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reepneep

Member Since 21 Apr 2011
Offline Last Active Dec 06 2012 06:21 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: HP vs LP tank regs

03 December 2012 - 09:24 PM



I made it too general and didn't feel like typing a giant write up like you did, but my info (if I added more information) is correct so you don't have to be a snob about it.

Markers have a factory recommendation on what to set your reg pressure at (tank). All you really need to know is that if you go with the Ninja adjustable, you should be fine with almost every marker out there.

Category 1: Some guns need a high input pressure and will not work properly with a low one. (some older e-guns, almost all mechanical ones, every pump that takes a tank except maybe the Thumper and very low pressure cockers)

Nearly all guns will run correctly on a high pressure tank.
Only some guns run properly on low pressure.
Almost no guns actually need a low pressure tank.


I run my cocker on lp and have shot numerous pumps with a slp tank and still work fine.

Oh, sure, they'll cycle (most of them) and you may even be able to get them up to velocity, but your efficiency will suck.

Stock 2k, pre-2k and most after market valves work best at 300+ psi. There are a few that sweet spot in the 200s. CCI, AKA, I think the maddmann rocket valve does too. The latter should be fine with a LP tank. The former will end up with lousy efficiency and at high rof, shootdown.
The valve in your orracle is pretty high flow (assuming its stock). You can probably get it to cycle all the way down to 190~ psi. You'll have a crazy long dwell and terrible efficiency, but it'll cycle.

You really need a tank reg to output at at least 200 psi above the gun's ideal operating pressure. With LP tank regs outputting at 400-450 psi most of the time, you're basically stuck with modern electros if you want a gun that will be really happy with those pressures.

Regardless, unless you know you're going to be buying one of the few guns that wont' work with an HP tank, buy an HP tank. They just work with so many more guns there's no reason not to.

In Topic: HP vs LP tank regs

02 December 2012 - 05:10 PM

There are no Pros for hp.


A con of running hp is that the reg does not recharge when you get to the lower psi's in your tank so you cannot squeeze out the last of the air. Hp regs can also blow out the seals in G6R's.

The opposite is true for lp but not all markers work for lp. If you are looking to buy a new reg, buy a Ninja adjustable reg.

See this guy? Don't listen to this guy, he doesn't know what he's talking about.
Except for the part about the Ninja adjustable reg. Its a good one, though pricy, and if you want to keep the same tank but change guns a lot, its not a bad idea.

Think of it this way.
Category 1: Some guns need a high input pressure and will not work properly with a low one. (some older e-guns, almost all mechanical ones, every pump that takes a tank except maybe the Thumper and very low pressure cockers)
Category 2: Some guns will work at either high or low pressure. (the majority of guns with built-in regulators)
Category 3: Some guns will not work at a high input pressure and actually need a low pressure tank reg. (there aren't many of these. angels, newer bob long guns)

Nearly all guns will run correctly on a high pressure tank.
Only some guns run properly on low pressure.
Almost no guns actually need a low pressure tank.

The reason that most tanks sold today output at ~800psi? Almost all guns can use that output pressure.
You should only buy a low pressure tank reg if you know the gun you want to put it on won't work properly with a high pressure tank reg.

In Topic: Cocker leaking like a mofo

21 November 2012 - 11:09 AM

It leaks down the barrel when un-cocked

This is normal. Just cock the gun before you air it up.

and leaks out the back(?) when cocked

This is not. What specific part of the gun is it leaking from in this case?

My first thought is that it sounds like you're going to have to go buy a valve tool and check the orings on the valve body.

In Topic: Spyder spring kits

23 August 2012 - 10:36 PM

Just so we're clear and nobody seems to know anything about Trillys:
Trilogies use standard Autococker hammer springs for the hammer, and Spyder hammer springs for the valve.

If you want to re-spring your trilogy, you may have to buy both an Autococker kit and a Spyder kit.

I'm assuming that since this is the pump forum, the Trilogy in question is a pump? Be warned, the green Spyder spring is still pretty hard, even with a couple of coils clipped off. If you want a light pump stroke you'll have to use a too-weak hammer spring and put up with some farting. (assuming you even want to replace the valve spring)

In Topic: 2003 Spyder Xtra leaking

08 December 2011 - 11:14 PM

Sounds like a leaky valve and recocking trouble.

As for the recocking there are going to be a few things it could be.
Is the oring on the hammer in good shape?
Is the sear worn? Shouldn't be if you've put only 1000 rounds through it but still worth checking.
Is the sear spring stretched out?

The leaky valve, there are really only two options barring damage to the valve or stem itself: the cup seal and the valve orings.
If the valve body and stem don't have any nicks or scratches on them, it has to be the orings or the cup seal.

If it were me, I'd just replace all the orings for both the valve and hammer, as well as the cup seal.

Spyders, like autocockers and other spring driven poppits, often leak down the barrel when they're gassed up but not cocked because the hammer is resting on the valve stem. Once cocked, though, the leak should stop.
Even with a really weak, old, stretched out valve spring the valve should still seal properly with 800-odd PSI behind it if the valve itself isn't causing the problem. If your velocity is too high after fixing the other problems, then consider replacing the valve spring with a harder one. Maddman makes a nice spring kit for spyders that also has a replacement sear spring.