I have an old Bob Long Defiant that sat for probably 10+ years and may not have ever been fired, not sure on that. Anyways, I brought it to the field this past weekend and it did not work properly. After connecting an n2 tank, the gun dry fired by itself once and then would not fire from a trigger pull. I brought it over to the gun techs and we checked 2 brand new batteries in it. The gun would fire while turned off (I'm pretty sure it was off) as soon as both battery posts made contact. I assume this has to be an electrical issue. Does the board need replacing, and are they even able to be found at this point? I have no technical knowledge when it comes to paintball, which does not help. I think I'd like to get the gun fixed if it's not too costly, but I fear that won't be the case. The gun is so sweet looking with the black w/ gold splash, it's a shame it doesn't work. One of the pro shop workers actually asked to take a picture of the gun
off is where the LED is not lit up, on is where the LED is lit up. so if its not lighting up either way, there is a broken connection/wire on the harness.
before putting air to it again, clean the regs. if its been sitting for any period of time, the regs will be gunked up. superlube is a great choice for lube and can be had at ACE, but you can use your favorite one. next, clean the noid. pull off the plate and strip off the old lube on the piston. you want just a very thin coating. put it back together. there are guide is you aren't sure on how to take apart and put back together on ICDO, both the regs and the noid.
after establishing when the gun is on or off, cycle the gun normally, through the trigger. if that doesn't work, separate the tray from the body. air up the gun, turn on the gun and on the noid, there will be a red button. push that. that button is the manual cycle button for the noid. that will help to see if the noid is working properly or not.
now, if the harness is F'ed up, i do sell replacement harnesses with new parts. details on ICDO and MCB.
unless the board is fried, it should still be working. i have my original board that's 11 years old and is still working fine. occasionally, chaos and nox boards pop up, but you can still buy Kila Boards. even though they are for Freestyles and Promasters, you can either desolder off the microswitch or just leave it on and go with the stock switch on the harness.
also, running a little oil through the ram wouldn't hurt. place a few drops on the ram shaft and just cycle the ram manually.
pics of the harness(to see if there are any visible problems) and the whole gun would be a plus(we at ICDO like eye candy).
actually you don't have to disable the blow back, as the bolt will be separate, and even as the hammer recocks, there won't be a paintball loaded. also, since the bolt will be locked forward, the hammer won't be flying back, as it will be held by the bolt. hell, a guy on PBN made an Angel into a pump, but can still fire semi. so anything is possible.
but you want to look at the action of a "bolt" in relation to a traditional bolt action setup. you will have to have the hammer slotted(U shaped so the back is left untouched, but the front is free), so the bolt moves independently from the hammer, but still can be recocked manually. this will give you basically a Evil Omen action. you can have the body slotted so you can bolt locked into the body, but that might be unnecessary.
there is more to do on your end, in how you want it, but i would stress that it would be easier and cheaper to get a pump than to change a semi into a bolt action. got plenty of coolness points with it, but if you are already worried about paint costs, dumping a couple hundred bucks into something won't make the paint costs go down. hell, a cheapo nelson clone can be had for $50, and the other $150+ that you might spend on machinists costs could be spent on more paint for you, and you won't damage a semi when you want to go up in ROF.
polishing: you want to polish all the areas where there are moving parts so that when they are moving against each other, there is less drag. polish the hammer, the inside where the hammer moves. you can also polish the trigger. that's about it.
rocket cock: i don't like them, personally. the noise is just the cocking slot being open and the movement of the blow back operation. what you can do, after polishing(which will lessen the noise) is to get some thin neoprene(about 2mm or 3mm) and cover the valve. you will have to cut out the valve stem, so the hammer is still hitting the valve and opening it, but the neoprene will cushion the bolt against the hammer, greatly reducing the noise of the shot.
the rest is just whatever you want. the center feed mod(i would send it in to get it done), the vert adapter, is all dependent on how you play with the gun. some people don't like centerfeeds, some do.
look at the various forums(Tippmann forum, PBN, MCB) and see how people have their guns setup and go from there.
size is the biggest thing. on a B2K with PDS, with a battery and noid in the tray, there is a second on/off and 5 more wires. the space in a tray becomes very cramped, not to mention if and when you get into the trayless T2 setups, like in the liquid X-mill from Debounce1. i have a line on some connectors that i'm going to try.