The first step with just about any marker is to remove the grip panels. Using an allen wrench the three screws on each panel will come out, allowing the panels to be set aside. The left side of the frame exposes the circuit board and battery within.
The frame is held onto the marker body using a pair of 10-32 screws, removed by using a 1/8" allen wrench. It's advised to remove the wire connectors from the board first, so they don't get pulled off and damaged.
The solenoid is mounted to the bottom of the marker body, and simply screws onto it using the SMC solenoid screws. The solenoid itself is similar to the model used in DM3 and older Matrices (also DM4 and DM5), close enough in fact that Matrix solenoids can be used to replace the Quest one if needed.
The eye wiring will still be attached to the body with the frame removed, since it's concealed through the eye/detent covers.
After removing the solenoid, its ports become visible. The center port leads to the LP supply chamber on the left side of the marker body, along with the "firing" solenoid output. The "idle" solenoid output leads straight up into the bolt more and doesn't use a manifold or transfer chamber.
Speaking of that, here's the vertical adapter component. It functions as both a vertical ASA and also a mount for the LPR. Low pressure air supply is shunted through the small o-ring and down into the manifold chamber, where it's directed to the solenoid at the rear of the body (above).
Here are some zoom shots of the circuit board after having been removed from the marker frame.
The frame without board installed:
The power/solenoid wire harness has an in-line connector for separating the 9v battery snap from the solenoid. Here's a picture showing the polarity and function of the connector's wires:
The boards are upwardly-compatible with DM4/5/C chips, which are in abundance from aftermarket developers since their production is easy (one needs only purchase a new microcontroller, not a whole board). Care must be excercised when removing the microcontroller, though, and it's not recommended to be done unless you purposely plan on swapping it out or reprogramming it.
Anyways, now that the frame has been removed from the marker and essentially stripped bare, the function of the function of the trigger screws and pins becomes evident. The top/vertical screw is a magnet adjust, whereas the bottom screw is for the microswitch firing point. The middle screw (above the firing point) is a post-travel set screw, which presses against the pin located behind the trigger itself.
Frame trigger setup
Here are the eyes after removing the eye/detent covers.
Remove the detents and take the eyes out of position...
Quests are somewhat unique in their layout. The marker functions as a spool valve very reminiscent of a Shocker with Evolve bolt, with the notable difference of no "housing" components being used. The bolt is the moving component and it rides on a central bolt guide (aka bolt pin) but there isn't a defined dump chamber component, nor is there a piston component for the bolt movement. These parts are integrated into the marker body itself. The result of this is a drastically reduced body size since the bore needs only be as wide as the bolt.
For regular maintenance the bolt is removable out the rear of the body by unscrewing the bolt pin (1/4" allen wrench). It will slide out and the bolt can be slid out after. Just about every o-ring on either component is a moving seal, so just about all of them need to be cleaned and regreased.
The firing assembly has some quirks and nuances, which combined will make it ripe for modding.
this can be found in http://www.zdspb.com...isassembly.html