Through much research, I've found that WGP manuals (and almost all other Autococker manuals) are TERRIBLE...the instructions for lubrication and maintenance in those things are so old school, from back when people used Vaseline and all that sort of crap in their guns because there was simply little-nothing else available yet. I learned right away I'd have to do some experimenting and find out what works best. If you need help on how to perform any of these following procedures (such as removing the internals, or other parts) follow the link, cockertech has been around for awhile and pretty much all the info on Joe's site is dead on.
Let's get started!
My preferred Autococker lubricants:
1. Dow 33/Shocker lube/SL33K lube. It's all the same, just different names.
2. Planet Eclipse gun oil (bottle design makes for easy use, and there's nothing better).
I'm extremely meticulous with my equipment, whether it be paintball, Motocross racing, downhill mountain biking, whatever. If you think the timelines on the lubrication are too demanding/you don't care that much, fine. The focus of this article is the types of lubes to be used, and their applications to different components of the Autococker. Here we go…
1. At least once every year/playing season, strip out the internals found in the "bottom tube" (valve assembly, hammer, springs, IVG) and lube them up with a Dow33 type lube. Clean and lube up the cup seal and valve, all the surfaces of the hammer (save for the lug, maybe), and if you really want to go all out, a little on the springs, and face of the IVG. To keep the valve from getting harmed, a little on the tip of the valve guide set screw, and face of the jam nut (the side that holds the valve in place) can go a long way. Re-install, and re-time (instructions on timing can be found either on cockertech.com, or the Autococker TechPB video). Dry fire it with the barrel off 50 times or more (if you got even the tiniest bit of lube inside your valve, this will shoot it out of the gun, and not down your barrel!). There's really nothing to go wrong in cocker internals, they're very solid, so don't worry. This procedure may seem like a lot to some, but it goes a long way and it makes the gun feel smoother and "healthier" if you will, for quite a while.
*Side note* After doing this in depth teardown maintenance, you don't need to, and probably shouldn't, do the next part (shooting oil through the ASA) for about 4-5 days of play, maybe even more. The effects of a lubricating like that are going to last, and the idea of mixing fresh Dow 33 and gun oil in the valve doesn't sound appealing.
2. Old School Method: After 1-2 days of play, simply remove the inline reg, put 3-5 drops of Eclipse oil in there (and hold the gun upside-down until you attach the reg and macroline, and air up the gun…don't wanna get this stuff in your reg) air up the gun and shoot off 30-40 blanks or a few more if you'd like. This is "the old school" method of lubing (that still works great on cockers nonetheless) that is also done on blowbacks as well. A decent amount of lube will be dispersed everywhere the air travels through the Autococker.
3. Every day of play, I clean the 3-way shaft (or actuator rod) and inside the 3-way, then lube the o-rings on the shaft with Eclipse oil. Then I take off the trigger frame, clean any dirt and grime, and lubricate any of the moving components with Eclipse. After doing this, re-install everything and sit there pulling the trigger a few dozen times to work the oil around. Doing this every day of play will ensure that the trigger components and 3-way create no drag, cycle like butter, and the gun shoots as fast as it can with little-no short-strokes. I've tried Dow 33 on the shaft, but due to it's air sealing nature, it actually effects the position of the recocking point! So I don't recommend that. But anyway, this is one of the most important services on an Autococker, in my opinion.
4. As for the bolt, all my cockers have delrin bolts so I usually just run it dry, cleaning it regularly. Steel bolts should be lubed on the o-rings and any of the parts where metal will contact the inner body. If I ever choose to lube MY bolt, it's almost always with Tri-Flow, just on the o-rings. I much prefer a well cleaned, dry bolt though, even on my Vice
5. If you want to maintain everything and the kitchen sink, lubing the ram is also great. If you have a ram that you can unscrew to disassemble (not take of the gun), do so! Clean and lube the inside of the ram housing, as well as the seals and ram arm. Eclipse oil is the best option here to avoid grime in your ram (you can try Dow33 or 55 if your ram is leaky!). If you can't disassemble your ram, or don't want to, then either
A. Squeeze the trigger to pull back the 3-way shaft (if using a hinge frame, just leave it in the forward resting position) and put 2-3 drops of Eclipse into the 3-way, then air up the gun and cycle the oil into the ram.
B. Pull the back block back, exposing the portion of the pump arm that rests inside the ram. Apply Eclipse oil to the entire portion that goes inside the ram, ensuring it is basically covered in the lubricant, and maybe has a drip forming on the downward end. Push the back block forward again, leave it in there for 30 seconds or so, then move the ram back and forth to work around all the oil. If you wish you may also air up the gun and do some dry firing to get it all worked around, for a smooth, slick cocking action.
*For pumped cocker/Sniper owners*
Since with a Sniper you'll be shooting much less paint, at much lower rates of fire (unless you've got an auto trigger or something), and obviously don't have pneumatics, I'd recommend performing Part 1 and leaving the gun for 3-4 months in terms of lubrication, before you use the old school lubing method. Then all you have to do to the gun after a day of play is clean any paint or dirt off, take out the bolt and squeegee the top tube, and you're completely done with the cleaning of the gun component of the setup. This gives you the time to wash the barrel and clean the hopper, so your pump is clean as a whistle and shoots darts. This way, you're also ensuring the internals are in good shape on a seasonal basis when you pull them out.
For timing on a pump, there's nothing to it. If you like it to fire half way put it there. If you like it to shoot at the end, fine. Whatever floats your boat. Resetting a Sniper after a lubing should be a cinch.
-In place of the Dow 33, I could see Lurker lube, Planet Eclipse LUBE (not Eclipse oil) Dye Slick lube, and possibly TechT Gun Sav as possible options in being used on Autococker internals. But, I'm pretty sure that Eclipse, Dye, and Mac Dev greases are all Dow 33 just like the Smart Parts SL33K lube, and probably the exact same stuff. Hater Sauce is said to gunk up, so I don't recommend that. Dow 55 being basically the same as 33 (save for o-ring swelling), can be used but there's really no o-rings to swell besides the valve body (which doesn't seal air anyway). As for the TechT stuff, I'll have to try it before I approve it; it seems really gunky and sticky.
For the most part, I'd say stick with what works and pick up a tube of SL33K. Anyone who has other opinions on greases please post up!
-As a substitute for the Planet Eclipse oil, there's not much out there that can take its place. Gold Cup works but just doesn't leave the trigger feeling as smooth, and the bottle tip design is very strange. PMI/Extreme Rage oil is JUNK...maybe get away with that on a Tippmann or Spyder. AKA did make oil at one time, not sure if they still do. If you can get your hands on that stuff let me know how it works. Otherwise, just stick with Eclipse…it's got a great eye dropper style tip for precision, and if it's good enough to maintain lightning fast Ego's, it's good enough for anything else that requires oil, and probably the best solution.
There you go. That's what I found works best, through much testing and experience, to keep your Autococker shooting MONEY! Post if you have any comments/questions, or just want to speak your mind about what's written. Thank you very much!
Edited by VICE_ROY, 22 July 2009 - 08:55 PM.