Before you read anything this is a work in progress, my end goal is cataloging just about every common marker out there. This will take many hours to do and I don't feel like doing it in one marathon run. I will be doing it company by company so please don't make comments like "Well what about ******!?". Walls of text do not build themselves and they take time, please be patient. Also I'm not looking to write a book on each marker, some descriptions will be brief and certainly straight to the point do please don't complain about a lack of variety, that facts are the facts and that is what I'm presenting here. Criticizing replies will be clipped; I know, guys.
Okay, so I often see people asking a few common questions, those questions being the following:
"Which gun should I get?"; "How much is ****** worth?"; "Do you guys know about the ******?"
Well, I'm going to do my best to go over as many guns I can think of that I know of and have experience with, their perks and downsides. Don't get me wrong, I'm not expert, I may be a Mod but I myself haven't been in the game forever like much of the staff. I actually asked CrazyLittle last night "Which guns don't you know?", his reply "Tippmanns, I never owned one, and Spyders, I know the basics but haven't really used them". So no, I don't know everything but I've tried to soak up as much as I can through owning/using/working on the guns I've owned as well as friends so here we go. I'm going to try to keep it brief, no not everyone will agree and I'm not looking to argue, once again these are my opinions and I'm not saying they're all right.
Note: All prices based on value used in decent condition and stock June 18th 2010.
Note: This is in regards to the use of QEV's with Egos, I'm going to do my best to quote CrazyLittle from our Skype call.
The Ego 05/06 uses QEV's, 2 of them, as does the Ego 08, the Ego 07 uses one. This is the reason that you cannot use grease on these guns because it can gum up the QEV's. The reason that it became common for them to begin tearing in the 2008's is due to the fact that there was some type of change in the formulation of the rubber. This largely went on unnoticed until after all of the Ego 08's had been shipped, closer to 09. PE began by giving free QEV diagram replacements however eventually stopped and it became the responsibility of the owner. The QEV's in the 5 and 6 are the same QEV's used in the Eclipse cockers.
This is why it's a good idea to get your hands on extra diaphragms for the 08, with the issues with the rubber they tear prematurely and it's just a matter of time until they tear. It's been thought of as being roughly every 30 cases or so of use. Thanks to CrazyLittle for educating me.
- Ego 05 - This gun is rock solid reliable, it is very easy to maintain and doesn't need much maintenance. It comes with an LCD board for viewable modes and is quite easy to navigate, it is also quite efficient and a solid performer. I would definitely recommend this gun to newer players considering it's ease of use and maintenance and the fact that they just don't ever seem to break. They are also a great value for the money you spend on them, for lower than the cost of an entry level gun you get high end performance. This gun also has a great full colour manual and Eclipse has some of the best customer service out there. The only downside I see with this gun now is the weight of it, by today's standards it's a pretty bulky gun and lugging it around all day can get a bit tiring, I personally am not too fond of the trigger and I'd recommend installing a CP sling if you don't like it. Other than that this gun is a rockstar.
Note: Buy a few extra rubber finger detents, these detents are the same as the Intimidator detents and they will burn out after extended use resulting in multiple balls being loaded and fired.
- Ego 06 - The 06 is basically the exact same gun as the 05 so I won't go on about it in detail, all the same as above applies. One thing to know is, that the Ego 06 is the most durable Ego as of today, build to survive two nuclear winters.
- Ego 07 - The Ego 07 was the Ego completely revamped, Ego7's major design shift was moving from a rammer-sleeve to an integrated rammer chamber milled into the body. Ego7s have 1 QEV, while Ego 5, 6, 8, all SL have two QEVs. I personally would recommend avoiding it seeing it was seen as a bit of a "buggy" Ego, basically they got it right in 08 is what I'm saying. The Ego 06 was a smoother shooter and some had issues with the gripframe and body not fitting together properly. If you're looking at an Ego 07 my advice would be either A. save a few bucks and get an 06 or B. spend a few more and get an 08 =).
Note: If you buy an 07 I'd recommend picking up some QEV Diaphragms from Oringmonkey.com before heading out on the field too much. If that diaphragm goes you won't be able to chrono over 200fps. The italicized text is also a contribution from CrazyLittle who is our walking paintball encyclopedia.
- Ego 08 - For some the Ego 08 is seen as "the best Ego so far". Overall the Ego 08 is a solid performing gun, reliable, easy to maintain, efficient and it feels GREAT in the hands, PE has some very comfortable grips. It also has a nice low sexy profile and as always a great board, some may complain about "kick" but frankly I don't see it, you feel the gun working that's about it. I personally am not a huge fan of the trigger but that's only because I like a smooth rather than a snappy trigger, many see it as one of the best stock triggers out there. For the money in my eyes this is one of the best guns out there to buy used. It is not only one of the best Egos ever made and one of the best stacked tube poppets ever made but it comes relatively cheap for how much gun you get. The Ego 8 is also seen by some as being the last Ego that gives some decent response from the gun when shooting, some may hate on PE's for having too much "kick" while some like that feeling from their gun. From there on in PE began to change their focus from the high BPS rate to a smoother shot. The Ego 9 wasn't designed with this in mind however with the addition of the planks began this change in focus.
Note: Like the 07 have QEV diaphragms on hand, those things shit out after about 30 cases.
- Ego 09 - This is a gun I have limited experience with, though being a big fan of PE I have gotten my hands on one and asked MANY questions =). So, the 09 overall is a great gun, it no longer has the issues with the QEV's having nipped that problem in the butt from the previous year's model. It is overall a stellar marker especially once you drop the plank kit in (which you get free from PE for registering it with them). The planks give it a smoother shot so what you're left with is as always with PE a great performing gun that is reliable, efficient, consistent with a great board and even now you can get them for a decent price.
- Ego 10 - *drool* This right now is basically my dream gun, like all Egos great performers overall, efficient blah blah. Key changes from 09 being the addition of the Zick 2 rammer, new board programming which slows down the bolt for a smoother shot, a much larger screen window and a new S3 reg. This is the smoothest shooting Ego out there with no real weaknesses that have been seen as of yet. The only thing I've heard negative about it is that the consistency may be a little off and it may shoot a little rough out of the box just because the reg has a bit of a break in period.
- Geo - Don't ask me what it is, I just find this to be a very sexy gun, it feels great in the hands and I just like it. For a spoolie it isn't very smooth at all, it shoots more like a poppet than a spool I find and being a spool obviously it won't get the efficiency a poppet would. As a platform however it is a solid gun, I haven't heard any complaints about it going down. It has the same trigger as other PE guns and as always a great LCD board from PE. In my eyes however if you're looking for a spoolie I'd grab something like a DM or Droid if you want a nice smooth shot.
- Geo+ - This is for the most part a Geo 1.1, it included the GR2 kit added which was the addition of a substance similar to loctite to prevent screws from backing themselves out in the grip/frame/body. Also had a new HPR piston to help with the longevity and safety of the piston and helped to prevent the gun from being over-pressurized. New prop shaft fixed a problem with the ball not being cupped by the bolt enough causing chopping issues, with the new shaft the ball sat closer to the bolt similar to the cure system, and it also fixed an isse with the volume chamber screw being able to be backed out until it flew off...
The GST kit is also included, It's a three piece upgrade, consisting of a bolt, can, and prop shaft spacers.
The spacers are there simply to reduce the volume of the firing chamber. This aides in the use of reballs, in that you can shoot them as slower velocities while keeping the operating pressure in the optimal range. To reduce velocity, the spacers simply reduce the amount of air fired instead of the pressure of the air fired.
The bolt is designed with a full face; it's not open like the stock bolt. This makes it easier on paint, as the force of the bolt hitting the paintball is distributed now over a larger area (as opposed to the focused ring of the open face bolt), slightly softening the strike on the ball when it's being loaded into the barrel. The bolt's rear end also has a step milled into it, so that when it passes over the plunger seal of the prop shaft, the seal opens more softly, and at a slightly reduced rate. The air exits the chamber with a softer sound, and a slower rate of expansion.
The can works with the bolt (with as far as I can see, a smaller vent hole in between the two large outer static seals) to slightly restrict the speed of airflow and slowing down the bolt's movement. This is supposed to reduce the "kick" and the sound signature. The slower speed also reduces wear on the bumpers.
The GST kit removes the token "pop" sound of the Geo with a slightly more typical spool valve sound. The shots are slightly less pronounced, and not as harsh. It's not a particularly drastic difference, but certainly a tangible one.
Thanks to everyone's favourite Grammar Nazi Sticktodrum for his explanation of the GST kit for the Geo.
Note: The GR2 kit is a free upgrade from PE, do not be conned by someone into thinking it adds value to their gun when buying.
Used: ???; (Thanks to HeroForADay for the info on the +)
- Etek - Given the fact that you can score them cheap as all hell this is a great gun for the money. It is based off of the Ego 5/6 and for the most part is an Ego without an LCD. Mechanically they are extremely similar, reliability, efficiency, it's all there for a low, low price. If you can get lucky you may be able to find one with a STAR frame which itself is worth about $100 which gives you a screen and the choice of micro or optical switch.
- Etek2 - Much the same as above, a little lighter, a little more updated and the guts of a champion and once again you can score these quite cheap. It is basically a rebuild of the Ego 06 without the LCD screen. This is one of those guns along with the Etek and Ego 5/6 which make buying an entry level gun pointless unless of course you want to have a new gun with warranty.
- Etek3 - "Little evil", that's what this gun is, for the most part what you're getting is an Ego 09 without an LCD and without the QEV issues. The Etek3 comes in 2 configurations, the LT which is made of composite and the AM which is made of aluminum and has the capability to have an LCD board installed in it. I personally prefer the LT, I see it as a better value considering it is slightly lighter than the AM and $100 cheaper. I also don't like the finish of the AM, the rough unfinished aluminum in my mind makes it look/feel cheap. Overall this is a solid gun especially given it's low price tag of just $475 new, there is no reason to buy any other mid-end gun. I personally am not a fan of the trigger but that's just me.
Used: LT $400ish; AM $500ish
- Vice - The reason so many Vice owners love their gun is for the simple fact that for such a low cost you have a gun that is reliable as all hell, it's a great performer, it competes with all current superguns out there and the simplicity is a joy. You don't have to worry with a Vice, air it up, mow face, repeat. In order to set it properly, again same as the Protege set your LPR between 70-80 psi and go with factory settings and you're done. This is one of those guns that stock out of the box will compete with any gun on the market for a fraction of the cost. Many prefer this gun even over the Ego 9 and frankly only now has there been a gun which competes with it the Ego 10 now that PE is focussing on a smoother shot and even then the Vice is still more efficient.
This is my personal favourite gun and in my opinion is the best gun for the money in existence. The Vice is if you ask me and several others very close to the "perfect gun", it is a no nonsense performer, it just gets the job done and does it reliably and with efficiency. With the Vice you're getting a gun which is light, extremely efficient, has a very smooth shot for a poppet, a great board, S-Class trigger which I love, it's a milled out trigger with a roller bearing and spring return, awesome for those who like semi. Everything about the Vice is stellar, it is a very easy gun to maintain and run and it doesn't need much maintenance in the first place. Maintaining it is simply a matter of removing the bolt, popping out the back cap and relubing the rammer. Maintaining the reg and LPR is also very easy to do, I can maintain my Vice in 5 minutes flat.
The way it goes with Bob Long is basically this gun is for those who want a gun that performs, it's a no nonsense shooter. It doesn't come with an OLED or fancy packaging, but for a low cost, $750 new or about $450 used you have a world class supergun. The Egos are more user friendly with a screen, they do feel better in the hands and they do have nicer packaging with tools, lube and a manual but the Vice, oh I just love my Vice lol.
If you need a manual it's online, as for tools and lube if you don't have them drop by oringmonkey.com and he'll hook you up, tell him -ORaNGe- sent you, Dave is a great guy to deal with. Also if you ever need help with your Bob Longs PM me =)
Don't let the fact that the Vice doesn't come with a manual dissuade you, I can assure you it's very simple to work on. If you have a problem there is a wealth of info out there and maintenance and operation is a breeze. Also the Vice and Tadao manual can be printed from online.
Note: When it comes to lube be sure to use DOW55, if you're covered by warranty on your Vice BLAST requires you to use this lube or you void your warranty. Once the warranty is up however feel free to use DOW55 on the rammer, and DOW33 on the LPR and HPR and oil on the bolt. Don't put DOW55 on the bolt the DOW55 can cause the bolt tip oring to swell and catch on the breech breaking it leading to all kinds of nastiness.
Used: $425 - 475ish
Well before I get into this I will tell you guys that I came into paintball in 2007 and frankly I don't know about Timmy's prior to the Gen 5's. So I apologize for leaving them out, I will however get someone to fill in the blanks I'll piddle behind me.
- Protege - The Protege is one of my favourite guns overall and in my eyes one of the best guns for a beginner. The Protege is basically a cousin to the Marq and little brother of the Vice. It is a stacked tube poppet using the same bolt as the Vice (minus the pillow) and the same rammer. Mechanically it is the exact same as the Vice, the key differences being the milling, the Protege uses a stock Frenzy board same as the Marq, it has a Marq trigger (No bearing) and the Protege has a collar feedneck rather than a tooless lever locking feedneck like the Vice. As for weight it's less than an ounce of weight between the two with the Protege being .8 ounces heavier.
Overall here is how I see this gun, this gun I see as basically the best beginner gun out there for $300 or under, I know some people may disagree but that's how I'm calling it. The gun is very smooth for a stacked poppet, smoother than the Ego 9 with planks installed even. It is also one of the most efficient, it gets the same efficiency as the Vice it gets about a case off of a 68/45. The trigger is great, the board is good, the reg is great, and best of all these guns take an absolute beating and just don't seem to ever go down. For the money you're going to pay for a new entry level gun this gun used BLOWS THEM OUT OF THE WATER. If you put a Tadao board in this gun and a level locking feedneck you've basically got a gun equivalent to an Ego 9 in performance.
Note- An LPR tester with this gun, like the Marq is a must, don't guess at it, get the tester if the gun you're getting doesn't already have it included and set your LPR pressure properly. You'll hear settings anywhere from 70-80psi, anywhere between this range and you're golden. Also one nice thing about this gun is that factory settings are pretty much ideal, set the LPR and rock and roll.
- Marq Series - The Marq is a beautiful gun, one of my favourite shooters out there, it is commonly mistaken as a spool valve due to it's appearance and how it shoots, it is however an inline poppet. Basically the engine has the rammer running through it in a single tube and the poppet is mounted on the rammer, at the end of the rammer the bolt connects with a ball in cup connection. The Marq is a very smooth marker and I love the shot, it also has a lower sound signature than other poppets. The only down side of the Marq series guns is that it lacks the efficiency of a stacked tube poppet, it is however very reliable and doesn't require a lot of maintenance. Maintaining it for the first time may be a little intimidating due to the engine it uses but I assure you it is quite easy though a little more time consuming than the other poppets out there. It also has a ridiculously low profile feedneck with the feedneck of your loader resting just a few millimeters above the bolt. This gun also used spring mounted detents, so no need to replace burnt out detents every couple of cases.
This gun comes stock with a frenzy board (3.0 at the time) which is fine for any recballer out there, if you're going to be playing tournaments an upgrade to a Tadao board may be a good idea. One thing you will need with this gun is an LPR tester, once you get it set your LPR pressure to about 70psi for the best performance. Please do not try to estimate how many turns of the adjustment screw you need or try to ask a friend how his is set. Just get the LPR tester and set it properly. Also if you tend to break the 2 larger orings on the outside of the engine I'd recommend not using DOW55 on those 2, go with something like triflow or another gun oil. One thing to watch out for when maintaining this gun is not to get lube on the back side of the poppet because that can possibly cause leaks and some crazy shots. If when you first air up a Marq and you get a leak down the barrel just take the engine out, relube your orings and slide the engine back in, this seems to be a little common with inline poppets. Also cycling the gun with eyes off can also stop these leaks on occasion, this only seems to happen when the gun sits for a long while though.
Please don't mistake the long description as me stating this is a gun with flaws, it is a very solid engine and very reliable gun. It just needs some TLC, though overall I wouldn't count this as a beginner gun, a beginner can use it and learn how to properly maintain it you just need the will to learn and do some reading =).
Marq series guns falling under all of this general info, also rough values used.
- Marq 6: very light, first of the Marq series (Note: I owned a Marq 6 myself and loved it.) Used: $325ish
- Marq 7: heaviest due to a longer snatch grip - Used: $325ish
- Rapper: light due to sexy milling, also has a limited edition with lasering - Used: $350 - 400ish
- Edge: limited edition with very sexy milling - Used: Haven't seen any.
- Russian Legion: limited edition that features an extended clamping feedneck for dorito players (removable) - Used: No idea.
- Closer: Marq with all of the trimmings, Tadao board, closer trigger and 4c eyes, also the lightest Marq - Used: $550 - 600ish
- Darq: limited edition run of 126 guns, lucky barrel, bearing trigger, 4c eyes and on/off ASA - Used: $550 - 600ish
Tippmann is the only company from "back in the day" that is still alive. There were three, WGP, AGD and Tippmann, and WGP & AGD went under around 2004/2005. While AGD is still live and sells the mechanical RT Mags and spare parts, and WGP is still selling some markers, the latter is under JT (thus, Kee) government and AGD is run out the garage. Both companies may still exist on the paper, but have lost much of the old glory. Tippmann bases it's success on catering to the MilSim crowd, and provides the most readily available optical addons for any marker out there to turn them into Real Steel look-alikes. Also, Tippmann offers the Flatline barrel, which is covered in videos and articles on this board left and right. It is available for the 98, A5, X7 and the X7 Phenom.
The issue I have with Tippmanns is: As soon as you upgrade it, there is almost no turning back. They are money pits, and you can buy stuff endlessly to get them up and running. My advice on upgrading is: Go all out or go nowhere. All out is neatly defined by Canada's Tippinators, especially Tin Man, who has one of the sweetest '98s ever. Convince yourself here. If you do not want to go that far, leave it stock, with an EGrip or RT Grip being the only upgrade for the gun, and QEV/Squishy Paddles, should it have a Cyclone Feed. Everything else will be so diminutive in effect, that you should better save the money.
- 68/Pro Carbine - A sturdy design void of a lot of cosmetic additions, this is basically the quintessential Tippmann Blow Back marker. It can take more than a fair beating, and shoots as the 98 does. It is also quite clunky and heavy, but for some people, it is the marker from Tippmann. You rarely see these nowadays, as they are out of production.
Used: $85ish (as they become more and more rare...)
- Model 98 incl.: 98 Compact, 98 ACT, 98 Platinum ... - This is basically the most spread Tippy out there. All it's iterations have their sturdyness in common, but also the weight, the loudness and thy are rough on paint. As the marker is an unregulated system, they also tend to be rather inconsistent, with FPS being all over the place. It takes a lot of effort to tune these beasts, but when you go the distance and have the abilities to tinker with them, they are quite often surprising. TechPB's Tipp98ChopShop has his own '98 here.
- US Army Series incl.: Alpha/Bravo Black/Tactical, Carver One, Project Salvo... - This is a 98 with different shells. There is no more magic to it, nothing special. Basically, you buy the 98 already fitted into a look-alike with limited capabilities to add on further. The US Army tries to build up a following for future recruitments with these series, just as they did with the America's Army game series. If you want a quick entry into MilSim, without the money pit, that might be the fastest way.
Used: $80 - 125ish
- A5 - This is basically a 98 with a Cyclone Feed. All the above apply. To note: There is a plethora of MilSim addons out for the A5, with a lot of them coming from Tippmann, and even more from aftermarket manufacturers. The general truth is, there is more "dead weight" to be bolted on than performance upgrades, and the same holds true as for other Tippmann markers: Go all out, or don't go anywhere when it comes to adding parts. If you are dead set on MilSim, you can find almost everything to add to make it look like a certain Real Steel weapon, though. Still, it is a rough marker, and the Cyclone Feed also adds to the roughness. Squishy Paddles highly recommended.
- X7 - This is still the same marker as the A5 or 98, also has a Cyclone Feed, and also has a plethora of drop-in kits to make it more MilSimmey. To note, the X7 has a magnesium clamshell, thus being a bit lighter than A5s. Otherwise: Same old, same old.
- X7 Phenom - This is the first time in a long series of markers that Tippmann brought out something new and stunningly beautiful. The Phenom is a completely different animal. The secret is, this is basically an AGD EMag, hiding inside the X7 shell. It is capable of firing in mech and electric mode, has the Level 10 anti-chop bolt which stops as soon as it encounters resistance, rips and provides easily the best Tippmann has to offer nowadays. If you are in the market for MilSim, skip all the other guns, get this. It's gentler on paint, fires consistently, loves high input pressure (975psi? No problem. Ask Ninja for a reg that has that output!) and if the batteries go down on these long scenarios, just switch to mechanical! Love it. If I would ever go back to MilSim, that'd be it.
- TPX- Tippmann made, to my impression, the best pistol out there. Now, taking the First Strike out of the picture, there is easily no sidearm/handgun as small, ergonomic and easy to operate. The magazines are cheap, the CO2 change is quick, and it is just a very, very handy package. If you think ab out a pistol to monkey around with, this is the way to go. Sadly, Tippmann is adverse to adapting the FS round for its pistol, which puts it at a disadvantage to the Tib 8.1, but in comparison to the T8, it takes the prize.
- Mini Gen 3 - This is Invert's only gun, the Mini, it is an inline poppet. The Mini has come in three generations, my personal advice is to avoid anything but a Gen 3 Mini. Just incase you are saying "Well, it can't be that bad", below I list issues common to the Gen 1.
Overall I have to say that I do like the Invert Mini, it is a great shooting marker and actually quite reliable now that Invert has all of the bugs worked out of it. It has a smooth shot and a decent trigger and is just a little monster for the price. The Mini is the first marker to come out with no macroline, instead it has piping in through the grip which connects to the base plate of the body and goes into the noid. The ASA on the Mini is also the regulator and the gun operates at 200psi. The board is housed in the front grip and the button to turn it on/off is at the rear of it just under the trigger guard. When buying lube for this gun keep in mind that you need to use a lube which is silicone based.
If you have larger hands however I wouldn't really recommend this gun, it is quite small and frankly you won't be likely to be happy with your purchase. Also if you like to grip around the reg of a gun this may not be the gun for you since the front grip has no gap between it and the trigger frame. One thing the Mini is somewhat known for is how difficult it can be to unscrew your tank from the asa/reg. If this does happen to you it may not be the best bet to just try to force it because you may unscrew your tank reg from the tank unless it has the factory loctite holding it in place. What I would recommend is turning it on with eyes off and dryfiring as you unscrew the tank. This dryfiring will drop the pressure which is pressing the tank threads into the asa's threading and you'll be able to unscrew it. You do not need to shoot your tank empty, just dryfire and unscrew it, you should be fine.
Issues common to Gen 1 Mini
-Intermittent on/off from the board
-Spring gouges the bolt because the ends are flush with the bolt and is sharp. This can cause leaks. Bolts coming with claims that they will not be gouged are flat out wrong.
-Trigger magnet (for activating noid) was on the end of a screw and often pops off so the gun will no longer fire.
-Worn bolt guide orings causes blowback and chopping
-Board programming and settings needed to be updated.
If you do get a Gen 1 or Gen 2 Mini and have issues contact Kee Action Sports and they'll hook you up.
Dangerous Power offers midrange guns all across the board and with the G3/G4, one of the lightest semi electropneumatic markers out there. They have both poppets (The Fusion series) and spoolies, dump valves, to be completely true - the G series. Dangerous Power also holds the patent on the lever clamping feedneck and has one of the best ASAs out there: The RAPS, a lever action ASA that opens or closes the air flow in split seconds, including purging the system it is attached to.
Regulator notes: When recieving a G3 based marker, and it has the stock reg, open up the reg and check if you have a red piston in there. Should the piston not be red, call DP for a replacement. This part is what makes the regulator get stuck and stop operating, when it starves off because of insufficient pressure. Once the reg is stuck, you need to depressurize the system, and carefully take the reg apart. Keep in mind, it will most likely still hold some pressure - do this extremely slow and cautious. After taking it apart, clean all shims ( Sequence: ()()()()() ! ) and put a drop of oil on them, so they are glistening with oil, but not drenched. Put the reg back together, and air it up. This time, give it a little more pressure before the first shot.
- G3/IQ - The first iteration of the G series, the G3 or IQ (functionally the same marker, slight optical differences) is extremely light and comes with a dip-switch board. It is plagued by the same problems as the other G3 based markers: A flimsey trigger, a shim-stack regulator that is prone to getting stuck and a "meh" optical board. If one replaces these parts, it turns into a very reliable sewing machine, for a fair price. I recommend the 7th Element board + CP trigger package, for a quick and cheap fix. As for regulators, basically anything goes - I use an Evil Detonator on mine. Another thing to note: The power button is a tad bit too far away from the outside rubber, so pushing it is often very hard. It helps to rip out a tiny bit of foam and stuff it under the rubber cap over the button. Regardless of their smooth firing properties, the G-series aren't very efficient. Keep that in mind.
- G3SE - DP upgraded the board, so it is actually adjustable with combinations of the powerbutton and trigger pulls. Furthermore, the one piece barrel is now a two piece barrel and the milling has changed. The anodizing is two-tone ... that's about it. Otherwise, everything pertaining to the G3 applies to the G3SE aswell.
- G3 SpecR - Again, DP made minor updates to their gun platform, with the biggest change being the oringless bolt. Now, as a spoolie still needs orings to seal the firing chamber, the orings are still there, but in the body rather than on the bolt. Still, the SpecR has even worse efficiency than the prior G series, which is in favour of the cheaper and more efficient versions. In favour of the SPecR though, the marker has now a micro-switch trigger and is fully programmable and the trigger is an magnetic adjustable one. It has pros and cons. Decide as you might.
- G4 - in it's latest iteration, DP fixed a lot of issues from the prior series: 4-way adjustable trigger, programmable microswitch board, spring reg instead of shim stack, overhaul of the barrel/raps/milling, and seems to be the nicest one so far. We still have to wait for results on efficiency, though, as the G4 is also oringless on the bolt.
Used: $275ish? - they are brand new, and list price is US$ 299.
Azodin is a company that came to be when former Spyder employee Eric decided to bugger off and venture forth. Taking his ideas with him, he later came out with the entry level marker Spyder always should have been: autococker threads, standard screws, regular ASA holes and a dovetail, regular Regulator seat, a snappy trigger and a clamping feedneck (Ion threaded, to boot). He gave us the Kaos, the Blitz and the Zenith, and then uped the ante by throwing the Azodin Kaos Pump on the market. All these markers are simply and easy to maintain, and provide amazing performance for the price.
- Kaos - The Kaos is a simple, sear tripping blow back marker, that has less kick than comparable designs because of a fairly light hammer. Internally, it is a Spyder, but with all the bespoke additions, they are hardly comparable. If you are on a tight budget or look for a beginner gun, I would stray no further - this gun is great for its price and every upgrade you might end up buying (ASA, regulator, barrel, macroline) can be used on your next marker, too.
- Blitz - The Kaos bigger brother, this sweetie has an electronic grip with firing modes, is fully tournament ready, has eyes to prevent chopping and delivers solid performance. While there are still some parts that one might work on, it's definately a good shooter - essentially, a Kaos with eyes and eGrip. It also has a regulator, reducing the kick further, ang gaining efficiency from more fine-tuning to the shot.
- Zenith - The cousin of the two above, the Zenith has all perks that make it worth the money. On top of all features of the prior versions, it has an LPR to smoothen the shot out or up the efficiency and an On/Off ASA, to save your tank threads. Basically, this is all you can do to the Kaos base marker to deck it out in one concessive package.
- Kaos Pump - This is somethign special. For only US$150, you can buy a pump that has one of the smoothest pump strokes I have ever felt. The internal polishing is so excessive, it feels like there is almost no drag. On the downside, KPs fart - they still have the valves of the Kaos and this setup is seemingly not as pump-friendly as others. A crafty pump player can replace the valve with a CCM SS25 and put some Mad Man Spyder springs into the gun to work around these noises, though.
-ORaNGe-: Taking a break, super busy at the moment.
Ced: Added some Azodin stuff.
Edited by -ORaNGe-, 06 July 2010 - 07:51 PM.