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Member Since 13 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Jan 19 2015 04:36 PM

Topics I've Started

Empire Axe olive/earth FS $360

20 September 2012 - 09:05 PM

Price drop to $340
Marker: Empire Axe
Condition: LNIB. Aside from small marks on the velocity adjustment, not a single flaw on the gun or barrel. 3 cases.
Color: dust olive/earth
Upgrades: none
Known Problems: none
Asking Price: $360 $340
Shipping Options: negotiable
Trades of interest: none
Location of item: Lomita, CA
What is Included: Axe, barrel, box, parts kit (unused)

Ok folks, I'm selling my LNIB Empire Axe in olive/earth. The only reason that I'm selling it is that I've decided that I only need two pigs in my pen, and my frankenstein'd cocker and my sniper are by far my favorite guns. This gun works perfectly, never had ANY issues with it.

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See those little tiny marks? Those are the only evidence of this gun being used. No, really, that's it. No barrel marks (barrel is virgin, I used my freak from the very first shot), I use gloves when I clean, etc. That's it. For some reason, my iPhone decided to focus on the corner of the bolt retaining maze, apologies. (Corner of a curved surface? need a design engineer's input on verbiage here)

Edit: thanks Tk, not sure what happened there.

Pewter Orracle Autococker

16 April 2011 - 05:06 PM



Marker: WGP Orracle Autococker
Condition: Used, good, works great
Color: Pewter
Upgrades: Maddman blue springs
Known Problems: some wear in ano, chrome damaged on Tickler LPR and on HPR (see pictures) but functionally flawless
Asking Price: SOLD!!!
Shipping Options: USPS preferably
Trades of Interest: prefer cash, but: newer TiPX w/ extra 7rd mags, interesting cocker bodies, PPS guns, offer up and we'll see. I'm pretty open.
Location of Item: Lomita, CA 90717
What is Included: everything shown in photos

On the chopping block I have here my pewter Orracle. I really like this gun, but I prefer to use an eclipse frame, and can't justify having this matching beauty laying around. There are no leaks, and it shoots just fine. You will want to adjust the timing to match your preferences, as I just put on the new frame and timed it so it shoots, but its not really dialed in.

The Good: matching frame and .689 barrel

The Bad: the ram was bent when I received the gun, and I broke it in half trying to bend it back, so I replaced it. I THINK this is an in-kind replacement, but not completely sure. Looks the same anyway. Works just as well.

The Ugly: a previous owner left paint on the gun, and ended up with chrome damage on the Tickler and inside the trigger group. I cleaned up the trigger area, so that all works just fine. The Tickler still shows wear though. It still works just as it should. The HPR also shows some wear on the chrome, but nothing bad like the Tickler. Also, the gun has a few nicks here and there, as it wasn't a wall queen.

EDIT: I replaced the 3-way with a stock orracle 3-way and re-timed the gun. Works great still, no leaks. Also added a cheap chrome beavertail and like-new WGP jewel grips. Same as the ones in the pics, just new and shiny instead of old and busted.

Price is $240 shipped OBO. Price lowered to $215 shipped.

Trades I am interested in:
Newer TiPX's with extra tru feed mags (wanna try the pistol thing)
Rare or just plain cool cocker bodies
Anything from PPS, I would be able to add some if necessary
Toss up some offers, see what I say

(I know most of that was redundant from the mandatory TechPB info; I just copy-pasted the text from the ad on MCB and CC)

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microsniper spring suggestion?

31 December 2010 - 02:38 PM

Took my newly completed microsniper to the field yesterday, and couldn't seem to get more than 170fps out of it. I'm using a stock (and corroded) main spring from an orracle, and what I believe is a stock valvespring and valve. I have a maddman spring kit en route from compulsive, as well as a sexy Besales valve tool, so I was looking for spring suggestions.

Things to consider: stock valve, midget'd and mini'd body. I don't have a lot of experience with setting up cocker-based guns, but I do have a fairly decent grasp on how they work. A lighter valvespring should give me more more dwell on the shot, and increase my velocity, correct? The mainspring I will tune for pump feel, but I think I will need a stronger spring than normal to achieve proper hammer striking strength. Let me know if I'm on the right track here or if I'm wayyyyy off.

WTB cocker pump parts and halfblocked body

16 October 2010 - 02:42 PM

I think I want to build a half-blocked cocker pump, so I need to start sourcing parts. Iím looking for the following:

Half-blocked body, 2k+, preferably center-feed but I can do right-feed as well. Also preferably undrilled for eyes, but thatís not a deal breaker either. If it has all the proper internals, even better. If not, I can get those separate. If someone can point me in the right direction of a half-block internal kit, I could fab my own body. So I guess Iím also in the market for a full size windowed cocker body.

Single trigger slide frame or single trigger hinge frame

CCM, WWA, or SM pump kit

Any other bits and pieces Iím not thinking of that Iíll need

Color and condition of anodizing doesnít matter much. Once I get the thing built, if I like it, Iíll eventually have it annoíd.

Polishing barrel bore?

10 October 2010 - 09:17 PM

Since the internal finish of a barrel is probably one of the more important things one can look at when choosing a barrel, I want to try to get a mirror finish on all my barrel bores. Any suggestions? I have some brasso and some other polish (its blue? worked great on my OLD spyder aluminum body internals).

Here's what I had in mind.

1. Cut wood-handled swab in half
2. Insert wood end of swab into variable speed drill
3. Apply polish to swab, work into fabric a little so it doesn't get pooshed out at all
4. Holding barrel in gloved hand, insert swab with polish into barrel
5. Starting slow, then faster, turn and burn baby! Keeping the temperature down, of course.
6. Clean it all up with warm water, followed by the clean end of the swab I cut in half

I have no idea if this will work very well, so I'm going to try it first on a factory Ion barrel I have sitting in the garage. If it DOES work, I'll try it on my freak bores, which are starting to show some wear. Like I said, it worked wonders on a spyder I shined up a couple years back. When I ran the aluminum bolt in the aluminum body, both polished to a mirror, it felt like I was working with teflon. No friction whatsoever.

Regardless of how it works, I'll try to take before-and-afters. Who knows, you all might get to see a horribly deformed ion barrel.