Mag Fed sp1 with DAM magazines
Posted 01 April 2013 - 04:32 PM
I forgot to mention on the video, but it is first strike ready.
Posted 01 April 2013 - 04:43 PM
Posted 01 April 2013 - 07:54 PM
I've started using FS with my Hammer 7,Im a believer,these things are sweet,cant imagine something like this
Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:34 PM
Could you take some pics of the inside of the mag well? How'd you go about the catch, or the means to open the "doors" on the mag?
Doesnt look like there is a catch. Held in by friction I think. And he stated in my thread a set screw is what depresses the "doors". The latter is fairly simple and straightforward to do. Drill then thread a nut and bolt at the correct height.
If you have G1 or EXTCY issues PM me
Posted 01 April 2013 - 11:38 PM
Hybrid SFT 09 Impulse HB REV-i Macroless Mech Ion
Rotor Grillz PE 70/45 Feedback - 23/0/0
Posted 02 April 2013 - 12:19 AM
Edited by andrewthewookie, 02 April 2013 - 12:24 AM.
Hybrid SFT 09 Impulse HB REV-i Macroless Mech Ion
Rotor Grillz PE 70/45 Feedback - 23/0/0
Posted 02 April 2013 - 11:22 AM
Posted 02 April 2013 - 11:45 AM
Edited by WilliamShattner, 02 April 2013 - 11:47 AM.
Posted 02 April 2013 - 12:24 PM
I'd totally be interested in buying this if you were to sell it, totally badass.
I wouldn't sell it because I am afraid it would break. :-)
Try making your own, you could probably do a better job than me. I am really not that good at this type of thing.
Edit- I do wish gog or empire would make something like this though in the $300 range.
Edited by WilliamShattner, 02 April 2013 - 12:26 PM.
Posted 03 April 2013 - 03:19 PM
Posted 31 May 2013 - 09:40 AM
To answer a few questions, it took about 15 hours of work and about 10 hours at least of planning (mostly in my head as I was driving around for work). It could probably do it again in about 10 hours if everything went right the first time.
There are probably better ways to hold it in place than jb,weld, I just don't have any great skills to use anything else. It would be better I suppose to use a lot more inserts and screw things together (for maintenance) but I am not that good. My philosophy was make it work and make it durable, I can remove and maintain the bolt and regulator, but sadly that is all I can really take apart without cutting into the jb weld. Again a more skilled craftsman would have done a better job.
I can't do a photo of the microswitch sadly because it is jb welded together. I just bought a cheap microswitch from radio shack and soldered wire leads (there are 3) to the bottom of the board. I talk in the video how I would have done it slightly differently now, but the results are still about the same. I then just put the radio shack switch in about the place that the normal switch would be and once again jb welded it into place. Someday if that switch goes bad it will be a huge pain to replace, but I am hoping it is good for many thousand clicks.
My problem with dmags (as you note) is that they fire from the front stack unlike dam mags which fire from the rear stack, meaning your breach will have to be further forward, otherwise dmags should work fine. If you shoot only paintballs you could reverse dmags to fire from the rear stack, BUT if you intend to shoot first strike (and you should) then you cannot reverse dmags otherwise your FS rounds will go down your barrel backwards. If you are shooting first strike I would recommend just using dam magazines. They don't cost much more and they have a very easy release switch. I still do not believe that DYE sells the mag well, but making a mag well only took about 30 minutes.
To answer the an unasked questions, I have played with this now for 6 days and it does work like a charm, a fact that still amazes me. There is no fun in paintball quite like shooting someone with a gun that you made.
Posted 31 May 2013 - 09:49 AM
Posted 31 May 2013 - 05:15 PM
Scougar is right on about the breech. I wish the original breech hole on the top was further forward, but it almost right over the trigger. Also note that on the bottom side, the circuit board runs right up to where you would need to drill a new hole on the bottom.
Posted 31 May 2013 - 05:34 PM
Posted 01 June 2013 - 11:43 AM
The hose from the regulator to the board is by far the least elegant part of the build. It just connects to the board through a small hole in the cover I made for the board. Lame, but I couldn't think of any other way to do it.
Posted 01 June 2013 - 03:45 PM
Posted 06 June 2013 - 11:09 AM
Posted 06 June 2013 - 02:03 PM
I also spent a lot of time thinking about ways to keep the board in its normal place. I only briefly thought of tapping new holes because I don't have a huge amount of confidence in my abilities. Something that I never tested was how far forward the bolt travels. If it is the case that the bolt clears the top hole by a good margin when in the forward position, a new hole created on the bottom of the breach wouldn't have to be directly below the top hole. The new hole could be drilled a bit forward. I just assumed that it should be in the same position, but it would be worth testing if the hole could be moved up. That would make it easier to drill a hole on the bottom anyway. Perhaps the trigger might not need to be moved back if the hole could be a far enough forward. I will see if I can measure it while you wait for your sp1 to arrive.
edit: After measuring, it looks like a hole on the bottom could move forward about an 1/8 inch. I don't know if that would be enough though. Worth taking a look at though.
The biggest reason I used so much jb weld was because I was either unable to or to lazy to create brackets and use enough inserts. There is really no reason I could not have screwed things together other than that jb was easiest and seemed less likely to fall apart. If you are good at fabricating brackets you will be in good shape. Even the mag well I made could have been screwed on, but again it was just easier to jb weld it.
Edited by WilliamShattner, 06 June 2013 - 02:21 PM.
Posted 06 June 2013 - 07:56 PM
Patience is always a big thing for me. Part of why I did things the way I did at the end (with jb weld) was because I was playing that same day and needed it to work since I was lending my other guns to other people that day.
Posted 06 June 2013 - 08:21 PM
Wait till you do your next one,Im sure you learned alot the 1st time,2nd time it will be even easier now that you know what works and what could be better.Now you also have a working template for measurements
Congrats on a cool project
Posted 10 June 2013 - 11:05 AM
My SP1 for modding arrived today. Immediately stripped it down and measuring up with bit of cardboard, tape and pencil everywhere lol. I have a cunning plan for the mag well "IF" the dimensions for the Magazines are as I think they are!
BTW.. this is a useful link: http://www.warpig.co...parts/sp8_side/ This is kinda what I am thinking of doing in order to keep the board in the same location. I need to find out what the air fittings are though so I can extend the airlines safely.
Can't wait to see the mag well. What mags are you using, dmags? Thanks for the link as well, I wish I would have done a better write up.
Posted 11 June 2013 - 10:12 AM
I never thought of removing the solenoid and leaving the board connected to the trigger frame. Not a bad idea at all. Now I am wishing that I had thought of that. I do think that without the board, there would be enough room to drill a new ball hole on the bottom, particularly if the new ball hole is just a tiny bit forward. With the board on the trigger frame, no need for a new switch and since it is connected to the solenoid with a wire the trigger could be moved back as far as necessary. Darn, that actually should work.
Posted 11 June 2013 - 01:45 PM
I did this on my Ion\Relay reg mod.You can plug the inlet(reg) port on the soleniod with a setscrew then tee off the back fitting or airlines with either a Lucky dual barbed fitting(in pic) or a T fitting if you need to relocate reg further rearward.I did this with a Ion but the layout of the airlines on SP1s is similar,the major exception being the board and noid are seperate.this pic shows the airlines with DW|yodas mech kit,electro version is basicly the same
Ive run this for several months now,its actually superior to many other regs Ive tried.OP is 110-130 psi@280-300fps
Deathwish DW or Yoda on PBNation or M Carter Brown should have either fittting for you,they also have a barbed T banjo that could work,heres a link for his FS thread,Lucky and T fitting not pictured but Im sure he has backstock of both
It was rumored that Dye would sell the magwell as a seperate piece but Ive yet to confirm it,wanting to make a boxfed&magfed bullpup Ion for my next project
Edited by Punisher068, 11 June 2013 - 02:29 PM.
Posted 11 June 2013 - 04:32 PM
I was told by Dye in March that the magwell would be for sale in April but have not contacted them since. It isn't listed as a replacemement part on the website yet.
Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:19 PM
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