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The Ultimate mechanical Autococker lubrication Guide in Existence...


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#1 VICE_ROY

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 01:32 AM

For the TechPB community, and owners of the Harley Davidson of Paintball, the Autococker.

Through much research, I've found that WGP manuals (and almost all other Autococker manuals) are TERRIBLE...the instructions for lubrication and maintenance in those things are so old school, from back when people used Vaseline and all that sort of crap in their guns because there was simply little-nothing else available yet. I learned right away I'd have to do some experimenting and find out what works best. If you need help on how to perform any of these following procedures (such as removing the internals, or other parts) follow the link, cockertech has been around for awhile and pretty much all the info on Joe's site is dead on.

http://www.cockertec.......s&Itemid=64

Let's get started!



My preferred Autococker lubricants:

1. Dow 33/Shocker lube/SL33K lube. It's all the same, just different names.

2. Planet Eclipse gun oil (bottle design makes for easy use, and there's nothing better).

I'm extremely meticulous with my equipment, whether it be paintball, Motocross racing, downhill mountain biking, whatever. If you think the timelines on the lubrication are too demanding/you don't care that much, fine. The focus of this article is the types of lubes to be used, and their applications to different components of the Autococker. Here we go…


1. At least once every year/playing season, strip out the internals found in the "bottom tube" (valve assembly, hammer, springs, IVG) and lube them up with a Dow33 type lube. Clean and lube up the cup seal and valve, all the surfaces of the hammer (save for the lug, maybe), and if you really want to go all out, a little on the springs, and face of the IVG. To keep the valve from getting harmed, a little on the tip of the valve guide set screw, and face of the jam nut (the side that holds the valve in place) can go a long way. Re-install, and re-time (instructions on timing can be found either on cockertech.com, or the Autococker TechPB video). Dry fire it with the barrel off 50 times or more (if you got even the tiniest bit of lube inside your valve, this will shoot it out of the gun, and not down your barrel!). There's really nothing to go wrong in cocker internals, they're very solid, so don't worry. This procedure may seem like a lot to some, but it goes a long way and it makes the gun feel smoother and "healthier" if you will, for quite a while.

*Side note* After doing this in depth teardown maintenance, you don't need to, and probably shouldn't, do the next part (shooting oil through the ASA) for about 4-5 days of play, maybe even more. The effects of a lubricating like that are going to last, and the idea of mixing fresh Dow 33 and gun oil in the valve doesn't sound appealing.

2. Old School Method: After 1-2 days of play, simply remove the inline reg, put 3-5 drops of Eclipse oil in there (and hold the gun upside-down until you attach the reg and macroline, and air up the gun…don't wanna get this stuff in your reg) air up the gun and shoot off 30-40 blanks or a few more if you'd like. This is "the old school" method of lubing (that still works great on cockers nonetheless) that is also done on blowbacks as well. A decent amount of lube will be dispersed everywhere the air travels through the Autococker.

3. Every day of play, I clean the 3-way shaft (or actuator rod) and inside the 3-way, then lube the o-rings on the shaft with Eclipse oil. Then I take off the trigger frame, clean any dirt and grime, and lubricate any of the moving components with Eclipse. After doing this, re-install everything and sit there pulling the trigger a few dozen times to work the oil around. Doing this every day of play will ensure that the trigger components and 3-way create no drag, cycle like butter, and the gun shoots as fast as it can with little-no short-strokes. I've tried Dow 33 on the shaft, but due to it's air sealing nature, it actually effects the position of the recocking point! So I don't recommend that. But anyway, this is one of the most important services on an Autococker, in my opinion.

4. As for the bolt, all my cockers have delrin bolts so I usually just run it dry, cleaning it regularly. Steel bolts should be lubed on the o-rings and any of the parts where metal will contact the inner body. If I ever choose to lube MY bolt, it's almost always with Tri-Flow, just on the o-rings. I much prefer a well cleaned, dry bolt though, even on my Vice :)

5. If you want to maintain everything and the kitchen sink, lubing the ram is also great. If you have a ram that you can unscrew to disassemble (not take of the gun), do so! Clean and lube the inside of the ram housing, as well as the seals and ram arm. Eclipse oil is the best option here to avoid grime in your ram (you can try Dow33 or 55 if your ram is leaky!). If you can't disassemble your ram, or don't want to, then either

A. Squeeze the trigger to pull back the 3-way shaft (if using a hinge frame, just leave it in the forward resting position) and put 2-3 drops of Eclipse into the 3-way, then air up the gun and cycle the oil into the ram.

B. Pull the back block back, exposing the portion of the pump arm that rests inside the ram. Apply Eclipse oil to the entire portion that goes inside the ram, ensuring it is basically covered in the lubricant, and maybe has a drip forming on the downward end. Push the back block forward again, leave it in there for 30 seconds or so, then move the ram back and forth to work around all the oil. If you wish you may also air up the gun and do some dry firing to get it all worked around, for a smooth, slick cocking action.

*For pumped cocker/Sniper owners*


Since with a Sniper you'll be shooting much less paint, at much lower rates of fire (unless you've got an auto trigger or something), and obviously don't have pneumatics, I'd recommend performing Part 1 and leaving the gun for 3-4 months in terms of lubrication, before you use the old school lubing method. Then all you have to do to the gun after a day of play is clean any paint or dirt off, take out the bolt and squeegee the top tube, and you're completely done with the cleaning of the gun component of the setup. This gives you the time to wash the barrel and clean the hopper, so your pump is clean as a whistle and shoots darts. This way, you're also ensuring the internals are in good shape on a seasonal basis when you pull them out.

For timing on a pump, there's nothing to it. If you like it to fire half way put it there. If you like it to shoot at the end, fine. Whatever floats your boat. Resetting a Sniper after a lubing should be a cinch.


*Deviation Notes*

-In place of the Dow 33, I could see Lurker lube, Planet Eclipse LUBE (not Eclipse oil) Dye Slick lube, and possibly TechT Gun Sav as possible options in being used on Autococker internals. But, I'm pretty sure that Eclipse, Dye, and Mac Dev greases are all Dow 33 just like the Smart Parts SL33K lube, and probably the exact same stuff. Hater Sauce is said to gunk up, so I don't recommend that. Dow 55 being basically the same as 33 (save for o-ring swelling), can be used but there's really no o-rings to swell besides the valve body (which doesn't seal air anyway). As for the TechT stuff, I'll have to try it before I approve it; it seems really gunky and sticky.

For the most part, I'd say stick with what works and pick up a tube of SL33K. Anyone who has other opinions on greases please post up!

-As a substitute for the Planet Eclipse oil, there's not much out there that can take its place. Gold Cup works but just doesn't leave the trigger feeling as smooth, and the bottle tip design is very strange. PMI/Extreme Rage oil is JUNK...maybe get away with that on a Tippmann or Spyder. AKA did make oil at one time, not sure if they still do. If you can get your hands on that stuff let me know how it works. Otherwise, just stick with Eclipse…it's got a great eye dropper style tip for precision, and if it's good enough to maintain lightning fast Ego's, it's good enough for anything else that requires oil, and probably the best solution.

There you go. That's what I found works best, through much testing and experience, to keep your Autococker shooting MONEY! Post if you have any comments/questions, or just want to speak your mind about what's written. Thank you very much!

Edited by VICE_ROY, 22 July 2009 - 08:55 PM.

"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#2 Nicholai

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 04:16 AM

5. If you want to maintain everything and the kitchen sink, lubing the ram is also great. If you have a ram that you can unscrew to disassemble (not take of the gun), do so! Clean and lube the inside of the ram housing, as well as the seals and ram arm. Eclipse oil, or small amounts of Dow 33 should be the best option here (try Dow33 or 55 if your ram is leaky!). If you can't disassemble your ram, or don't want to, squeeze the trigger to pull back the 3-way shaft (if using a hinge frame, just leave it in the forward resting position) and put 2-3 drops of Eclipse into the 3-way, then air up the gun and cycle the oil into the ram.


I've heard if you have qev's you should not use any kind of grease in the rammer. I also think out of all the maintenance this is the most important thing to lube, and it should only be done with oil. If you are lazy you can point the cocker downward and drop oil from the back of the front block right down into the ram. Just cycle it a bit once you got a few drops in there.

I would so not recommend taking out your valve and hammer etc so often. I pretty much leave that all alone unless I develop a leak or it starts getting gunky or it's just been a while and I'm bored. But honestly those valve should be pretty solid when left alone and most people will probably do more harm then good taking the valve in and out and trying to re-time it each time.

Good writeup, thanks for sharing.
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#3 Merc4Hire

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 05:42 AM

Yeah, I agree with nicholai, taking all the lower tube stuff out seems overkill and likely to nick o-rings that last forever anyway. Just unscrew the reg and drip a little oil in the asa, put the reg back in and fire a few without the barrel a few times. I think you are likely to make more problems than you solve.

I have cleaned the lower tube behind the jamb nut a few times, and it always was clean anyway. Just re-lube and go. My main mistake was to oil the lower tube. Some of it dripped down into my eblade though the hammer lug slot and ruined the screen on a new Zero b. Grease only in my lower tubes from now on.

Besides one of the main things I like about autocockers is that you can set them up an leave them alone and they will work nice for a long time with nothing more than an occasional drip in the 3way and cleaning after a day of play.

Edited by Merc4Hire, 22 November 2008 - 05:45 AM.



My favorite style of play is whatever I haven't done in a while.

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#4 VICE_ROY

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 02:42 PM

Yeah, I agree with nicholai, taking all the lower tube stuff out seems overkill and likely to nick o-rings that last forever anyway. Just unscrew the reg and drip a little oil in the asa, put the reg back in and fire a few without the barrel a few times. I think you are likely to make more problems than you solve.

I have cleaned the lower tube behind the jamb nut a few times, and it always was clean anyway. Just re-lube and go. My main mistake was to oil the lower tube. Some of it dripped down into my eblade though the hammer lug slot and ruined the screen on a new Zero b. Grease only in my lower tubes from now on.

Besides one of the main things I like about autocockers is that you can set them up an leave them alone and they will work nice for a long time with nothing more than an occasional drip in the 3way and cleaning after a day of play.


Yeah what I probably should include is that the valve removal is not good to do all so often unless you're VERY familiar with the practice.

When I rebuilt a 2k RF WGP cocker that was totally FUCKED, I used that method and it worked wonders. The gun had been sitting in a store's basement for years, unshot and used as a parts gun, and after the lubing it shot beautiful.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#5 VICE_ROY

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 02:51 PM

I've heard if you have qev's you should not use any kind of grease in the rammer. I also think out of all the maintenance this is the most important thing to lube, and it should only be done with oil. If you are lazy you can point the cocker downward and drop oil from the back of the front block right down into the ram. Just cycle it a bit once you got a few drops in there.

I would so not recommend taking out your valve and hammer etc so often. I pretty much leave that all alone unless I develop a leak or it starts getting gunky or it's just been a while and I'm bored. But honestly those valve should be pretty solid when left alone and most people will probably do more harm then good taking the valve in and out and trying to re-time it each time.

Good writeup, thanks for sharing.


Thanks for the input. Yes now that I put more thought into it, oil is probably better to use on the ram. You probably want the thinnest stuff available in there so it doesn't get gunked up.

After some more consideration I think I'll lengthen the recommended time line for the teardown lube. I forgot that I was writing this to help others, probably most of which aren't as familiar with removing cocker internals as I am, having done it many times. I think that #1, for the average player, is more appropriate for seasonal or yearly maintenance timelines. I do mine every 3-6 months, but you're right, it's not needed at that level, especially for newer Autococker owners.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#6 Nicholai

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 04:58 PM

Oh man i am sooo sorry to hear about the ruined LCD on the zero board! What a bummer! What did you end up doing with it, can you see anything or is it just blurry now?
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#7 Iram

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:04 PM

That's overkill. There's no good reason to take apart the lower tube unless there is a leak. The only actual moving seal down there is the cupseal on the poppet, and if there's a problem with that the leak down the barrel will let you know. Even if you're familiar with those internalls, removing the valve is going to drag the valve o-rings across the IVG threads (and possibly the jam nut threads on some guns) which just generates a lot of extra wear.

WGP recommends lubing the ram with petrolium (sp?) jelly by applying the grease to the ram shaft when the bolt is pulled back, and working it into the mechanismy by cycling it back and forth. I've had a WGP tech do something similiar to my Black Magic using Mookie's Urban Gun Goo (Predator paintball brand Dow33), and it does wonders for clearing things up if your ram gets gritty. I've used SL33K and it hasn't caused any problems with QEVs, though the Urban Gun Goo seemed to provide a slightly smoother result.

#8 VICE_ROY

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 08:23 PM

That's overkill. There's no good reason to take apart the lower tube unless there is a leak. The only actual moving seal down there is the cupseal on the poppet, and if there's a problem with that the leak down the barrel will let you know. Even if you're familiar with those internalls, removing the valve is going to drag the valve o-rings across the IVG threads (and possibly the jam nut threads on some guns) which just generates a lot of extra wear.


Well there is a good reason: The gun shoots way smoother after you do this teardown lubing. Even if it didn't, I'd still do it...I just feel like I'm actually maintaining the gun for a long service life. Maybe it's the headset I have from working on a racing motorcycle.

But honestly, the jam nut is certainly not going to get noticeable damaged, and who cares about the o-ring? The things are like 10 cents. I usually replace mine regularly, even though it doesn't really seal any air, it's the cupseal that does.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#9 Iram

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 07:11 AM

Well there is a good reason: The gun shoots way smoother after you do this teardown lubing. Even if it didn't, I'd still do it...I just feel like I'm actually maintaining the gun for a long service life. Maybe it's the headset I have from working on a racing motorcycle.

But honestly, the jam nut is certainly not going to get noticeable damaged, and who cares about the o-ring? The things are like 10 cents. I usually replace mine regularly, even though it doesn't really seal any air, it's the cupseal that does.


Paintball guns aren't motorcycles. I overclock some of my PCs, but you don't see me trying to hack a Yakuza board. What works for engines doesn't necessarily work for paintball guns.

The valve o-rings actually do seal. Without them air will simply go around the valve, and you will end up with leaks both down the barrel and around the hammer.

Anytime you work on a gun, there is a small chance of something going wrong. Regardless of your experience or skill, there's always a chance of human error. Always a chance of something getting knicked, or dropped on the floor and never seen again. Taking things apart so that you "feel like I'm actually maintaining the gun" isn't a good reason to tell everyone to take apart their guns.

If there's any sort of dirt or grim around the cup seal of the valve, it would leak (and likely get shot out after cycling the gun a few times). If there's anything around the poppet stemp, it would get blown back towards the hammer when you fire (the valve stem doesn't seal 100%) or up out the barrel. There might be some justification for removing the hammer and IVG and cleaning the back portion of the bottom tube, but not the valve. The only possible exception to this is some of the older (late 1990s) valves that added an o-ring to the valve stem, similiar to a timmy valve.

The kind of greases you are recommending for the valve are designed as o-ring lubricants. Cup seals are hard plastic. If you look at what the other major manufacturers of poppet guns recommend for valve cleaning, you have:
ECLIPSE EGO9: (No frequency specified) Remove valve, oil outer valve o-rings. No lube on the actuall poppet. (Note: those are static o-rings that they are refering to. I've never heard of a cocker having a problem with outer valve o-rings unless someone already removed the valve and damaged one of them).
BOB LONG VICE: Every 10 cases, remove poppet, grease the o-ring on the front of the poppet. No lube on the cup seal. (Note that modern cockers don't have that o-ring on the poppet).
KINGMAN SPYDER RS: Only recommend to remove the poppet if the seal is defected. No lube recommended.
WGP AUTOCOCKER SR: Maintainence does not include mention of the valve at all.
WGP TRILOGY: Maintainence does not include mention of the valve at all.
WGP AUTOCOCKER: Maintainence does not include mention of the valve at all. (Generic manual)
WDP ANGEL ONE: (No frequency specified) No lube recommended for the valve.

I'm sure that the jam nut wouldn't be significantly damaged, but I've had a valve sit in a gun for 10 years without a problem. After 10 years when the valve was removed to switch it to a different body, the o-rings didn't even look like o-rings anymore, but they sealed fine. There was no gritty feel to it.

Below are the recommendations from WGP for maintiaining autocockers. Anything beyond that and you're into what Mike calls "experimental paintball". I've found the steps below work fine to keep my cockers up and running, though I do also follow the recommendations for cleaning aftermarket the HPRs according to the manufacturer of the regulator.

==================
From the WGP Autococker Manual:

It isnʼt necessary to completely disassemble your marker to clean it. WGP

recommends the following cleaning be done after each day of play:

1. Remove air source and ensure that all air has been released from the marker.

2. Remove the barrel.

3. Lightly spray marker down with a 50-50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water and then wipe down.

4. Wipe down the marker with a clean cloth, or blow off the marker with compressed air (NOT CO
2).

5. Remove bolt and lubricate bolt O-rings with petroleum jelly or lithium grease, then reinstall. If you have a Delron bolt, do not lubricate.

6. Lubricate the threads and all moving parts with Vaseline, and reassemble.

7. WGP recommends that after every 4-5 days of play you place 3-4 drops of 3 in 1 or other paintball marker specific oil in the air receiver and fire the marker 10-15 times without the barrel. This will distribute the oil throughout the marker and lubricate the internals.

Factory approved lubricants:
• Petroleum Jelly

• Lithium Grease

• 3 in 1 Oil



#10 VICE_ROY

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 08:31 PM

Hacking a Yakuza board? We're talking about maintenance, not modification.

The valve o-ring is there to seal the small nooks and crannies around the valve, that hugs the inside of the body. I have seen that valves can be put in without o-rings and usually not leak. Try it if you don't believe me. WARNING: The results may shatter the foundations of your existence.

Whatever floats your boat and you find works, do it then. If you are the "Le se Fair" type that think that less maintenance is more in terms of gun health, go ahead and stand by that. I stand by my methods and routines because my guns shoot amazingly. There is no amount of evidential support (most of which I have already seen), or test results that can be added to a thesis such as yours that would make me change my ways (which aren't solely "I take my guns apart to feel like I'm maintaining them". Through years of experience and analysis I have consistently found that these maintenance measures are superior to any other, and NOTHING can take that away from me. There's your reason!

And the whole experimental Paintball thing is only good to go by when the manual is QUALITY. Deviating from a high quality manual like something from Eclipse, the industry's best manual. WGP manuals are terrible, considering the complexity of an Autococker and that little is covered in them. Not to mention, they haven't changed them since the early 1990's (much has been learned + invented since then if you were unaware). Don't go throwing out "evidence" using the worst manuals in paintball as a source, or stuff from other gun designs (even if there are similarities).

As for the lubes, sure they are designed for o-rings, but that's not to say Dow 33 on the cup seal doesn't work wonders at stopping leaks. It's not an o-ring, but it seals air nonetheless. Back when Autocockers were the tournament guns of choice, MANY people used Shocker lube on the internals and LPR with excellent results. If I posted this up in the year 2000, many a Cocker-shooter would back that info up. Lubes always have multiple applications. There is ALWAYS an exception.

If you want to dish out this much effort go ahead and write your own guide. I'd be interested in reading it. I don't want my guide page to border on a PbN argument filled with clutter. It's meant to help.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#11 Iram

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 09:02 PM

We could argue this all day. Basically your argument comes down to "do it my way because I claim that it works in my experience", and I'm saying "Do it the way the manual says because it's worked fine for me, and the manufacturers of poppet guns all agree". Obviously I'm not going to be able to convince you to change. You've had years to get set in your ways. I've been shooting cockers since the late nineties, and I'm also set in my ways.

I'm sure if you put enough force on the jam nut in a traditional cocker valve you can get it to seal, but youre going to wear down the parts by doing that. On a Trilogy, Black Magic, or SR, you don't have that option.

Older cocker manuals sucked, but the same instructions are also in the SR for basic maintainence. I looked up the manuals from several other poppet guns, including Eclipse, and none agree with you on lubing the cup seal.

Most of the seals in an LPR are all rubber o-rings. I didn't mention anything about LPRs, and your original post didn't either. Dow33 is an o-ring lube. I'm sure it works just fine on the o-rings inside most LPRs. I used to hang out in the WGP section of paintballforum.com (or was it forums...it's been a while) from about 1999-2000, and I never say any mention of using shocker lube.

EDIT: Vice, I'm trying to put together a FAQ for the autococker SR. Can you write a short summary of what you think should be done for cleaning that I can add? People should get to see both extremes [me vs you] of cocker maintainence. http://www.techpb.co...?showtopic=8262

Edited by Iram, 26 November 2008 - 10:21 PM.


#12 VICE_ROY

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 10:43 PM

Pm'd ya...

Edited by VICE_ROY, 26 November 2008 - 11:24 PM.

"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#13 oerllikon

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 02:33 AM

This would definitely be more useful for the newbies to cockers, AKA me a year ago. Good write up. I know how lost you can feel when you first get an autococker.
Thanks
My new signature is better than ever

#14 VICE_ROY

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 08:13 PM

This would definitely be more useful for the newbies to cockers, AKA me a year ago. Good write up. I know how lost you can feel when you first get an autococker.
Thanks


Yeah, noobies and those who want to know how to get their cocker shooting at it's best.

Thanks for the appreciation.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#15 wgp2002

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 12:39 PM

I still use 3 in 1. Always have always will until it causes a problem. Im sure all of those other techniques work but why fix something that isnt broken.
The lesson here is love your gun dont give a shit about what people say about it.. if it fits you keep it if not move on. I get enough crap from kids who think autocockers are shit when most have never shot one. Every angel I ever shot was smooth but they were out of my range so i went with an autococker instead. Now I have a couple and they are my babies. Love the sport Love your gun whatever it may be and Love yourself .. maybe not in that order. CockerOwnerClub

#16 VICE_ROY

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Posted 19 December 2008 - 09:13 PM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#17 Iram

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Posted 20 December 2008 - 07:05 AM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?


I've played with a cocker in snow (December '99 in MA). Didn't have to do anything special to it, temperatures were probably mid 30s to low 40s.

I've yet to take a cocker out into serious (20 degree) cold. Most paint doesn't like those temperatures, and most batteries start failing at that point, so I'm just going to be playing indoors.

#18 VICE_ROY

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 03:20 PM

bump

Lets keep this guide alive for any Cocker owners having troubles.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#19 oerllikon

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 04:43 PM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?

Yep, with HPA, this is the most consistent gun ive shot. It was about 0 when i shot mine.
Still shoots like a dream
My new signature is better than ever

#20 Iram

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 07:18 PM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?

Yep, with HPA, this is the most consistent gun ive shot. It was about 0 when i shot mine.
Still shoots like a dream


Is that a mech or electro? I've got a winter scenario game at the end of February and I'm trying to decide on a marker...

#21 VICE_ROY

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 08:05 PM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?

Yep, with HPA, this is the most consistent gun ive shot. It was about 0 when i shot mine.
Still shoots like a dream


Most consistent gun you've ever shot is a Cocker in the winter? Damn, must be tweaked to perfection!

What experience with other guns could you compare that too?
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#22 VICE_ROY

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 01:05 AM

Anybody shooting an Autococker out there this winter?

Yep, with HPA, this is the most consistent gun ive shot. It was about 0 when i shot mine.
Still shoots like a dream


Is that a mech or electro? I've got a winter scenario game at the end of February and I'm trying to decide on a marker...


You know you want your Timmy Iram...hehehe

I'd hate to have to worry about short stroking with frozen fingers :lol:
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#23 wgp2002

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 01:10 AM

i shot my cocker in 18 degree weather up until i dislocated my elbow and shoulder.. it was good but the paint didnt like my barrel was a bit too cold
The lesson here is love your gun dont give a shit about what people say about it.. if it fits you keep it if not move on. I get enough crap from kids who think autocockers are shit when most have never shot one. Every angel I ever shot was smooth but they were out of my range so i went with an autococker instead. Now I have a couple and they are my babies. Love the sport Love your gun whatever it may be and Love yourself .. maybe not in that order. CockerOwnerClub

#24 Nefarious79

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 03:51 AM

Using Hater Sauce V2 on my cocker and I have not had any issues.

#25 VICE_ROY

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Posted 02 March 2009 - 12:59 AM

Using Hater Sauce V2 on my cocker and I have not had any issues.


What parts/components?
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#26 Nefarious79

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Posted 02 March 2009 - 08:00 PM

Using Hater Sauce V2 on my cocker and I have not had any issues.


Bolt, 3 way, anything with an oring, or thread, makes screwing or unscrewing thing much smoother.

#27 VICE_ROY

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:59 PM

If anyone's got some methods of LPR lubing lets hear it.

I usually leave mine until it fucks up (rare) and when that happens it's either a teardown+lube or a replacement.
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#28 Toriphilewill

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 01:38 PM

Nice topic. I didn't realize there were that many lubes/methods to choose from.

#29 VICE_ROY

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Posted 05 February 2010 - 01:54 PM

Yahyah. UP!
"I don't always shoot Spool Valves, but when I do, I prefer the Geo2" (The Most Interesting Man In The World)

"All the angles are at angles, there's a bumper inside the bumper, and the reg is completely air flow, flowing air faster in two different directions...and then they cross eachother. The bolt kinda like an Eclipse, it's just a keets-a-bobble. There's always varr-ubles, and you've gotta remember, uhh...there's always varr-ubles" (Bob Long in the G6R Video)

Gewn Owners V4 - Look at Your club, now back at Ours.

#30 Rav3l

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 07:08 PM

So would any of you recommend shooting Violent PB oil through the ASA? or are we strictly by Planet eclipse ( which is a good oil btw)....

#31 Demon

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 11:32 AM

oil is oil.

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#32 Danny D

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 01:27 PM

Great write up. I usually do the exact same to my cocker. To those saying you risk damaging the outer valve o-rings, its a 15 cent replacement, not a big deal.

The only thing i would change is the lubing of the cup seal. Most other poppit designs, and their manuals (spyder, piranha and i think azodin) specifically say NOT to lube the cup seal. Furthermore, reg valves work the same way. Valve reg seats operate the same way as a cup seal, as it uses a peice of sealing material instead of an o-ring to control flow. And ALL regs reccommend you do NOT lube that seal, only the o-rings and piston stem.

Im not 100% sure the reason behind this, but if other companies and all reg manufacturers reccommend this, then i would highly reccommend shying away from lubing the cup seal with cockers.

#33 trigg3r happy

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 02:52 PM

i use petroleum jelly on trigger plates and sears

#34 plan_b

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:02 PM

did a little google and i think the grease i got is good enough.


this is a good write up. if i cant play, might as well tear the thing apart.

Edited by plan_b, 08 February 2012 - 09:29 AM.





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