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Spool Valve Vs. Poppet Valve


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#1 M01R

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 07:10 PM

Okay, so I've seen a few questions on the TechPB forums lately about spool valve and poppet valve markers. I'm here to hopefully answer your questions about them!

So how do I tell the difference between the two?
Without going into details about the internals (which I will later on in this thread) spool valve markers tend to shoot much quieter and smoother than poppet valve markers. Spool valve markers tend to have a much smoother sound like a "shuu" kind of sound, like we hear with Luxes and DM series markers, while with poppet valve markers you tend to hear a loud "pop" kind of noise, like we hear with Egos and Intimidators.

What's best for me?
It's all personal preference on the way they shoot. If you like having a super smooth, quiet marker, with almost un-noticeable "kick" and don't mind replacing the extra o-rings and lubing the bolt more often, then spool valves are probably the right marker for you. If you like having a low maintenance, super air efficent marker, and don't mind the extra "kick" you get with poppet valve markers, then poppet valve markers are generally the best bet for you. Again, you should try out both kinds of markers, as they both have a different kind of feel to them.

Why do Poppet Valve markers have more kick than Spool Valve Markers?
It's generally due to the fact that they are a "poppet" valve. They use a hammer to open the valve, which is normally closed. That is extra force that spool valves do not use, giving them more "kick"
Edit: Kowz_76 has a point on his statement aswell. The actual bolt/rammer on a poppet valve weigh more than a spool valves bolt would weigh. That also contributes to kick.

How do spool valve markers work?
Spool valve markers usually have much fewer moving parts than the poppet valve markers, but have more o-rings.
The spool valve works when the solenoid tells the bolt to move forward, and as it pushes the ball past the detents, there is a blast of air that comes from behind the bolt. When the blast of air reaches the paintball that is past the detents, the ball is fired through the barrel at the target.
Here is an animation that should hopefully help you understand this better.
Posted Image

How do poppet valve markers work?
Poppet valve markers use a hammer, or rammer, to hit a poppet valve that is shut when not hit by the rammer. The solenoid tells the bolt/rammer to move forward. When the rammer hits the poppet valve, pressured air is let through a pathway, to the bolt. The air then rushes through the bolt, that has pushed the ball through the detents while the rammer is moving toward the poppet valve, toward the ball, which is fired through the barrel at the target. Here is an animation that should hopefully help you understand this better.
Posted Image

Most poppet valve markers are stacked tube designs, with the exception of the Angel. Most spool valve markers are single tube designs.

Hopefully, I clairified any confusion you have with poppet/spool valve markers.
If you have any questions, or anything to add, please, reply to this thread, or shout a pm to me!

Mikes video:


For other animations please visit http://www.zdspb.com...animations.html

EDIT: Here is some work by Lotus, explaining the differences between low end spools and poppets, and how they work.

This is an attempt to explain the different internals and also what differentiates the low-end, the mid-end, and the high-end markers. It can also help you understand exactly how your marker operates. Keep in mind this is going to be very technical, so be prepared.

Poppet Valve
Poppet Valves are basically a rubber seal held in place by a spring. They are opened by either a rammer striking it and opening it, or being pulled open. In paintball, we typically see the former. Most poppet valve designs are actually based off of the Spyder, seen below:
Posted Image
This basic design is typically referred to as a stacked tube "blowback" poppet. The bolt and ram are connected with a pin, and the ram is cycled backward and forward. At rest, the spring is compressed. When the trigger is pulled, a sear releases the rammer allowing the spring to move the rammer and bolt forward. At the end of the forward stroke, not only has the ball been sealed in the breech, but also the rammer strikes the poppet valve opening the airways not only to propel the ball forward, but also to push the rammer back to rest. While the rammer is returning to its resting position, it brings the bolt back with it. In this original Spyder design, the mechanisms used to cycle the rammer and hold it in place are 100% mechanical.

This changes in Dangerous Power's Fusion design, seen below:
Posted Image
Those moving red dots represent a spring in this diagram. You can see them being compressed to the right of the rammer (the rammer is green). This design is referred to as a FASOR design: forward air, spring operated return. Although this is still an electro, the solenoid only needs to direct air to one spot: behind the rammer. This air propels the rammer forward which then opens the poppet firing the ball. The spring which has been compressed during the forward movement then returns the rammer to its original position. Because air only needs to be directed to one spot, this marker makes use of a one-way solenoid. The use of a spring means a cheaper cost, but increased NVH (noise vibration harshness) and it can lead to more kick.

This is different from the Intimidator/Ego design seen below (note, this is an Ego. Intimidators are extremely similar but have one minor difference that I don't think is important enough to discuss)
Posted Image
As you can see, in this design the ram is cycled solely by air and there are no springs present. Also, the air is low pressured fed by an Low Pressure Regulator (LPR), making it smoother, gentler on paint, and more efficient. You'll also notice that the solenoid must direct air to two different locations in this design. First the air propels the rammer forward like the Fusion design, but there is no spring. Instead the return mechanism is air directed to the other side of the rammer. Because air needs to be directed to both sides of the rammer, a two-way solenoid is needed. This means this marker is going to be more expensive, but also higher performance since it will not require a spring and therefore has less NVH and kick than the Fusion design.


That's the basic hierarchy of the Stacked Tube Poppet. Next are two completely different and independent poppet designs. The first is the Marq series:
Posted Image
This is an in-line poppet, similar to the Intimidator/Ego design, except it has all been placed in the upper tube. This still requires a two-way solenoid and an LPR, and there are no return springs present. Also, since the rammer and bolt are in-line, there is greatly reduced kick to this marker because there is no off-axis forces (don't worry about that sentence if you didn't understand it. In short, in-line poppet = less kick). However, you can see that the compressed air used to fire the marker has area to expand before firing the ball, so this decreases efficiency. Maintenance is also more difficult, as you can imagine. However, the efficiency is still good and maintenance is very similar to a spool-valve, and it is also smooth.
Then we have the Invert Mini. I'm willing to bet that some of you will not be able to understand the following diagram, but I'll do my best to explain it:
Posted Image
Again, those red moving dots are a spring. This spring keeps the bolt held back in place. This uses a one-way solenoid to move the bolt forward against the spring. As you can see, when the bolt has moved forward all the way, there is an opening connecting the air pushing the bolt forward to the firing chamber. You'll see the purple air expand in both directions when this opens up, both towards the ball and towards the poppet. This opening I'm talking about is actually a spool-valve incorporated into the design. The air, after pushing the bolt forward, goes to the rear of the firing chamber, and then hits on the poppet. While this air strikes the poppet on one side, you can see that the pressure drops on the other side. This pull/push opens the poppet, thereby firing the ball. Yes, in this case the air is the rammer that opens the poppet. It's very strange, and I hope you can follow that because it's not the easiest to explain. This is also an in-line poppet. However, it uses a spring to return the marker to rest and uses a one-way solenoid. This means that it will have increased NVH and kick. Also, due to the way the air travels, it will not be as efficient as any other poppet since it is also a spool-valve. Worse even than the Marq. Also, maintenance is more difficult, however it's still not bad.

Spool Valves
A spool-valve is a valve design where the bolt opens up an air chamber when it moves forward. The basic spool-valve design is the ProtoMatrixRail/Ion/Vibe design. The Ion and Rail have virtually the same valve design, with the rail having a weird extra feature that vents some excess air out the back of the bolt while sealing the firing chamber (don't worry about that). Here is the diagram:
Posted Image
As you can see, there are no springs. Spool-valves are typically smoother than Poppets, but less efficient and arguably harder to maintain due to the increased amount of moving O-Rings. The air is constantly applied to the rear of the chamber, with a one-way solenoid directing air to the front. When firing, the solenoid cuts off air flow to the front of the bolt. The constant air supply to the rear propels the bolt forward, eventually opening up a passageway for the air in the rear to launch the ball. The solenoid then re-applies the air to the front of the bolt to return the marker to rest. There are three important aspects to this design. First, there is no LPR. Second, it only requires a one-way solenoid. Third, the air acting on the two sides of the bolt are different from one another, or in other words this is an unbalanced spool-valve. These are very cheap to produce due to the one-way solenoid and lack of an LPR, yet are still very smooth with little NVH because there are no springs present. However they aren't as efficient or as smooth as the following designs because the valves are unbalanced and, to some degree, there is no LPR. Also, the increased amount of moving O-Rings in this design means that it is prone to bolt-stick, and will be a bit harder to maintain.
This is the Threshold/G3/Rev-I design:
Posted Image

This is very similar in principle to the Rail/Ion/Vibe design, but very different in practice. As you can see, it still uses a one-way solenoid holding the bolt back, there is no LPR, and the valve is still unbalanced. However, as you can also see, the bolt is very simple, much lighter, and it has fewer O-Rings. This means it is less prone to bolt stick, it can be more efficient, has less kick, and is also a bit easier to maintain. However, remember this is still cheap to produce and unbalanced so there's still room for improvement.
The Matrix Design (Proto Matrix and Dye Matrix, this is NOT the PMR design. the PMR's design is the same as the Ion's design):
Posted Image
This is similar to the Rail/Ion/Vibe design. However it has two major differences. First, the air cycling the bolt back and forth are applied to the exterior of the bolt in an even fashion by a two-way solenoid. This means that unlike the previous designs, the Matrix is actually balanced. It will be even smoother than the others. The second major difference is that the firing chamber seals itself when the marker fires. In all the previous designs, the firing chamber stayed open to the HPR the entire time. In this design you can clearly see how the air flow from the HPR is cut, or sealed during the firing cycle by those two rear-most o-rings. This seal means that the HPR's recharge rate does not effect the consistency of the marker at all. In other words, these markers are more consistent. The Matrix design also makes use of an LPR to cycle the bolt.
This is the Shocker/Luxe design:
Posted Image
As you can see, very similar to the Matrix design. The valve is balanced and fed by a two-way solenoid. However, where the Matrix's air was input near the rear, the Shocker is fed from near the feedneck. This does not use an LPR to cycle the bolt.


Edited by M01R, 31 July 2009 - 03:43 PM.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#2 paintballer4ever

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 07:13 PM

Very nice info should clear up alot of questions. This should get pinned

#3 Kowz_76

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:14 PM

Poppets have more kick because they have more moving parts. The ram and bolt on my vice weigh close to twice what the bolt on my trix weighs.

The marq series fixes this. It's a poppet with one moving part that weighs about the same as a trix bolt.

Nice post, but like I said, the kick is related more to cycling weight than the actual opening of the valve.
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#4 M01R

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:21 PM

Poppets have more kick because they have more moving parts. The ram and bolt on my vice weigh close to twice what the bolt on my trix weighs.

The marq series fixes this. It's a poppet with one moving part that weighs about the same as a trix bolt.

Nice post, but like I said, the kick is related more to cycling weight than the actual opening of the valve.



Thanks for that. I had quite a few distractions while writing this haha.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#5 PBcRaZiE

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 10:27 PM

Yeah I think this should get pinned too. Only it should go in "the ultimate ___________ vs. ____________ forum
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#6 _ORaNGe_FLaMeS_

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 11:14 PM

Embed this guy in your post =)

EXfzQla0D_E incase you don't know how (ignore the periods in the code)

[you.tube]EXfzQla0D_E[/you.tube]

Take out those periods and it will embed Mike's video on the difference between poppets and spool valves ;) the more sources and info you can throw at them the better.

#7 M01R

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 11:17 PM

I was thinking about it haha.
I'll throw zdspb in there too for more animations.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#8 _ORaNGe_FLaMeS_

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 11:19 PM

Nice guide man, very thorough which I always like and appreciate, answer all of the questions before they're asked, I'm reporting to get this stickied good work =)

#9 M01R

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 11:20 PM

Thanks alot. I've read a few of your guides, and you really helped me with writing this.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#10 M01R

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 11:24 PM

Thanks Tenacious.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#11 _ORaNGe_FLaMeS_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 12:38 AM

Moved to newbies, pinned...all that jazz...

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#12 ELECTR1CK

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 02:54 PM

Good stuff =]
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#13 ATLpaintballer

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Posted 12 July 2009 - 07:29 PM

Nicely done.
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#14 dylanm

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 11:05 PM

good work man should clear up a lot of peoples questions
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#15 xNinjaPenguin

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 06:26 PM

i like spools better
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#16 mlbmatt9

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 07:28 PM

yes? maybe?
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#17 M01R

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 03:45 PM

Thanks everyone, and MAJOR UPDATE: I added in Lotus' post, and we now have the descriptions of how several different Poppets and Spoolies work.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#18 pbkev

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 07:56 AM

can an open bolt design be a spool? or can they only be poppets?

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#19 stoner6790

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 10:35 PM

alright so i've kinda heard not to lube the rammer for egos/eteks, true not true? anybody?

#20 U83R 1337

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Posted 18 August 2009 - 11:14 AM

A few questions:

Do high end poppets like egos, creeds, etc. have delrin bolts?

Wouldn't poppets and spools both be technically ''closed bolt'' because the bolt is closed when the ball is fired?

Why do the older DM's like a DM4 have a stacked tube design compared to single tube design of modern spools?

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#21 Lotus

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Posted 18 August 2009 - 11:19 AM

People have misused the term "open bolt" and "closed bolt" as to how it applies to paintball for a long time.

Correct usage:

Open bolt:
the breech is open when the marker is at rest. This includes almost every paintball marker except pumps and autocockers. From Egos to DMs to spyders, they're all open bolt.

Closed bolt:
At rest, the breech is sealed with the bolt moved forward and the ball is already in the breech. Mostly pumps and autocockers are the only closed bolt markers. AKALMP markers are also closed bolt.

Incorrect usage:
Open Bolt:
The bolt is "open" to the elements. This includes most poppet valve markers like Egos. This is an incorrect usage of the term. The correct term for a bolt that is exposed is just how it sounds: exposed bolt.

Closed bolt:
A bolt that is "closed to the elements. THis includes most spools like automags, Ions, DMs, etc. This is an incorrect usage of the term. The correct term for a bolt that is not exposed to the elements is an "enclosed bolt."

Older DM's do not have a stacked tube design. That extra space is taken up by the LPR, solenoid housing, and air passages.

Edited by Lotus, 18 August 2009 - 11:19 AM.

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#22 M01R

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Posted 18 August 2009 - 03:54 PM

alright so i've kinda heard not to lube the rammer for egos/eteks, true not true? anybody?



I've been told to lube the rammer on Egos and Eteks with Eclipse Oil, not Dow33 or Dow55.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#23 SicMethed

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:30 AM

how often do you have to lube up spool guns like a pm7 for example?

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#24 adrenilanejunkie

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:34 AM

lube it after every time you use it...... oil an ego every month or few lol
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#25 SicMethed

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:36 AM

even after just test shots or like real usage 4+ hours

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#26 CdnNinja

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:37 AM

I forget how often the manual says. But I do it after every day of play. It only takes a few minutes.

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#27 M01R

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:39 AM

PM7s should have the bolt lubed after every case or so, and a complete breakdown is purely personal preference. I would go with a complete breakdown, cleaning and relubing of the marker every 5 cases, and replace any o-rings that are showing wear.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#28 MackVc3

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Posted 31 August 2009 - 04:02 PM

i just want to know is there a specific kind of lube for spool valves? becuase i have a FEP quest and wanted to know what brand of lube i should get?

#29 M01R

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Posted 31 August 2009 - 07:14 PM

Any Dow33 should work very well with the Quest. I prefer SP Sl33k, or Lurker Lube. Try what one works best for you.

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#30 xUnBeliVaBle

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 08:46 PM

anything in a paintball shop that says lube is ok to use, oil on the other hand is mainly used for popits
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#31 TROPICALPUMKIN

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 09:25 PM

anything in a paintball shop that says lube is ok to use, oil on the other hand is mainly used for popits

monkey poo is the best lube for any spoolie http://www.oringmonk...products_id=464
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#32 M01R

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 05:56 PM

monkey poo is the best lube for any spoolie http://www.oringmonk...products_id=464



No, it's not. It depends on your climate, and what your manual says to use. If your manual says use nothing but Sl33k, or your warranty is void, why would you use something else?

You gotta be careful. Don't just go in there with hopes you'll be done in a few seconds, take time, make designs, put your name in it. Whatever. It gets the job done, and you feel good after, knowing nobodycan steal your junk, because your name is engraved in your manhair.

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#33 tippmannr

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 11:00 PM

hey man thats pretty sweet

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#34 Duke Scrotum

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Posted 28 May 2010 - 09:13 AM

is this not stickied yet???

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#35 Collie Dog

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 10:52 PM

Why do the older DM's like a DM4 have a stacked tube design compared to single tube design of modern spools?


Well easy answer is time means progress, change and experimenting to find new and better efficient ways to make a better gun.
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#36 St Six

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:34 PM

Super interesting and helpful. Everyone who plays paintball should learn how their gats work.

#37 Z3R0

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:51 PM

Correction to lotus' post: AKALMP markers can't be generalized as closed bolt. Their autocockers and excaliburs are, but their spyders of course were not, and neither are vikings. The Evil-M (Ehm) design, which they were working on before they stopped producing markers, was also open bolt.

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#38 BeGe

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 04:03 PM


Why do the older DM's like a DM4 have a stacked tube design compared to single tube design of modern spools?


Well easy answer is time means progress, change and experimenting to find new and better efficient ways to make a better gun.


to U83R: They don't. They simply have tubes for air transfer drilled into them (quite different from being a stacked tube design). There is still only 1 tube containing the full valve assembly and the only moving part is the bolt (just like any other true spool valve).

to Collie: Many would disagree and say the older DM's are the only design that was done right :) The newer DM's may be lighter and more air efficient...but many would say those are the only 2 features that you shouldn't care about and that they are the only 2 features that are better about the newer DM's over the old...and that the old one's are quieter, more accurate, and just as fast as any new DM :)

#39 Cookybiscuit

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 04:14 PM



Why do the older DM's like a DM4 have a stacked tube design compared to single tube design of modern spools?


Well easy answer is time means progress, change and experimenting to find new and better efficient ways to make a better gun.


to U83R: They don't. They simply have tubes for air transfer drilled into them (quite different from being a stacked tube design). There is still only 1 tube containing the full valve assembly and the only moving part is the bolt (just like any other true spool valve).

to Collie: Many would disagree and say the older DM's are the only design that was done right :) The newer DM's may be lighter and more air efficient...but many would say those are the only 2 features that you shouldn't care about and that they are the only 2 features that are better about the newer DM's over the old...and that the old one's are quieter, more accurate, and just as fast as any new DM :)

http://www.techpb.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=152223 All guns have the same accuracy.

Anyway, most helpful first post I've ever seen lol. Shame your quoting posts 7 months old...

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#40 BeGe

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 11:02 PM

http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=152223 All guns have the same accuracy.


I keep hearing that but it's just plain not true. The myth started when the famous open bolt vs closed bolt test was performed which proved that closed bolt operation in the exact same circumstances as open bolt operation is no more or less accurate, which is perfectly true. But somehow that spun out of control into people saying that no gun is more accurate than any other.

1) Consistency - the consistency of the gun greatly affects Y-axis accuracy...I don't think I really need to explain why...this one should be a "doh" type realization.
2) Platform Stability - A shot is not a single moment in time, it is very short yes, but not instant. The smallest deviation in gun position from the time the paintball starts moving at the beginning of the barrel and the time it gets to the end of the barrel changes the angle of the ball's vector by much more than just the micrometer movement itself that happened. Less moving parts (such as the 1 moving part in a DM3) and more weight (such as the 3+ lbs DM3) helps lead to a stable shot platform. Of course when it comes to multi-shot accuracy (i.e. a "rope" of paint) this is even more applicable, but it does apply to a single shot as well.
3) Operating Pressure - This is the only one that is not easily proven fact, but personally I believe that the less stress the ball undergoes during the shot the less deformation that happens to it and not only less breaks but also better accuracy. I mean for god sakes if a higher pressure gun can literally break balls that a lower pressure gun wouldn't have then isn't it safe to assume it might dent one or two that a lower pressure gun would have left round?

Edited by BeGe, 20 September 2011 - 11:04 PM.


#41 NinjasEatPandas

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 07:08 AM

3 cookies to the creator of this thread, excellent write up :tup:


http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=152223 All guns have the same accuracy.


I keep hearing that but it's just plain not true. The myth started when the famous open bolt vs closed bolt test was performed which proved that closed bolt operation in the exact same circumstances as open bolt operation is no more or less accurate, which is perfectly true. But somehow that spun out of control into people saying that no gun is more accurate than any other.

1) Consistency - the consistency of the gun greatly affects Y-axis accuracy...I don't think I really need to explain why...this one should be a "doh" type realization.
2) Platform Stability - A shot is not a single moment in time, it is very short yes, but not instant. The smallest deviation in gun position from the time the paintball starts moving at the beginning of the barrel and the time it gets to the end of the barrel changes the angle of the ball's vector by much more than just the micrometer movement itself that happened. Less moving parts (such as the 1 moving part in a DM3) and more weight (such as the 3+ lbs DM3) helps lead to a stable shot platform. Of course when it comes to multi-shot accuracy (i.e. a "rope" of paint) this is even more applicable, but it does apply to a single shot as well.
3) Operating Pressure - This is the only one that is not easily proven fact, but personally I believe that the less stress the ball undergoes during the shot the less deformation that happens to it and not only less breaks but also better accuracy. I mean for god sakes if a higher pressure gun can literally break balls that a lower pressure gun wouldn't have then isn't it safe to assume it might dent one or two that a lower pressure gun would have left round?

Posted Image

Edited by NinjasEatPandas, 21 September 2011 - 07:10 AM.

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AHHH THIS THREAD IS PISSING ME OFF I QUIT


#42 zuchaka

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 09:44 PM

3 cookies to the creator of this thread, excellent write up :tup:



http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=152223 All guns have the same accuracy.


I keep hearing that but it's just plain not true. The myth started when the famous open bolt vs closed bolt test was performed which proved that closed bolt operation in the exact same circumstances as open bolt operation is no more or less accurate, which is perfectly true. But somehow that spun out of control into people saying that no gun is more accurate than any other.

1) Consistency - the consistency of the gun greatly affects Y-axis accuracy...I don't think I really need to explain why...this one should be a "doh" type realization.
2) Platform Stability - A shot is not a single moment in time, it is very short yes, but not instant. The smallest deviation in gun position from the time the paintball starts moving at the beginning of the barrel and the time it gets to the end of the barrel changes the angle of the ball's vector by much more than just the micrometer movement itself that happened. Less moving parts (such as the 1 moving part in a DM3) and more weight (such as the 3+ lbs DM3) helps lead to a stable shot platform. Of course when it comes to multi-shot accuracy (i.e. a "rope" of paint) this is even more applicable, but it does apply to a single shot as well.
3) Operating Pressure - This is the only one that is not easily proven fact, but personally I believe that the less stress the ball undergoes during the shot the less deformation that happens to it and not only less breaks but also better accuracy. I mean for god sakes if a higher pressure gun can literally break balls that a lower pressure gun wouldn't have then isn't it safe to assume it might dent one or two that a lower pressure gun would have left round?

Posted Image


unless there is a better version of this thread somewhere shouldn't this thread be stickied ?

#43 urockalex

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 09:09 AM

Which type of spool valve would a GoG Extcy have?

#44 BurningPlaydoh

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 10:13 AM

Which type of spool valve would a GoG Extcy have?

Blowforward spool valve just like the Ion.

#45 Orange Chicken

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 11:26 AM

Aahhh necropost!

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#46 urockalex

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 05:57 PM

What is a G4? A spool or Poppet? What type of Spool or Poppet? Is it like the G3? Thanks.

#47 unfated33

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 06:28 PM

What is a G4? A spool or Poppet? What type of Spool or Poppet? Is it like the G3? Thanks.

Perhaps this will help: http://www.techpb.co...&st=0&p=3070723

Add to that:
Poppet
Planet Eclipse Ego LV1
JT Impulse
Autococker Resurrection

Inline Poppet
Bob Long V-COM

Spool
Empire Vanquish
MacDev Clone GTi

Stacket Tube Spool
J4 Torque

Edited by unfated33, 21 March 2013 - 06:29 PM.

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#48 Frogman

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 10:59 PM

I like poppet because i rarely get to refill my hpa.




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