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Corrupted355

Member Since 03 Apr 2009
Offline Last Active Apr 26 2014 12:08 PM
*****

Posts I've Made

In Topic: The Techpb Gun Club

25 April 2014 - 07:12 PM

10mm is a phenomenal cartridge. It's the 357 Magnum of the semi-auto world. It's the literal do-all. You can hunt with it (I've seen guys take 250-300 lb hog with a 10mm) and use it for personal defense either in the woods or on the street. The thing to look out for is the fact that factory loads aren't exactly up to snuff. A lot of companies don't take advantage of the pressures that 10mm is designed to achieve, and you basically end up getting what turns out to be a 40 S&W +P.  You should be seeing at least a 2-300 fps increase from 40 to 10mm with the same bullets. Energy levels should be right there with hardcore 357 loads starting at about 650 ft-lbs and going up from there. Any lower than that, and you aren't taking advantage of the cartridge. If you need more punch than a fully fledged 10mm, go get yourself a 44 Magnum. Both 357 Magnum and 10mm have the unfortunate tendency to be loaded much lighter than their cartridges have the potential for. Underwood and Buffalo Bore are some of the only companies that really put out ammo in 10mm that realizes the potential of the cartridge.

 

http://www.underwood...m/10mmauto.aspx

 

As far as recoil, yes it is going to be more stout than you're probably used to if you've been shooting 9, 40, and 45.  Personally, I've had my idea of what recoil is readjusted by some very large rifle calibers, and my own Smith & Wesson 460 XVR revolver, which chucks a 360 grain 45 caliber bullet at 1900 fps, which I confirmed over a chrono. Recoil is relative. If you can handle it, you'll be fine. It's probably not going to hurt you unless you're limp-wristing a 9 or 40. What'll help is getting yourself a nice heavy gun like a 1911, which will help absorb a lot of recoil. 

 

If you're insistent on a Glock, I recommend going to a range where you can rent one, or borrow one from someone. First thing you do is put one round in the magazine. Fire that one, then make sure the trigger clicks once that round has been fired. If it doesn't seem like the trigger reset, that means you actually pulled the trigger twice, and would have fired the second round into the roof. You may laugh, but I see this this more often than I should with heavy calibers and people who aren't used to recoil. This is especially true in new shooters. And a if you think a nice heavy trigger pull will save you, you're mistaken The S&W 500 revolver has a 12-16 lb trigger pull in DA, and a woman was recently killed when the recoil caused her to double tap while at the same time the muzzle rise was so great that she shot herself in the head.

 

http://gunssavelives...hooting-range/#

 

And this is a similar event:


In Topic: The Techpb Gun Club

21 March 2014 - 07:39 PM

The Garand, M-14 (which is largely a modified Garand), FN FAL, AR variants, AK-47, and SKS sprettymuch make up the majority of the semi-auto battle rifles that were worth a damn last century. Anything else, you really can't get your hands on easily, or wasn't very successful. Unless you're willing to breech the technological barrier, which in my mind starts with the AR and the Styer AUG. For the most part, those two mark the beginning of the "modern" semi-auto rifle era, where plastic and high tech polymers started to invade every gun. Much like the Browning Hi-Power started to mark the standardization of semi-auto pistols, as it was the culmination of the 1911 design evolution. That pistol largely laid out the pattern for what a modern semi-auto pistol is supposed to look like and the features a hammer-fired pistol is supposed to have.

 

And therein lies the problem. There was a lot of originality in firearm design in the beginning of the 20th century because successful designs hadn't really been hashed out yet. A lot of originality, but by comparison, not a whole lot of success or even functionality. A lot of guns had neat or novel concepts, but never really panned out, or didn't work as designed or intended. Even the great Browning BAR didn't work as the weapon it was designed to be. They intended it to be a powerhouse of walking suppressive fire, but that style of fighting proved to be a bad idea, and instead the BAR basically ended up being one of the first Squad Automatic Weapon systems.

 

Around the middle of the century, successful designs that actually worked started to emerge and really show dominance. There was still some innovation going on, but it was slowing down as the definition of what would be successful was starting to come clear. Google the David Dardick gun and his "tround" (a magazine fed revolver, essentially)  or the Gyrojet pistol (basically a handheld 12 or 13mm rocket launcher) for neat designs that never caught on. Advances in arms technology these days revolve mostly around the development of new materials that allow us to make things lighter or have less recoil or handle better. Everything from plastic to caseless ammunition to save weight to new polymers and metals that allow guns to be be smaller, handle better and more ergonomically, and stay cooler through longer sustained fire.

 

So the question is: what are you looking for? Are you looking for the greats that set the standards of success in the 20th century? Because that's prettymuch them listed above. Or do you want some of the more off-the-wall stuff that may have been cooler or even in some cases better and more effective, but never really caught on. Those guns are usually obscure and difficult to procure. For a great website dealing with the obscure classics, head over to ForgottenWeapons.com and check those guys out. They also have a neat YouTube channel here.


In Topic: The Techpb Gun Club

20 March 2014 - 09:12 PM

You need a Mauser, probably a 98K. And a Springfield M1903. And a Swiss K31. And an Enfield SMLE. That should round out your bolt-gun collection.

What I've really wanted as of late was a Madsen LMG. It's the original light machine gun. All recoil operated with cams controlling everything. Inverted magazine feeds in the side of the gun, ejection out the bottom. And they came in about a thousand different calibers.

In Topic: The Techpb Gun Club

20 March 2014 - 07:04 PM

The only thing you have to do with corrosive ammo is clean your gun. By "corrosive", they mean "salt". It'll rust your gun eventually if you leave it sit for a time after a range session.

In Topic: The Techpb Gun Club

19 March 2014 - 07:46 PM

Not if you clean the cosmo out of the chambers properly.  I can cycle both my Mosins from the shoulder.


I have four Mosins. I hot tanked them all. Any cleaner and I'd be removing the bluing. One of them cycled smooth until it got hot, then you needed to smack it around. So I worked that one over, smoothing the bolt and locking lugs. That one is now my normal shooter. The other three are rough. I'm sure that with some work, they would get better, but for now my wife still needs a piece of wood to cycle them. No amount of cleaning will make a difference. It depends entirely on the individual gun, and probably how much breaking in each one got back in the first half of the last century.