How To: Polish Internals
Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:15 PM
First thing you need to do is organize your workspace. Get a non-stick pad, paper towels, Tiberius Arms manual, Tiberius Arms gun (T8/T9), metric allen keys, and aluminum polish (I used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish) and assorted sandpapers (400, 800, and 2000 grit not pictured). Fine grit sandpaper works faster than other methods and is just as reliable. If its good enough for woodworkers, it's good enough for aluminum and steel. You can find all the sandpapers and aluminum polish at your local automotive store.
Push in on the end of the barrel (#6) and turn counterclockwise to removal the barrel.
With the barrel removed, slide the firing bolt spring (#13) over the barrel nubbins (#16) and out of the slot. Don't try and pull it straight up otherwise you could damage the spring.
Using the 3/32 allen key, remove the front (#8) and rear (#9) handle screws.
While holding the safety bushing (#4) near the trigger, unscrew the safety screw (#10).
Now using the 3/32 allen key, push on the trigger pin (#12) from the side of the handle until it pushes through the opposite side.
Take front and rear handle screws, safety bushing, safety spring (#15), safety (#3), and safety screw and put on piece of paper to prevent losing parts. The white paper towel creates a nice contrast with the Tiberius parts.
To remove gun body assembly (#5), rotate counterclockwise until side with regulator lifts up and out of handle assembly (#1). Raise end of barrel upward, push opposite end towards regulator to dislodge from handle assembly, and then lift up. This allows the push rod (#6) to become free of the handle assembly.
Place handle assembly to the side.
Using 3/32 allen key, remove regulator body screw (#10) from the trigger assembly (#3) and place on paper towel with other parts. Don't forget about the regulator body screw washer (#13), either.
Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:16 PM
Take a 7/64 allen key and remove the end cap screws (#8 or #9) and place with other parts on paper towel.
Next, remove the engine and firing bolt assemblies (#1) and slide the firing bolt (#7) off of the air chamber (#5).
Remove the air chamber shock absorber (#1) and set aside with rest of loose parts. You don't need to remove the air chamber as shown in the picture; you can leave it attached to the end cap (#2).
Now apply an aluminum polish as a lubricant to the air chamber.
Rip some 400 grit sandpaper and wrap it around the air chamber in the direction of turning. This creates a tightening effect on the chamber and helps provide an even sanding surface. Wipe off used polish, reapply, and repeat with 800 grit sandpaper and finish with 2000 grit sandpaper.
This should look similar to your end result.
For the firing bolt, take a strip of 400 grit sandpaper and stick it into the firing bolt. Once bottomed out, tear off about an inch past the end of the firing bolt. This gives you proper gripping surface area and polishes deep enough. Dip ends of sandpaper into polish and twist inside of the firing bolt so that sandpaper wants to unravel inside the bolt. This will provide proper sanding surface area. Repeat with 800 and 2000 grit sandpaper as air chamber.
Lastly, taking a new piece of sandpaper, wrap it tightly so that the sandpaper faces inward and can wrap around the firing pin (#8). This part slides inside the air chamber and makes a seal with the o-ring and is also the part that air hits and drives the bolt forward. So making this part smooth is very important. Stick the sandpaper around the pin and turn in a direction so that it starts to unwrap. As soon as the pin is able to slide into the sandpaper, slide the sandpaper as far as you can go and rotate in opposite direction so that the paper begins to tighten on the pin. Rotate repeatedly and with higher grits of sandpaper each time.
You don't need to sand inside the air chamber since the air chamber cap o-ring (#11) is the only part touching the firing bolt in there. You also don't need to sand the outside of the firing bolt because it doesn't create a seal on the barrel and the spring sits outside of it anyway.
Wipe everything down with paper towels, wash in soapy water, and dry with paper towels. Put air chamber shock absorber back onto the air chamber and oil the air chamber outer surface. Slide the firing bolt onto the air chamber. MAKE SURE TO LEAVE ABOUT 1/2" FROM BOTTOMING OUT. This will prevent the gun from not firing.
Screw the end cap screw onto the gun body. Screw the regulator body screw back, with washer, back into place.
Place the safety bushing the hole in the handle assembly first. Next, put the the safety onto the bushing with safety spring on top and hold with fingers.
Slide the trigger into the handle assembly. Now, twist the gun body counterclockwise until push rod is angled enough to slide into the handle assembly. Push the gun body downward and finally rotate clockwise until regulator and gun body snaps into position.
Screw in safety screw, followed by the front and rear handle screws. ONLY SNUG SCREWS! Over-tightening screws can cause the handle assembly to split. Push trigger pin in by hand. Finish pushing in with large allen key until flush with handle assembly.
Slide firing bolt spring all the way. Finish with sliding barrel in with open slot facing downward all the way and then twisting clockwise.
Finalize with test firing gun.
Congratulations, you have now increased your Tiberius Arm's efficiency!
EDIT: Here's a quick video on how to do the polish job.
Edited by Lord Odin, 10 May 2010 - 11:19 PM.
Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:19 PM
My image was over the 30k AND My text was too big I really am a muppet
Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:44 PM
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:52 PM
thats what my wife said when I first met her...
I still suck and barely know positions.
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