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How to "Pro Tune" your Tippmann Power Tube, Valve A-5, X7

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#1 FreeEnterprise


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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:25 AM

I have a bunch of A-5's, because they are low cost, and very easy to maintain, plus, with a few simple mods you can make them shoot VERY consistently...


Check it out, this is one of my "borrow" A-5's that I won last year after being named my teams MVP at the Transformers Scenario at Paintball Country. 



That is +/- 3 fps using Co2!


Here is how I make all of my A-5's shoot like this... 





#2 Watcher


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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:09 AM

As a Tippmann repairman having worked for several years in a small paintball shop, I feel I can add to your video.



Rather than pull on the cup-seal valve-stem with a pair of pliers to remove the valve, which can damage the pin, instead go in the tombstone slot of the powertube with an allen-wrench or flat tip screwdriver and push the valve body out from the front.  If you damage the front of the valve body or the tombstone slot of the powertube it's no harm no foul.

Also don't bother removing the velocity set-screw, it's just more wear and tear on the threads and will lead to a worn out PT in no time.


I would NOT use a tool like the screwdriver to clean the valve.  Any kind of scratching to the o-ring surfaces will cause issues down the line.  Use a plastic tool or just flush it out with water and a spray bottle.


An easy way to get the brass valve-seat down into the valve without fear of scuffing the valve/seat or it flipping on you is with a AAA battery.  Keep in mind the cupseal seals against the brass seat, you don't want to touch it with anything sharp if you don't have to.


You can center the valve in the powertube with the tombstone.


I would not advise filing the hammer if the sear notch looks worn.  If you remove material from the notch you can change the timing of the gun and also ruin the trigger feel.  If a hammer wears out just replace it.  Also, the sear slot will wear off of 90° as it mates with the sear.  A little bit of "wear" on this surface is very normal for a broken in gun and not of any concern.


I disagree with the "too much oil" comment, especially it causing re-cock issues in the cold.  Recock issues in the cold are usually the result of "short shucking" and that is a pressure issue related to CO2, in which case more oil will help make a better seal and should help overcome the problem.  The synthetic oil these guns use won't "thicken up" in cold like you'd think and will not get sticky.  My 98 has run fully "wet" in below freezing and snow on HPA and run 100%.  Too much oil just means oil is leaking out of every seam or is coating the barrel bore from being fired, it's not bad for the gun in any way, just messy.


As far as the o-rings go, I don't necessarily disagree about the abilities of the Buna o-rings in the gun but I do disagree with their use.  Buna on the valve body and on the front bolt is a good idea for a better seal, but I'd stick with the Urethane o-ring for the hammer and valve internals.  The higher pressures subject to those parts will mean that the urethane ones will wear better, and the factory o-rings seal just fine.  I have had Buna o-rings fail on me in high pressure systems such as Automags and Tippmanns, the only reason I have used them is that they're the only o-rings I've had and made them work in a pinch.  Buna o-rings are typically in low pressure guns and in combination with grease, Urethane is typically associated with oil and high pressure.


DO NOT GREASE/OIL THE CYCLONE RATCHET!  The plastic components naturally wear, when you add oil/grease to them they trap the plastic "dust" and turn it into a grit like lapping compound and will accellerate wear.  It can also make the internals "sticky" and hinder the speed and efficiency of the cyclone.

I've seen plenty of ratchets fail, and aside from the weaker "clear" plastic ratchets the definite majority of them had a paste like substance coating the inside which was eventually identified as a mixture of lubricant and plastic.

The plastic has natural lubricity, it does not need oiling.  If there are any mold flashings you can shave them down with a razer-knife to make them operate "smoother".



Also, most people don't know this but the cyclone's banjo screws can be tuned.  Pop the screws out and make note of where the air pathway hole faces.  Make sure the hole on the fitting on the cyclone piston is "open" with the hole facing the airline, this will let the cyclone "breath" better.  You can then play with the fitting on the gun to change the amount of gas you send to the cyclone, I've found 50% to be ideal in most cases.

Every single cyclone I've ever had to work on responded well to this setup.  From the cyclone hanging up during rapid fire to missing shots here and there, a dry ratchet, a 100% open piston banjo, and a 50% open valve banjo has led to a 100% reliable cyclone.




My original 98-Custom (contraction sear-spring) is a 100% reliable gun and will shoot +/- 5 fps on mostly factory o-rings and with good paint.


100% polished internals (bolt, hammer, linkage, trigger pins).  Slightly over-sized Buna bolt o-ring.  Deburred bolt.  Stock powertube (deburred).  Buna valve external o-ring.  Tuned trigger.  Lapco barrel.  Tippmann cyclone with tuned fittings.  Lapco cyclone ratchet.  WarGear soft paddles.  Aluminum cyclone piston-rod with a phosphor-bronze bushing.  Modified air delivery system (air-thru for stock).  BT SBS.  Plenty of Gold-Cup.


It has a very unique sound when dry-fired.  It doesn't just "pup" like any other Tippmann, it goes "phuhhp".  Everything inside is smooth and seals incredibly well.




It is impressive how a simple polish job and o-ring swap can really increase consistency and efficiency in Tippmanns, and a little attention to detail can make them operate super smooth, but all the while they retain their rock solid reliability and durability.


Overall good video.

Edited by Watcher, 04 March 2014 - 08:11 AM.

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