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Autococker SR Help, Troubleshooting, and Board Settings


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#1 bigluch1

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 12:10 PM

For all of you Autococker SR owners who are having troubles with your marker or are just looking for some guidance on settings/adjustments, here is my first attempt at throwing the SR community a bone.

From what I have seen on the net so far, there is not a whole lot of detail on the Autococker SR or what the optimal settings are for the gun when you take it out of the box. I have also seen a lot of B&M (that's bitching and moaning) on the net because their gun is chopping balls like crazy and is nothing more than a paint "blender" or that autocockers are old technology and that they suck in general. While I would love to go on a rant about that, there is another time and place for that.

With that said, let's get this show on the road…

As mentioned on Mike's great review/video on the Autococker SR, there are 4 Key adjustments that need to be made in order to avoid issues with marker before operating it.

1.) Watch Time: 400ms

This needs to be set to 400ms from the factory default of 200ms to ensure that the bolt will stay open long enough to allow another paintball to fall in to the breach without chopping it in half. It is important to note that the bolt will close before the 400ms are up if the eyes detect a paintball in the breach, so there is no need to worry if this is going to significantly harm your rate of fire/BPS.

2.) LPR (Low Pressure Regulator)

Out of the factory, the SR's LPR (for some reason or another) is set very high and needs to be lowered in order to prevent chopping and to allow the marker to operate more effectively. The best way to achieve this is: Gas up the marker before adjusting it to see how it fires dry, then lower the LPR until the marker will not even fire (for those who are unfamiliar with the LPR, it is located in the front of the marker and can be adjusted with an allen key). Then, continue to increase the LPR pressure while firing every so often and continue to do so until you achieve a complete shot. After you have the marker completing a shot, I would give the LPR another quarter turn or so with the allen key to make sure youll have enough pressure when firing at high rates.

3.) Lug Adjustment

I have seen this adjustment overlooked on other forums and reviews (aside from Mike's video which addresses it well), but it is an important one when timing the SR. If you want to know more of the mechanics of the Lug and reasons behind it, WGP explains its function in their manual on page 9 towards the bottom, you can also watch Mike's youtube video as well which offers an explanation. I will just describe how to adjust/time it properly:

For those who are completely clueless as to what/where the Lug is, if you are looking at the gun from above, it is underneath the bolt and the allen screw that adjusts it is the only one you will see underneath the bolt. If you unscrew the IVG (allen screw at the very end of the gun), you will find a spring, just beyond the spring is the Lug.

Now, to adjust the lug properly:

a.) Make sure the gun is de-gased.

b.) Remove the bolt from the gun.

c.) Unscrew the IVG located at the end of the gun.

d.) Take out the spring and IVG screw and lay it aside.

e.) At this point the lug will travel back and forth but will not be able to fall through the end of the gun. You are going to now unscrew the lug via the allen screw located at the top of the gun as mentioned above. (it is important to keep track of how many turns it takes to unscrew the lug in case you want to return the lug back to how it was from the factory.) You want to unscrew the lug until the lug is no longer attached to the sear which for me took about 4 full turns (you can tell when this happens when the lug is able to fall out the back of the gun.)

f.) Now you want to screw the lug back in until it catches the sear again, this can be achieved by making quarter turns until the lug catches and can no longer fall out the back of the gun. Once this is achieved, make one full turn of the allen screw and you should be right where it needs to be.

g.) Reassemble the gun and rejoice.


4.) Ball In Place (BIP) Delay

Ball In Place (BIP) delay is the time the marker waits after the eyes detect a ball until the bolt closes. The factory default is set at 2ms, however, if you have a slower hopper or are nearing your last 20 paintballs, the 2ms default can be too short and lead to chopping a ball. So, even with a fast loader, I would increase this time to at least 5ms and would recommend something closer to 15ms. If you are still experiencing chopping after all these adjustments and with BIP at 15ms, try maxing it to 25ms to see if this is what is causing the problem.

At this point, you should be able to gas up your SR and fire it effectively without destroying paint in the breach. There are other adjustments you can make on the board to make the gun perform more to your liking, but at this point in time, the SR should be operating well.

Now that your SR is up and running, I have listed below what I feel is the best settings so far for the SR (still need to use it more to make some minor adjustments this upcoming weekend, so there may be edits as follow up.)

Optimal Board Settings:

Marker set up:

14 Inch freak
CP Shorti Reg (stock reg is ok, but I prefer something a bit more consistent)
New ASA and dropforward (stock ASA is manageable, but had drop and ASA laying around)

Debounce: 15ms

Sear On Time: 4-5ms (depending on the position of your lug) Mine is set at 4.5

BIP Delay: 15ms (mentioned above)

Anti Mechanical Bounce (AMB): 2-3 (factory setting is fine)

Open Delay: 10ms (helps prevent blowback)

Watch Time: 400ms (as seen above, very important)

Close time: 10ms (though factory default of 14ms works fine)

I hope this was helpful to some, I know I had questions when I got my hands on an SR and was not able to find much out there in terms of Guidance. Now that I have it set up, the gun shoots beautifully and is a solid overall marker. For $200 bucks a pop and some patience, you can't really go wrong here. The gun is very accurate, consistent, fast, average efficiency, average weight, fantastic Tadao board, overall great package for the cost.

If anyone has any questions/opinions/corrections, please feel free to add to this thread.

Thanks!

#2 brycelarson

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 12:17 PM

good stuff.

#3 Geektechnica

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 01:10 PM

Thanks a lot! I'm expecting my new SR to be delivered tomorrow, so this will definitely come in handy!
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#4 bigluch1

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 04:30 PM

No Problem G, let me know if you run in to any trouble getting the marker set up.

#5 Geektechnica

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 05:10 PM

My SR was delivered yesterday.  Setup out of the box seems ok, I know ANSGear is testing and adjusting them before shipping now, the board settings were pretty close to what you outline above.  I haven't checked on the LPR pressure and the lug position yet, as I haven't had much time to play with it yet.  Though I did swap the stock ASA for a CP mini on/off as I did notice the same problem a lot of people have with the on/off not actually disengaging.  

I have to say though, I am LOVING this thing.. I put a hopper or two of paint through it in no time flat.  I do definitely need to get a smaller barrel back though as I was getting a LOT of roll-outs with the stock .689 back.




Overall, I can't WAIT to bring this thing out on the field.


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#6 bigluch1

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 05:19 PM

I actually just got back from a day play with it. I would try to use the gun with just adjusting the board. I would mainly focus on the Watch time and BIP delay be set appropriately to correct the chopping issue.

My SR was working fine early in the day but for some reason it started burping (pushing air out of the bolt after the gun had fired initially causing somewhat of a burping sound and also causing mis-fire or double firing). I think this might have to do with the adjustment I made to the lug. So, if you SR operates fine with just board adjustments, I would leave it be. I am going to push the lug in further to see if that is where my problem is.

I am leaning towards the lug as the issue because any board adjustment I made did not effect the gun burping, so I want to say its something mechanical. I'll keep you posted if I discover what is causing the problem.

I also noticed that ANS gear adjusted some settings differently from the factory, so perhaps they already tinkered with the lug.

#7 N4cer

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 10:52 PM

Any update on your burping, bigluch.

#8 Pnut

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 07:44 AM

hi anybody know where i can get a clamping feedneck for the sr? i dont wanna have to shave my halo down

#9 bigluch1

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 10:13 AM

N4cer, nothing new about the burping, I tried a couple adjustments to the LPR and Lug and was unable to alleviate the problem. I called up a tech at Kee Action Sports (new owner of WGP). I told him what the SR was doing and he told me to send it in and he would take care of it under warranty. It is currently over there with Kee now, Ill let you know what the verdict is when the tech fixes it.

Pnut, You shouldn't have to shave down a Halo feed neck to fit the SR standard clamping feedneck. If you unscrew the top screw on your stock clamping feedneck completely out, then take the halo and force it in to the neck, it will expand the collar on the feedneck and go in. That is why there is a space in the back of the feedneck so it can expand/flex a bit to fit bigger hopper necks. Then after you get that Halo on, just put the clamping screw back in and make it tight, but not too tight, you don't want to strip the screw or crack the Halo.

Also, if you still insist on getting a need feedneck for the SR, I believe the SR feedneck is compatible with Ego feednecks, so you should be able to buy a replacement/aftermarket Ego feedneck and use it on the SR. Although the Halo should work on stock neck.

#10 Pnut

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 02:05 PM

N4cer, nothing new about the burping, I tried a couple adjustments to the LPR and Lug and was unable to alleviate the problem. I called up a tech at Kee Action Sports (new owner of WGP). I told him what the SR was doing and he told me to send it in and he would take care of it under warranty. It is currently over there with Kee now, Ill let you know what the verdict is when the tech fixes it.

Pnut, You shouldn't have to shave down a Halo feed neck to fit the SR standard clamping feedneck. If you unscrew the top screw on your stock clamping feedneck completely out, then take the halo and force it in to the neck, it will expand the collar on the feedneck and go in. That is why there is a space in the back of the feedneck so it can expand/flex a bit to fit bigger hopper necks. Then after you get that Halo on, just put the clamping screw back in and make it tight, but not too tight, you don't want to strip the screw or crack the Halo.

Also, if you still insist on getting a need feedneck for the SR, I believe the SR feedneck is compatible with Ego feednecks, so you should be able to buy a replacement/aftermarket Ego feedneck and use it on the SR. Although the Halo should work on stock neck.


well imma tool's free kinda person =P...i just wanna clamp it and lock it in without any tools...the halo fits in really tight soo i was afraid of cracking it but ya im goin to try the ego..so any ego necks should work?

#11 bigluch1

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 03:11 PM

I assure you the Halo won't crack in the stock SR neck as I have abused mine pretty good so far and haven't had any problems...

However, if you insist on switching it out, an ego aftermarket feedneck should work, I am not exactly sure if the Ego threads have changed since the gun first came out to now as I am not a Planet Eclipse guy myself. I would check around other forums to be sure, but it is my understanding that a feedneck meant for an Ego will fit an Autococker SR.

#12 Pnut

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 08:30 PM

I assure you the Halo won't crack in the stock SR neck as I have abused mine pretty good so far and haven't had any problems...

However, if you insist on switching it out, an ego aftermarket feedneck should work, I am not exactly sure if the Ego threads have changed since the gun first came out to now as I am not a Planet Eclipse guy myself. I would check around other forums to be sure, but it is my understanding that a feedneck meant for an Ego will fit an Autococker SR.



ya i've heard that ego's fit but not too sure which one..soo im gonna check around and if i do get one ill give yall heads up.thnx for all the info man ur the best!

#13 bigluch1

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 09:55 AM

N4cer, update on the burping:

Received the marker back from Kee action shooting amazing. Explaination of problem was "Timing"

Tech reset the board and adjusted the settings to WGP's optimal settings. I didn't write them down but I will post what I can remember off hand for now and when I get a chance to write the settings down I will post a complete listing.

Based on WGP's Autococker Tech, this is the best settings for the SR Board:

Watch time: 400ms
BIP Delay: 15ms
Close time: 18ms
Sear on time: 5
Open time: 3ms (I think, but can't remember for sure, will confirm on my next post).
Debounce: 10

Again, once I write down the exact settings I will list everything in detail.

#14 Pnut

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 03:49 PM

ok just got a clamping feedneck for the SR..got me a 05/06 EGO CP clamping feedneck fits perfectly..soo ya an 05/06 EGO neck works fine

#15 Robert Janis

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 08:48 PM

can i get somebody that owns an autococker sr that is working to take a look at their sr from the top when the bolt is forward and tell me if mine is set up right? because shouldnt that spot where an allen key goes in be lined up with where the bolt pin is?


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#16 bigluch1

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 09:31 AM

View my PM, should help you out, if so let me know and I will post my message here in this thread.

#17 TeaPot

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 07:42 AM

Gents, any recommendation for a delrin bolt for SR?

#18 bigluch1

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 02:05 PM

I wouldn't recommend upgrading the bolt on the SR as the stock bolt is already very light and already made of derlin (to my knowledge). The marker is already very accurate and has a high rate of fire with the stock parts.

I personally don't think that you will notice a difference between the stock bolt and an upgrade, so in my opinion, it isn't worth spending the money.

#19 jdlarson11

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 03:02 PM

this should be pinned

#20 plan_b

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 01:15 AM

hi,
i just got a used sr and i am wondering on the bolt opening adjustment? when you manually pull the bolt back, is it suppose to leave the chamber wide open. does the mechanical autococker adjustment still apply to this one.

thanks

b

#21 Mark14

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 02:29 AM

Looks good This need A Stickie NAO!
Can you upgrade the g rips on these things

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#22 littlepb

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 02:38 AM

im buying mine off of ansgear.com it comes pre tuned so its perfect right out of the box
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#23 jdlarson11

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:09 AM

im buying mine off of ansgear.com it comes pre tuned so its perfect right out of the box



yeah they are coming tuned out of the box, wonder if they are using Mikes settings?

#24 Robert Janis

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:16 AM


im buying mine off of ansgear.com it comes pre tuned so its perfect right out of the box



yeah they are coming tuned out of the box, wonder if they are using Mikes settings?



yes, they are. or atleast mine was
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#25 jdlarson11

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:29 AM



im buying mine off of ansgear.com it comes pre tuned so its perfect right out of the box



yeah they are coming tuned out of the box, wonder if they are using Mikes settings?



yes, they are. or atleast mine was



what was your watch time and BIP when they sent it to you?

#26 bigluch1

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:31 AM

Plan_B: in regards to your bolt/timing question. Although the SR has similar components and function like mech cocker, timing and adjustments are not the same between a SR and Mech Cocker. While the SR has a ram and ram arm like a mech, it is hidden under the aluminum body of the gun to make it sleek and sexy. You should not need to adjust the ram arm or bolt position as you would a mech.

On that note, if you try to manually pull the bolt back, it will not clear the breach all the way in most cases. This does not mean that the SR is not timed properly, you just cannot test if the bolt on the SR opens back far enough as you could do for a mech cocker by simply pulling the bolt back all the way. I would not worry about this adjustment unless your SR is truely not functioning. Trying to manually adjust the ram arm on an SR could be a tedious and difficult task, at least compared to a mech cocker. So I would just leave it alone as it is most likely fine.

Everyone else: ANSgear.com is tuning the SR out of the box. However, when I received mine in the late spring from ANSgear, I still had some troubles. They only adjusted the watch time to 400ms (max) and everything else was at factory, they did not adjust the BIP delay or anything else. So I personally still experienced some issues until I finally got the SR to rip. Just keep in mind that you should always try to use the marker first and identify if there are any problems before trying to fix something that isnt broken.

If I remember to, I will post my SR Board settings which are set up straight from the SR tech from Kee Action Sports. The settings should be the optimal board settings for the SR and should make the marker perform much better than the stock settings.

But overall, great marker, just be patient and the $199.99 investment becomes very worth it.

Edit: My Watch time was 400MS and my BIP was the factory setting (dont remember what that is off hand but I know I checked the manual when I received it back in the spring.)

Edited by bigluch1, 05 August 2010 - 09:32 AM.


#27 brycelarson

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:33 AM

I personally don't think that you will notice a difference between the stock bolt and an upgrade, so in my opinion, it isn't worth spending the money.


there's no reason to change basically anything on this gun. Other than the ASA, feedneck and barrel this gun is already sporting the best stuff you're going to find for it.

Can you upgrade the g rips on these things


not really. It's a super goofy shape. Feels great, but I'm not aware of any aftermarket grips.

yeah they are coming tuned out of the box, wonder if they are using Mikes settings?


Very similar. Don't know if they used his, they found their own version or what - but the new "factory" settings are really close to what Mike got to.

#28 jdlarson11

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:35 AM

^^^

Great reads, mine is on the way.

Any idea on how to sweet spot it? What the inline pressure should be?

Do you still have to adjust the lug when ANSGEAR sends it to you?

Edited by jdlarson11, 05 August 2010 - 09:34 AM.


#29 Robert Janis

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:36 AM

watch time: 400 ms

BIP delay: 15 ms


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#30 brycelarson

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:37 AM

^^^

Great reads, mine is on the way.

Any idea on how to sweet spot it? What the inline pressure should be?

Do you still have to adjust the lug when ANSGEAR sends it to you?


start by shooting. If it's working well and seems pretty efficient - leave it alone. That's rule #1 for any cocker. If it's not broken - don't try to fix it.

#31 Robert Janis

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:38 AM

^^^

Great reads, mine is on the way.

Any idea on how to sweet spot it? What the inline pressure should be?

Do you still have to adjust the lug when ANSGEAR sends it to you?


i didnt need to adjust the lug, and dont ask me why but apparently your not supposed to sweet spot the reg on the sr. i remember them talking about it in the cocker owners club
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#32 jdlarson11

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:39 AM


^^^

Great reads, mine is on the way.

Any idea on how to sweet spot it? What the inline pressure should be?

Do you still have to adjust the lug when ANSGEAR sends it to you?


start by shooting. If it's working well and seems pretty efficient - leave it alone. That's rule #1 for any cocker. If it's not broken - don't try to fix it.



But what if i want to make a youtube video taking everything apart and seeing if it works? Posted Image

Gotcha I will leave it alone

#33 bigluch1

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:41 AM

Jd:

Reg Pressure:
Factory is set at around 350Psi. I run my CP reg at about 350-375. This should be plenty of pressure to keep the marker firing consistently and not starve the SR of air. I would say your safe range is between 350-400, but I would not exceed 400psi. You can get a feel for what works also by just making incremental changes, but I like to stick to factory settings for the pressure as they generally know best of how to operate their marker (minus their board settings).

Lug adjustment from ANS: I would leave it be unless you notice its a problem. If the marker works fine, dont try to adjust it if it doesnt need to.

Sweet spotting: I think the biggest trick on this marker is getting the board settings right. outside of that, I would not mechanically adjust much on the marker. I would just make sure the LPR is set right so you are as gentle as can be on paint. Then I would get my board settings in order. At that point, the gun should be sweetspotted as much as can be.

#34 jdlarson11

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:45 AM

Jd:

Reg Pressure:
Factory is set at around 350Psi. I run my CP reg at about 350-375. This should be plenty of pressure to keep the marker firing consistently and not starve the SR of air. I would say your safe range is between 350-400, but I would not exceed 400psi. You can get a feel for what works also by just making incremental changes, but I like to stick to factory settings for the pressure as they generally know best of how to operate their marker (minus their board settings).

Lug adjustment from ANS: I would leave it be unless you notice its a problem. If the marker works fine, dont try to adjust it if it doesnt need to.

Sweet spotting: I think the biggest trick on this marker is getting the board settings right. outside of that, I would not mechanically adjust much on the marker. I would just make sure the LPR is set right so you are as gentle as can be on paint. Then I would get my board settings in order. At that point, the gun should be sweetspotted as much as can be.


Thanks so much luch, this needs to be pinned, great help!

#35 plan_b

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Posted 06 August 2010 - 07:51 AM

i just got a used sr and its still chopping paint. the history from the previous owner said it was too much of a pain messing with that.
i tried the software settings and still no luck. the ball always get jammed up in the chamber and the bolt gets locked in place.

so how far should the bolt go back when manually pulled back? and if i do move it back far enough, does that mean i can bring the watch time and bip to a lower setting?

Plan_B: in regards to your bolt/timing question. Although the SR has similar components and function like mech cocker, timing and adjustments are not the same between a SR and Mech Cocker. While the SR has a ram and ram arm like a mech, it is hidden under the aluminum body of the gun to make it sleek and sexy. You should not need to adjust the ram arm or bolt position as you would a mech.

On that note, if you try to manually pull the bolt back, it will not clear the breach all the way in most cases. This does not mean that the SR is not timed properly, you just cannot test if the bolt on the SR opens back far enough as you could do for a mech cocker by simply pulling the bolt back all the way. I would not worry about this adjustment unless your SR is truely not functioning. Trying to manually adjust the ram arm on an SR could be a tedious and difficult task, at least compared to a mech cocker. So I would just leave it alone as it is most likely fine.

Everyone else: ANSgear.com is tuning the SR out of the box. However, when I received mine in the late spring from ANSgear, I still had some troubles. They only adjusted the watch time to 400ms (max) and everything else was at factory, they did not adjust the BIP delay or anything else. So I personally still experienced some issues until I finally got the SR to rip. Just keep in mind that you should always try to use the marker first and identify if there are any problems before trying to fix something that isnt broken.

If I remember to, I will post my SR Board settings which are set up straight from the SR tech from Kee Action Sports. The settings should be the optimal board settings for the SR and should make the marker perform much better than the stock settings.

But overall, great marker, just be patient and the $199.99 investment becomes very worth it.

Edit: My Watch time was 400MS and my BIP was the factory setting (dont remember what that is off hand but I know I checked the manual when I received it back in the spring.)



#36 Chace365

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Posted 06 August 2010 - 07:53 AM

Isn't there already an SR FAQ in the manufacturers sub-forum? Might be helpful if you link to it in the first post. Iram has great advice on it, just as you do.
Just an idea. ;)

And Mark14, there aren't any grips that currently fit the SR other than the stock ones. Contact SPD (Stinger Paintball Designs) if you want a new set of grips for the SR. Or, make your own out of delrin or lexan.
Lexan can be picked up at a hardware store, usually next to the plexiglass. Delrin must be purchased from someone who has it (usually stores that carry mill equipment)

One that I'm looking at picking up delrin from is McMaster Carr.

Edited by Chace365, 06 August 2010 - 07:56 AM.

Want to be an ASS-HAT?
Go ahead and put a big FIRST as a reply to someones question.
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#37 brycelarson

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Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:42 AM

But what if i want to make a youtube video taking everything apart and seeing if it works? Posted Image

Gotcha I will leave it alone


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#38 jdlarson11

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 10:24 PM

got the sr working ok, only issue im having is breaking one every so often, i have adjusted all of the settings properly

#39 brycelarson

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 10:30 PM

got the sr working ok, only issue im having is breaking one every so often, i have adjusted all of the settings properly


same with mine. I think they might just be touchy with loader settings. They cycle wicked fast - and since the eyes dont' work like other guns they're a bit rough on paint.

#40 speedwoods39

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 10:34 PM

I use mine with a rotor and so far (knocks on wood) it hasn't chopped much at all. the only time it really went to town on the paint was when I accidentally turned off the eyes. thats when you realize just how fast the gun really does cycle. <_<
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#41 jdlarson11

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 10:42 PM

its almost like the gun is too fast for its own good, im just going to play semi 10 bps.

#42 bigluch1

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:29 PM

Well, if you turn the eyes off, you are almost certainly destined for disaster.

This gun cycles so fast its stupid. That being said, it is very entertaining to turn the eyes off and dry fire the gun when it is uncapped. Although I would never recommend actually feeding paint in to it under those conditions...unless you like cleaning up a mess.



#43 plan_b

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:27 PM

what hopper are you guys using and whats the max rof setting?

mine is still a work in progress. waiting on a new reg, but i have an empire reloader2 and it seems to work well at 10-12 for now.

#44 Robert Janis

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:34 PM

im having some trouble with my SR, when i air it up and go to shoot the bolt shoots forward, and then slowly comes back. when i pull the trigger again it does the same thing. my watch time is 400 ms and my BIP delay is 15. can anybody tell me how many turns out the LPR, HPR, and IVG should be because i dont have any air so i cant test it. anybody know what the problem is? and do you think it has anything to do with the lug?
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#45 plan_b

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 03:09 PM

check out this link for the manual.
not sure if you have a copy.

based on mine; the lpr is 1.5 turns in, clockwise from flush. the hpr is set about 1.5 out from all the way in. the ivg is at about 3 turns in when starting with the ivg o-ring is just past the body.

this setting allowed the sr to shoot, but when i tried to chrono the thing, i couldnt get the velocity set properly starting with the hpr. it was just all over the place from 180 to 280. im just waiting on a new reg.

did you adjust the lug at any time?

im having some trouble with my SR, when i air it up and go to shoot the bolt shoots forward, and then slowly comes back. when i pull the trigger again it does the same thing. my watch time is 400 ms and my BIP delay is 15. can anybody tell me how many turns out the LPR, HPR, and IVG should be because i dont have any air so i cant test it. anybody know what the problem is? and do you think it has anything to do with the lug?



#46 jdlarson11

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 03:13 PM

im having some trouble with my SR, when i air it up and go to shoot the bolt shoots forward, and then slowly comes back. when i pull the trigger again it does the same thing. my watch time is 400 ms and my BIP delay is 15. can anybody tell me how many turns out the LPR, HPR, and IVG should be because i dont have any air so i cant test it. anybody know what the problem is? and do you think it has anything to do with the lug?



try screwing your lug in a bit further

#47 paintmydrum

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 12:05 AM

i just bought a new one. adjust a few setting just on the bps. and very often ill get like a tripple shot out of one ball. and i think its bounce. how do i get rid of this.

#48 IdarkI

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 01:32 AM

Hey guys,
Just got my autococker sr in the mail today and before I even put any air into the gun I made all of the adjustments that were mentioned on this forum. The gun was definitely not shooting correctly so I decided to take it apart and clean it. I stripped the gun down and cleaned pretty much every every inch and nothing is helping. At this point my sr doesn't leak, the board turns on and I can hear clicking when I pull the trigger but the gun will not cock back or shoot when I put air into it. If I manually pull back the bolt, the gun fires that one shot but will not recock again. I messed around with the pressure and that doesnt seem to be the problem. I'm new to electric guns, having just upgraded from my 99 autococker. I have definitely learned a lot in one day but I can't seem to figure what the problem is. One more note. In mikes video he talks about lug depth and he says that you should have your lug one full turn from the point of falling out of the back. The problem is that when I do that the bolt doesnt stay in the back position when I manually cock the gun, it just slides back forward. On a side note, when I took the gun apart the front part where the three way and where the wires from the board plug in fell off and looked like it broke in one spot. I was able to out it back together. I'm wondering if that could be the issue.

Thanks in advance

#49 IdarkI

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 06:02 PM

Just had a local tech look at my gun and he had to replace my solenoid. He retimed my gun and said it was working fine. I got it home and it was still not shooting. The gun just keeps chopping paint and it seems like about of air is being forced out of the holes on the side of the ram. It doesn't seem like enough air is coming out of the barrel. The solenoid is working fine now and the gun is able to recock itself. One more problem I have is when i pull the bolt back into firing position and it locks in place it's not fully clearing the feed neck. Any help would be amazing. Thanks

#50 plan_b

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 08:57 AM

from what i learned, it is not necessary to clear the breach when you manually pull the bolt back. when its aired up and setup correctly with the lpr, the bolt is opened up enough for the ball to go in.


hows the electrical connections that you mentioned in your previous posts? are they all completely secure? just want to eliminate that variable.

do you still have the stock asa? my one sr asa was a pain. wouldnt turn off and i dont think it was going full on either. my other sr, everything works perfect.

are the eyes still working right?

Just had a local tech look at my gun and he had to replace my solenoid. He retimed my gun and said it was working fine. I got it home and it was still not shooting. The gun just keeps chopping paint and it seems like about of air is being forced out of the holes on the side of the ram. It doesn't seem like enough air is coming out of the barrel. The solenoid is working fine now and the gun is able to recock itself. One more problem I have is when i pull the bolt back into firing position and it locks in place it's not fully clearing the feed neck. Any help would be amazing. Thanks






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