Jump to content


bonds2034

Member Since 11 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Feb 21 2013 01:47 PM
-----

Topics I've Started

the only 3 things to consider for a good barrel

12 February 2013 - 01:55 PM

i see alot of confusion over the internet about what barrel to choose. im here to provide some tips. dont get fustrated over all the barrels on the marker. most of them are just marketing ploys to get you to buy, lableing old tecnology as new and changing names of old equipment. there are only 3 things you need to consider when buying a new barrel

1. the bore size. i always recomend a barrel that has changable inserts or backs with differnt bore sizes. this will let you adjust for the size of the ball. this alone is the biggest factor when it comes to accuracy and effiency. most companies now are srinking the size of the balls to save on money, so where it might say its a 689 cal it might actually be a 679 cal and this small size differnce will acually make a big differnce in the ball flight path. remember the longer the control bore the better and more accurate your shot will be.

2. lenth. the length of the barrel makes no differnce when it comes to accuracy. well up to a point. i recomend a barrel between 12-14 in, anything longer accually puts more friction aginst the ball. this means you haft to use more air to put your ball at the 300fps mark. you paintball accelerates to its top speed between 10-12 inches. so by running a 12-14in barrel your ball has accelerated and is now in a control at the last couple of inches letting it reshape from an oval back into a ball so as it leaves the barrel there is even pressure around the ball.

3. smoothness of the bore. this has nothing to do with accuracy but its more about the efficency of the barrel. the slicker the barrel the less friction there is on the ball meaning you can use less air to push the ball at the set speed of 300fps. this will also provide you in a more consisten shot. the best materials are teflon, cermic brass is really good, and aluminum is good just not as good. alot of companies are now impregnating teflon in their barrels and i have tested a few of these and they are really good.

now lets clear up this whole carbon fiber misconception thats been going on. dont get me wrong carbon fiber is not bad. however i see people just going off and buying the bc they thing its better than their barrel. carbon fiber dose nothing when it comes to accuracy. it is no more accurate than say the j&j edge kit, or the powerlyte sceptor kit. i see so many people switching to them just because they are light. i watch their show and i see how unballenced their gun is. you want to keep your gun as balenced as you can. this will give you the best run and gun shot, the best snap shot and will be more comfortable when holding if your gun is balenced. one down side of the cf barrels are if you ever get a scratch in the barrel it CAN NOT BE REPAIRED.

one last thing that i see in arguments is rifleing of the barrel. rifling makes no differnce when it comes to paintball. you haft to remember that a paintball gun is not a real gun. bullets are hard and the sizes are the same from bullet to bullet. paintballs are soft and the size changes from alot of differnt factors. we did a test at my local feild in orlando florida and it proved this. we used a slow motion camra to study the rotation of the ball and noticed that it didnt rotate any differnt than a standard barrel. the barrel we used was the hammerhead mofo 14in with a .685 control shooting marbilizer. then we used a powerlyte sceptor kit with the same .685 control. rotation was the same between both shooting the same paint and using the same gun. a planet eclipse ego 10.


here is my list of some of the best barrels you can buy
1. powerlyte sceptor
2. ti longbow
3. j&j edge elite
4. ss freak barrel kit
5. deadly winds fibur with freak inserts

these are some of the best barrels on the market and i listed them as i would recomend them. the powerlyte if you can still find them are one of the best barrels when it comes to accuracy and and best bang for your buck. i hardly recomend the freak kit due to the fact that the inserts are held in with orings and i feel this is a bad design. the best way to go is to have one that the inserts either screw in like a choke. i hope this helps everyone. and if you will please lock this thread so it can be easily seen by the newer members. thanks for reading

ego sl8r macnoid mod

12 February 2013 - 12:08 PM

hello. i just rescued an ego sl8r off of ebay. its just a body and frame right now. no internals except for a cure 4 pooty mod bolt, the zick2 rammer, i just put a quick release valve and spring in it. i also have a redefined virtue board from my old ego 8 that i sold. my biggest question is about the noids, qev and board. im wanting to run a macnoid from an ego 11 but im not sure if it will mouont. any ideas. also will the virtue board be able to run the noid, im not sure of the power output on the coil but i think its 5v. also what would be a good qev to run on this. should i just make a mount plate to make it fit or will the gap be to much. thanks everyone. this should be an awsome build