a ton of bass in it. So I'm gonna have to figure out why it hums and how to fix it.

Pics or shenanigans.


Toss me a PM tomorrow around 3PM and I'll get pics of how it looks. It's not complete yet though, it still needs work. Need to build a false wall and carpet it, to hide the box. Then I'll move the amp over to a wheel well, build a false wall, carpet it, and add a fan for cooling and some lights to make it glow. But next on my list is to mod the dash to accept an aftermarket head unit, and redo the wiring, to get rid of the humming in the subs, and give me better quality sound. Then I'll see about making the false walls.

Also need to redo my deck. To save time we just cut holes in the stock deck cover to let the sound through, but I'm going to get a new cover made, and have it covered in a stretchy black material that will hide the subs, while still allowing sound through, so that the subs are hidden. Also need to install some foam around the subs, to help direct the sound straight up and into the car's interior, instead of letting it also spill out into the trunk.

I'm getting there, slowly but surely, but I'm not done yet, unfortunately.

#714 OEFVeteran

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:44 PM

every try and drive a city like boston with a manual... not a fun time...i know plenty of people that live in big cities that drive automatic sports cars.... i agree, that a sports car jsut isnt the same if its an automatic... hell, i learned how to drive in a 91 saab 9000s with a manual, such a fun car to drive... but, most of the people i know that drive sports cars, dont know how to drive manual, becuase they are too rich and lazy to learn (yes, i am from a wealthy family and grew up in "those" circles).

only rean i like automatic for off road is because it allows me to focus more on the trail and picking a smooth line that wont hang me up...
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#715 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:44 PM

Yeah I hate seeing bitches driving around in 2013 camaros, mustangs, bmws, etc. that are automatic. They are also probabaly only v6s in the mustangs and camaros. Its dumb.


I got a v6 :'( would love to have the v8 but im only 19, insurance is already a killer :(

#716 TheGuy

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:49 PM

a factory Nismo/Pro4x frontier wrecks the raptor in high speed off road... its smaller, lighter, and handles better in the soft stuff... oh, and its got a factory installed supercharger....

and yeah, the ram runner may not be a factory offered option, but, it is a dealer installed package option... so yes, you can go to a supported dealership and buy a brand spanking new ram runner... or, if you already have a 2009 and up 1500, you can purchase the kit from mopar and build it yourself... but, its 13 grand alone for the suspension set up....

there are plenty of better performing off road trucks out there, the raptor just got more press then them because it won a couple baja style races (wasnt the factory truck, was the hennesy version)


From what im finding online, the v6 supercharged version only makes 210 HP and the newest 4.0 L v6 that makes 265 HP. The 6.2 L v8 in the raptor makes 411 HP. Sure the raptor is heavy but the engine still makes double the HP. You also dont get the massive suspension travel that the raptor has. The raptor was also designed to work decently in all environments as a stock truck. If you mention the ram runner then you are already talking about something entirely different. That kit was made for baja style environments. I HOPE it does well in that environment. If I put $13k into a raptor to go through mud or climb rocks then it should be expected to do that very well.

I really doubt you have thoroughly driven all these trucks. It would be cool to not see you constantly bashing a truck that has already been proven to be very off road worthy from the factory.
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#717 Jawz

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:55 PM


Yeah I hate seeing bitches driving around in 2013 camaros, mustangs, bmws, etc. that are automatic. They are also probabaly only v6s in the mustangs and camaros. Its dumb.


I got a v6 :'( would love to have the v8 but im only 19, insurance is already a killer :(


where do you live country wise?
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#718 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:57 PM

So Cal i see why autos are useful especially where i live but i just feel that its different from manual, I have the car completely under my name as well as the insurance under my name, 19 year old driving a sports car is frowned upon by many insurance companies :P

#719 Jawz

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:03 PM

So Cal i see why autos are useful especially where i live but i just feel that its different from manual, I have the car completely under my name as well as the insurance under my name, 19 year old driving a sports car is frowned upon by many insurance companies :P


whats your insurance?
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#720 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:06 PM

Mercury, had the lowest price from the list of qoutes i recieved

#721 HeroForADay

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:07 PM

Auto isn't that bad if you're kicking around in it as a daily, but I suppose if you intended to drive it harder it would be a hinderance. I still prefer S-tronic type for everything though, or sequential boxes, but you can't find those things on anything that isn't a race car or a bike... which reminds me, I loved my old bike. It's a shame I can't ride them anymore.

#722 Jawz

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:15 PM

Mercury, had the lowest price from the list of qoutes i recieved


Insurance here for a new young driver and driving a new stang would be in the high 6-700's per month. You guys have it fucking easy!
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#723 RomanG

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:20 PM

Where do you stay at?

#724 Jawz

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:59 PM

Where do you stay at?

Canada, Ontario, Brampton. Worst insurance ever



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#725 TinyBear

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:37 PM


Where do you stay at?

Canada, Ontario, Brampton. Worst insurance ever



Can attest to that I used to call Brampton home even. But insurance here in Ontario is insane. I'm near 30 years old have a clean driving record, But yet I still have to pay $240 a month on a 4 cyl pickup truck. And $70 a month on a 600cc motorcycle. It's retarded.

If I wana go fast I smart enuff to take it to a track so no speeding tickets. All my hooligan style driving (LOVE getting trucks and bikes tail happy) is all done OFF the road usually at works big dirt yard or in the snow again in the yard. The only accident I was involved in was solely caused by an inattentive driver (i still recovering from that one) and my vehicles are both low risk general purpose machines.

I'm considering once I can walk again replacing my 600cc Sport Touring Motorcycle once I can ride again with a 1300cc cruiser (due to the damage my left leg has suffered I gone need something I can stretch my legs out on) and fear the jump in cost my insurance will suffer.

Edited by TinyBear, 06 May 2013 - 10:40 PM.

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#726 OEFVeteran

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:22 AM


a factory Nismo/Pro4x frontier wrecks the raptor in high speed off road... its smaller, lighter, and handles better in the soft stuff... oh, and its got a factory installed supercharger....

and yeah, the ram runner may not be a factory offered option, but, it is a dealer installed package option... so yes, you can go to a supported dealership and buy a brand spanking new ram runner... or, if you already have a 2009 and up 1500, you can purchase the kit from mopar and build it yourself... but, its 13 grand alone for the suspension set up....

there are plenty of better performing off road trucks out there, the raptor just got more press then them because it won a couple baja style races (wasnt the factory truck, was the hennesy version)


From what im finding online, the v6 supercharged version only makes 210 HP and the newest 4.0 L v6 that makes 265 HP. The 6.2 L v8 in the raptor makes 411 HP. Sure the raptor is heavy but the engine still makes double the HP. You also dont get the massive suspension travel that the raptor has. The raptor was also designed to work decently in all environments as a stock truck. If you mention the ram runner then you are already talking about something entirely different. That kit was made for baja style environments. I HOPE it does well in that environment. If I put $13k into a raptor to go through mud or climb rocks then it should be expected to do that very well.

I really doubt you have thoroughly driven all these trucks. It would be cool to not see you constantly bashing a truck that has already been proven to be very off road worthy from the factory.




the raptor sucksin mud and in the rocks... its a purpose built desert racer... not a rock crawler, and not mudder... its too heavy for mud, and not enough ground clearance or articulation for crawling... it may do well in the desert once it gets up to speed, but it still takes a good deal fo tuning and upgrading (hennesy velociraptor) to really be a power house baja truck... the ram runner as a factory offered package is a better purpose built baja truck... the only area a raptor will excel in is in the twisties off road... the ram runners suspension isnt as stiff and thesteering not as responsive (unless tuned)... a raptor will handle more like a sports car in the corners... but, the ram runner weight and suspension will allow it to go faster in the deep sand....

as for the frontier, its lighter, shorter wheel base lends to a better off roader... short wheel base is why jeeps and compact trucks have dominated the off road scene for decades... if the raptor was as good in all areas as you claim, then i would like to see it compete in a KoH style race...

the 411hp engine only outputs 435ft/lbs of torque... thats crap for an offroad truck of that weight...

so yeah, i'll bash the raptor all i want as an off roader, cuz its an image truck, i know a few people that have them, not one of them takes it off road, they bought it because of how the truck looks....

also, my jeep grand cherokee with its 4.7l v8 has ahigher payload and towing capacity then the raptor does... whats the point of owning a truck that cant tow/haul worth a damn?



Edited by OEFVeteran, 07 May 2013 - 04:24 AM.

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#727 cavemag

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 06:48 AM

Epic Raptor fail is epic

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#728 Jawz

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:16 PM

Epic Raptor fail is epic
https://www.youtube....h?v=ItCvTWOt2yE



raptor win :D
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#729 bassfisher

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:36 PM

Epic Raptor fail is epic



people like that should'nt even have a license.


EDIT: repo dukes of hazzard style

Edited by bassfisher, 07 May 2013 - 12:37 PM.

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#730 OEFVeteran

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:46 PM

the raptor is by no means a bad truck... but, ford could have done sooo muchbetter with it to make it a true off roader... like including both a front and rear locking differential, like the Ram 2500 Power Wagon.... they advertise "bead lock" wheels, but you have to order the kit from Ford Racing if you wan the actual bead locks, then have your shop install them, as the ones that comes on the truck are just for looks, they dont actually lock the bead onto the tire.... again, the raptor isnt a bad truck, it could just be better for the price.... i would rather take a ram 2500 power wagon into the desert then raptor... or, if ram reintorduces the 1500 power ram like they have been hinting at (think production ram runner without the crazy expensive dual bipass fox suspension)... there are jsut better off road offerings out there then a raptor... if Ford were to really put out an off road purpose built truck, then they need to take a page out of Jeep and Rams book and look at the Rubicon and Power Wagon... off the factory floor, a Rubicon is the single best all round offroader...

the positive selling point fo the raptor though, or atleast what i liked about it driving it on road, it handled like it was on rails... the suspension, for what it is, was perfectly tuned to handle corners with minimal body roll... the steering was percise with no major over or under steer... and it had plenty of get up and go, and grip, for hard top... but, in loose stuff, not enough low end torque to really get going for my taste... the engine seemed to break the tires free too quick, causing the vehicle to lag in its acceleration... no, i am not a professional off road driver, my off road training is all military, i learned how to drive off road in humvees, so thats what i tend to compare every currant off road truck to, as i have yet to drive any off road vehicle thats as capable as a humvee... the raptor, i found, performed better on road then it did off
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#731 HeroForADay

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 01:54 PM

the raptor, i found, performed better on road then it did off



That was a much larger component of the truck design than any heavy off roading (Fording through mud/climbing rocks)... so the argument is moot. The emphasis on the design wasnt for that type of use, the suspension design alone highlights this. It was designed as a truck that you could drive the streets with, rather quickly I might add, and easily just roll onto a general off road type situation (Dirt, gravel, and assorted trail running). ITtwas never meant to be a true rock crawler with high torque and low HP.... it is eaxactly the opposite, and people like me love that. Plus the sexy ass shell it comes in.

Trucks aren't designed all with the same thing in mind, just like cars man. Just because it has a truck body doesn't mean that it's solely meant to do A, B and C... there ARE alternatives to what you seem to fanboyishly follow, which is a tiny community in comparison to the overall truck community.

#732 OEFVeteran

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:47 PM

i get what the general purpose of the truck is... any truck can do well on a gravel road... ford build the truck for baja racing... and they fell short on a few counts in my book is all i am pointing out... if you like the truck you like it... no argument there... just pointing out why i dislike it...
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#733 TK-421

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:27 PM

Weee, just ran the cable for my bass knob to the trunk, after installing it in my ash tray. It's nice, because it stays hidden behind a door, until I need it. Which is perfect, because I'm going for a stock-looking setup. I don't want anybody to know I have a quality sound system. I don't know why, I just think it will be cooler that way. It took some work, but I got it done, so I'm proud of myself for accomplishing that much. Granted, it won't look stock when I get my new head unit installed, but that's the price I pay for getting rid of the humming in the subs, and making sure I can have quality sound. Still have a lot of work to do and some money to spend to get my system exactly where I want it, but I'm definitely closer than I was before my subs were installed.

Someone remind me on monday and I'll see about new pictures. And now that I think about it, I probably should've grabbed pictures of what the ash tray looked like before I installed the bass knob, but oh well.

Here's the link to the album of my car, I added new pictures I took before I installed the subs/amp.

http://s1017.photobu...0Mazdaspeed%206

Edited by TK-421, 10 May 2013 - 10:28 PM.


#734 Jawz

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:51 PM

Weee, just ran the cable for my bass knob to the trunk, after installing it in my ash tray. It's nice, because it stays hidden behind a door, until I need it. Which is perfect, because I'm going for a stock-looking setup. I don't want anybody to know I have a quality sound system. I don't know why, I just think it will be cooler that way. It took some work, but I got it done, so I'm proud of myself for accomplishing that much. Granted, it won't look stock when I get my new head unit installed, but that's the price I pay for getting rid of the humming in the subs, and making sure I can have quality sound. Still have a lot of work to do and some money to spend to get my system exactly where I want it, but I'm definitely closer than I was before my subs were installed.

Someone remind me on monday and I'll see about new pictures. And now that I think about it, I probably should've grabbed pictures of what the ash tray looked like before I installed the bass knob, but oh well.

Here's the link to the album of my car, I added new pictures I took before I installed the subs/amp.

http://s1017.photobu...0Mazdaspeed%206

make a vid of you playing a song :P I wanna see
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#735 TK-421

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:53 PM

I'm trying hard to not be one of those show-off kids, because it leads to nothing but bad comments, since my phone won't be able to properly record the sound, and your computer speakers won't be able to properly replicate it, so it will sound like crap. And then it goes up on youtube and leads to tons of negative comments about how crappy the sound is, and how much my car sucks, and how much of an idiot I am for having a crappy car, etc., etc.

But once I get my system perfected, I might do a video, we'll see.

#736 Jawz

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 11:01 PM

Well if it's as good as I think it should be I'm going to be more interested in the car bouncing. Lol
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#737 OEFVeteran

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 11:48 PM

you dont need to post a video to show off the sound of the car, as you said, it wont replicate the sound unless the persons audio output matches or exceeds your systems specs... posting the specs/stats of your system on the other hand will give those that know a thing or two about audio an idea of how it sounds
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#738 TK-421

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:18 AM

Who knows anything about DB Drive? I got their A7750.1 amp for my subs, but the only number they list is 750w. They don't specify whether that's RMS or Peak. My uncle says that it's because they're a quality company and they don't try to bullshit people. Even though they list RMS/Peak on their subs, so I don't get it. My subs are their K412D4, which are 500w RMS and 1000w Peak. I just want to make sure that the amp is 750w RMS, and not 750w peak, so that I know my subs are getting a good amount of power, instead of being underpowered.

I'm planning on pairing those with a Pioneer AVH-X7500BT head unit, to get some quality sound that will hopefully get rid of the humming.

After that I'll get a four channel DB Drive Amp, no idea which one though, I just want the brand to match my current amp. And I'll upgrade all the speakers inside my car at the same time. No idea what brand of speakers I'm going to get though, I haven't gotten that far yet. I'll worry about that after I have my trunk configured the way I want, my head unit installed, and my subs sounding great.

#739 TK-421

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 12:57 AM

Okay, so according to my research, if you use a 750w amp to power two subs, each sub will only get 375w, not 750w, which is what my uncle told me they'd get. It didn't sound right at the time, but my uncle knows a ton of stuff about audio, so I trusted he knew what he was doing and that I had read something wrong. Now I have to sell my amp to try and recoup some of the lost money, since I'm sure the box was thrown out and it can't be returned to the store now. And then I'll get the bigger version, the 1100w amp, so that I can give my amps their full 500w, with a little extra.

I was kind of curious as to why I wasn't getting ridiculous amounts of bass with a pair of 500w 12" woofers, turns out I was only giving them 3/4 of their power. Now my car will be stupidly loud once I can afford an amp that will feed them their full power.

#740 Darksaga

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 10:14 AM

This makes me miss my old Javelin. I plan on getting another later on when I can afford a more restored AMX. Here's a picture of my old one, I just got such a deal I couldn't pass up trading it... =(



Posted Image
Posted Image
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Nice 85mm 1.4D for trade...
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#741 EmpirePB

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 01:40 PM

drift event
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#742 cockerpunk

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:23 PM

i continuously learn, when it comes to working on cars, slow and steady wins the race. working under the gun is a recipe for having no fun at all.
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#743 SilentButDeadly

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:26 AM

Okay, so according to my research, if you use a 750w amp to power two subs, each sub will only get 375w, not 750w, which is what my uncle told me they'd get. It didn't sound right at the time, but my uncle knows a ton of stuff about audio, so I trusted he knew what he was doing and that I had read something wrong. Now I have to sell my amp to try and recoup some of the lost money, since I'm sure the box was thrown out and it can't be returned to the store now. And then I'll get the bigger version, the 1100w amp, so that I can give my amps their full 500w, with a little extra.

I was kind of curious as to why I wasn't getting ridiculous amounts of bass with a pair of 500w 12" woofers, turns out I was only giving them 3/4 of their power. Now my car will be stupidly loud once I can afford an amp that will feed them their full power.

No offense, but your uncle sounds like he doesn't know what he's talking about. DB drive seems like a sketchy company, at best. I can't even find the specs to your woofers on their own website. Not to mention they actually sell that brand at Wal Mart.

The amp he got you is a miserable match for those woofers. You're not even getting 375w per sub, you're sending 375w to both, which means you're getting around 188w per woofer. And all that is assuming he even wired it down to 2 ohms. Furthermore, those amplifiers are not even CEA rated, so who knows what their real output is.

Even if you get the bigger 1100w DB amp, you're going to have to wire your subs down to 1 ohm, which will probably fry the amp. If those truly are 500w RMS subwoofers, then you need to get a real 1000w RMS amp, like an Alpine MRP-M1000, and quit dickin around with mediocre shit.

Edited by SilentButDeadly, 14 May 2013 - 12:32 AM.

As seen on: PBreview IOG

#744 TK-421

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:58 AM

I think it's the fact that he has been out of the audio loop for a while. He used to own his own audio shop, and he's a freaky genius, so he at least used to know what he was talking about. I don't know if he still knows or not, but who knows. Supposedly DB Drive is supposed to be a quality brand, and they're compliant with some sort of 2006 thing, which means that their rating is what they actually produce.

I don't know what's up with their site, my woofers are rated for 500w RMS and 1000w peak, and are dual voice coil 4 ohm woofers.. My uncle says that the company is good, because they don't try to bullshit you with RMS power, or peak power, and they don't try to claim their stuff can handle more than it can. Which I don't get, because 1000w is written right on the front of the subwoofer, which tells me they're doing exactly what he says they don't.

Supposedly my uncle got the subs down to 1 ohm, by wiring the negatives together and wiring them to the negative part of the amp, and wiring the positives together and wiring them to the positive part of the amp.

Posted Image

Just, instead of attaching the wires from one subwoofer to the other, he just attached them all together at the amp itself. So hopefully it's down to 1 ohm and is getting the full 750/2. That way I don't have to muck with the wiring and can just install the new amp and give them both 550w.

I don't have a multimeter though, so I can't check what they're running at the amp, but I hope he wired it correctly for 1 ohm. Honestly I would prefer to run it at 2 ohms, or even 4, to keep my amp cooler, but I can't afford an amp that can do 1000w at 4 ohms, and I haven't looked around hard enough to find one that will 1000w at 2 ohm, but I'm pretty sure I could afford one of those.

I'm taking this as a learning experience for me. If it turns out my uncle was wrong about a lot of stuff, and doesn't know as much as I think he does, then it just means I need to do more research and do more of the work myself. And make my own decisions on what to buy based on what I want.

And if he's right, then he's right, and I'll keep going to him for advice.

And I don't care if DB Drive is sold at Walmart, just because something is sold at Walmart doesn't mean it's crap. Otherwise hundreds upon hundreds of companies would only produce crap, including Johnson and Johnson, Proctor and Gamble, Pepsi, Coca-Cola, Dr. Pepper/7up, etc. etc.

#745 SilentButDeadly

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 03:40 AM

The certification is CEA 2006, and if the amps have that then that's a good thing. Only time will tell if the amp will last long wired to 1 ohm. I could be completely wrong about DB drive, but the fact that they're a relatively unknown, unestablished company would make me cautious.
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#746 TK-421

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 10:52 AM

Yeah, well, even if they are unknown and unestablished, it's what I got, so I'll work with it. I want to try and keep everything uniform and the same brand, so DB Drive is what I get, because I can't afford to replace everything. I'm having a hard enough time affording the second amp, but I need it to fully power my subs, presuming the wiring is correct and it's down to 1 ohm.

Who knows, maybe everything will work out great and the system lasts 10+ years, hopefully. But I'm not that worried about it, life will go on if something breaks. And if it breaks before I want it too, then I'll go with a different company.

#747 HeroForADay

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 12:31 PM

I fucking hate car shopping. There's always one or two problems I have continuously: #1 - I can't find what I want, or #2 - I find it, and the idiots selling it (including dealerships) want WAAAAY too much for what it is.

Edited by HeroForADay, 16 May 2013 - 12:31 PM.


#748 RomanG

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 01:48 AM

Stealerships will always do that, I did basic calculations on the cost of the car, plus tax, registration, and interest and divided it by the months for my payment plan. Stealerships wanted almost 2 times that. You have to talk alot of shietttt, like tons of shiett, even if you walk out, theyll call you back they wont let a sell go. I got my payments down to the exact payment it was supposed to be

#749 TK-421

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 11:12 AM

I fucking hate car shopping. There's always one or two problems I have continuously: #1 - I can't find what I want, or #2 - I find it, and the idiots selling it (including dealerships) want WAAAAY too much for what it is.


Yup, that's what I experienced when I was shopping for my 6. Fortunately I was able to find an ad the dealership had just put up like 10 minutes before I found it, so that I was the lucky guy to snatch up the good deal. The place I had been looking at wanted about $3k more than the car was worth, and the place I got my car from ended up giving me it for $2k less than what it's worth. All it takes is patience and a bit of luck to find the right deal, at the right time, before anybody else.

#750 TinyBear

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 01:05 PM

After buying and selling as many cars as myself you get used to the game.

Had a 99 Ford Ranger for about 4 years. Bought it a year old with only 25,000kms on it from a small used car lot. Truck was immaculate but the check engine light was on and ran like a bag of crap. Got it for $14000 due to the issues. Drove away from car lot Streight to Ford dealer got the O2 sensors and IAC replaced under warranty and even got a free rental for a day. Drove it for 4 years after with absolutely no other issues and sold it for $9000

I bought an 04 Jetta TDI once for $17,900 back in 05. Three years latter and another 100,000kms and I sold the car for $16,000 to a dealership no less.

Bought a older 1986 golf diesel for $1000 with a bunch of spare parts including a spare engine and trans. Sold off the spares for $600 drove the car for couple years lent it to my brother for another year. Put only maybe $400 into it or repairs and sold it for $600 in all that time. Heck I rarely bought even fuel for that car as I'm a diesel mechanic for a living. Every fuel filter I changed got drained into a Jerry can and put in that car.


You can get cars and not spend ALOT of cash and have reliable transport for many years. Just takes a bit of patients and to know we're and what to look for.

That being said my last three cars and few of my bikes I purchased new. And you will always get screwed on new cars purely out depreciation. But ALOT of those "dealer fees" can be skirted with good negotiating. My current Toyota I purchased new and got it at price advertised even with the options I added.

Edited by TinyBear, 17 May 2013 - 01:10 PM.

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