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Member Since 24 Oct 2008
Offline Last Active Feb 09 2015 01:48 AM

Topics I've Started

Tampa Bay Damage is done.

23 January 2015 - 03:52 PM

"It is with a sad heart that I announce to you today the end of a legacy. World Cup 2014 was the last tournament ever played by Tampa Bay Damage. We want to thank our fans and our sponsors for their support over the last nine years. And we would like to thank everyone who has ever been a part of our family since our inception.



Dangerous Power Threshold APE Board Microswitch Squishyness

27 March 2014 - 12:11 AM

<!> Semi Lengthy Write-up Below <!>
For those of us that own APE Boards on our Thresholds we know that the orientation of the microswitch and fang is different than on traditional markers, causing a squishy feeling instead of a smooth crisp one when tripping it. This may be subjective to some, but most people I've seen talk about this APE board's microswitch agree with me.
Pictures posted below for better insight:
Traditional/Most Common Microswitch Orientation (G3 APE used as sample)
Threshold Microswitch Orientation
I wanted to know if there are any Threshold APE Board owners out there that have discovered a way to counter this squishy feeling from the microswitch trip/trigger pull.
Keep in mind the following:
• I have the v2 (latest) fang, which replaced the older fang where people complained it was too squishy, however the new one is still squishy.
• I have removed my trigger tension option (magnet, previously spring) to help the trigger pull feel better to the most miniscule avail.
• I have the stock Threshold Trigger and it is unmodified.
The only solutions I can think of are the following and some would void warranty:
• Modding the trigger
• Possibly changing the microswitch fang for an unorthodox one in order to counteract the squishyness (doubt this will work, not sure what kind of fang to look for
• Lowering the tension of the 80g microswitch (no idea how to do that, will obviously void warranty)
• Finding a way to replace the orientation of the microswitch, probably soldering a new one...
  • I know nothing of soldering
  • This would obviously void the warranty
  • Even if it were possible, the cylindrical portion of the board which sticks below the microswitch area would physically block the allowance of a traditional microswitch.
Every person i've seen complain about it usually just states it's the trade off for having more features. I have played with the same mentality but I'm looking for a solution as this is a problem when only semi is allowed- a situation which I find myself in 90% of the time. If there is no way to get rid of the squishy feeling i'll just play on with it.
If you have a solution or know of a simple trick or two to help at all, please post below. 

New Sig

26 February 2014 - 10:33 PM

Put some time aside and made a new sig for fun, a bit rushed but still fun to make nontheless. Think I had my old one on here since around 2009 without changing it.




Might schedule some time to make sigs for this site again. Let me know what you guys think.

Major Leak in Bob Long Closer / Cannot go below 300 FPS on HPR

21 February 2014 - 10:57 AM

The Setup:
- Stock Engine

- Lurker Spring

- 4C Eyes

- Pillow Bolt 

- Hatred Board

- CP Regulator



Marker History

Purchased from a very trustworthy seller who rebuilt the entire marker and lubed the marker appropriately (Bob Long recommended Dow55). He also had a Bob Long pressure tester kit on hand and had the LPR set to 67PSI. The gun was chrono'd to shoot 300FPS. 

The Problem:

Pristine condition Rebuilt Bob Long Closer chronoing at over 300 FPS. I dial down my HPR slightly (a quarter or half turn) to achieve field regulated FPS at around ~280 FPS. Once I do this, the marker still chronos over 300 and then starts to rapidly drop off and fire a bunch of paint on full auto (on it's own, while on semi) before stopping and having a major air leak to continues until I shut off the air source. This all occurs within a 1-2 second period. 


What I HAVE tried as a "QUICK FIX" / simple diagnostic solution:

- Raised dwell to 10 (Up from 7 that the seller fine tuned it at / Default 8)

- Raised ABS to 10 (Up from the 5 that the seller fine tuned it at / Default 10)
- Removed engine from the marker and inspected all outer O-Rings for slightest signs of wear (found none as seller re-built marker throughout before the sale)

- Tried brand new 9V batteries (Energizer and Duracell)

- Searched various paintball forums for a post describing a similar story as mine.



What I HAVEN'T tried:

- Adjusting the LPR in any way. (The seller had a BL pressure tester and left it at 67PSI, a decent setting considering the lurker spring)

- Disassembling the engine or any part of the marker

- Removed or re-lubed any part of the marker

My instincts tell me that when a marker stalls in this fashion it is because there is not enough air pressure getting to the bolt and that I should raise the LPR. However I do not wish to do so because of the following:


1. I do not have a pressure tester and do not know how to accurately dial up the LPR without one (especially because I don't want to blow the solenoid)

2. A pressure of 67PSI with a lurker spring sounds like a perfectly fine setting compared to some of the other LPR pressure settings + dwells I have seen people have in their marqs.

I hope that someone on here has an idea or a solution. I tried to write this up and provide as much information as I could and will provide more upon request. If anyone has come across a similar problem and could help me out that would be great, otherwise i'll have to send it in to BLAST. Also, if it is largely agreed upon that simply raising the LPR a bit will fix this I will give it an attempt without a pressure tester.





You could probably take a look at the HPR and the schrader valve in the HPR to see if it's fine or not.


I swapped the CP HPR into another one of my markers and it worked perfectly fine (Fired about 80 shots). Operating pressure on the marker gauge showed about 200PSI (Pairs up with the 300+ FPS Chrono readings of the Closer)

I do not believe the HPR is the problem. Makes me think the LPR may be too low even more.


Bob Long Closer Major Leak When Tuning Down HPR to 280ish

20 February 2014 - 05:06 PM

delete this; made a new thread with a less confusing title